Build Work In Progress aka: Badass

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Understandable. Then I would pull the motor and diagnose it. If it needs a cam I would check classifieds here for a used cam and see if you can get one for like 50 bucks or something if you need a cam. All the seals and gaskets I would go with aftermarket and do the best you can. Just ask us here what is good aftermarket stuff so you don't get junk. A cruiser can be fixed on a budget but it takes more labor.
NeverGiveUpYota said:
I’m really in no position to be doing half this stuff financially much less buying another engine.
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I’m not pulling the motor. Going to attempt this in situ but I do appreciate your input.
 
Welp hopefully this won’t become a fancy wall hanging in the garage. $55 start to finish.
Pulled the battery and tray and emptied the rad already.

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@Godwin, found this thread you wrote back in ‘10. What size jack were you using to tip up the engine?
Pulling camshaft from 2F
 
NeverGiveUpYota said:
@Godwin, found this thread you wrote back in ‘10. What size jack were you using to tip up the engine?
Pulling camshaft from 2F
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Large enough :lol:. I don't remember exactly. It may have been a 2 ton bottle jack or the OEM jack. I may have used the OEM because it's not going to loose pressure if left overnight, but the motor mounts would have been in place to support the engine. I may have used the bottle jack for a higher reach. Either way I likely stacked boards to raise the jack to easily lift the engine.
 
Here I go again... bagging all the screws as I go by system. All are ugly. Dump them in WD40 and be sure to antiseize the crap out of them?
Put in an order w/ @cruiseroutfit for the side cover gasket, timing cover gasket, timing plate gasket (not planning on pulling it but just incase), an oil seal and a new tube of FIPG.

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Do you need some zddp if you end up needing to replace the cam for a cam break in. I’ve been putting it in mine ever since I rebuilt the emgine
 
I wasn’t really grasping what had happened here. Now I do: The shiny outer part is the outside of the bearing that has worked its way 1/4-1/3 the way out of the block. What I thought was a gouge is actually the edge of the bearing oil hole being seen as it’s coming out. This hole normally lines up with the oil hole in the block for oiling the bearings and circulating the oil they the engine I think. The metal bit is either from the bearing itself or something that migrated down the oil galley. It’s on the bottom of the bearing which means it didn’t float to that position. And it’s stuck there according to what Felicity said.

My experience is very limited but it’s obvious now that the block where the bearing sits need to be checked for scoring - how much is okay? Someone once told me if you run your finger nail over it and can feel a small gouge that is greater than > 5 mils. Not very accurate but gives some idea. Same for the cam. Also get an accurate reading of diameters where the bearing sits on the cam and in the block. Make sure that is within spec.

Will it be hard to measure the diameter in the block with it in the truck? I’d definitely try and see if it’s a problem. It might be obviously still good or obviously bad. Also, the linked cam thread shows them removing the cam plug when replacing the bearings. Can that be reached for removal and replacement?

Hit up the guys or gals that know how to clean any remaining bits of metal IF bits came thru the oil passages. If it’s just bearing bits that broke away that would be better I think. Is there a cleaning method (when the cam is out) that will give some confidence that the metal won’t cause the same issue. Could some diesel fuel or just air be forced thru the oil passages, and would something like that be adequate for cleaning or would that potentially make it worse?
 
Well I’ve got her down to this. Friend came by and feels really okay that I can do this in the truck... so here she’ll sit while I do some more reading and man up. He had to take off but was ready to help pull it until I decided to slow down.

Strangely the cam bolts are not lined up w/ the access holes when at exact TDC. This has me a tad nervous or perplexed.

And my crank shaft keyway fix did not hold. Key is a tad buggered, not a lot but enough that I’ll need to buy new. He guided me in describing how to repair the s***ty keyslot in the shaft w/ my welder.

To be continued....

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Friend also suggested that now is a definite time to replace my oil pump. He feels it’s loaded w/ debris and would be too risky to not replace.
Who’s got a pump for me? I’ll send you cookies or fresh picked cherry tarts! Messy but holy amazingly yummy!

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I've got a good used oil pump from my '89 FJ62 3FE you can have for the cost of shipping (15100-61011). It's the same part number as 11/84-8/87 FJ60 2Fs. The machine shop replaced it when I had the 3FE rebuilt, but Cdan said that's the last part to wear out because it always has oil. The FJ62 was running well and had about 165,000 miles when pulled for the rebuild, so the pump should be good. Let me know and I can send it along.
 
At @4Cruisers, I would love that. So you agree that I ought to replace? Seems crazy to me that the metal in my bearing is from the pump... it’s a big enough looking chunk and located literally almost next to the 3rd bearing that it would seem when the fuel pump arm broke it simply shot over to it but that was over a year ago... that’s where I’m scratching my head.
 
Chuckling to myself... wouldn’t have been too funny if we’d started pulling the shaft and had a lifter and it’s rod drop to the ground. Glad I had the wits to stop and regroup.
 
mwebfj60 said:
Man I missed a lot the last month or so. There’s not a whole lot to the oil pump and it comes apart pretty easily to inspect. Good luck!
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Agreed! Too much gallivanting out in the mountains w/ your kid! Ha! Photos on fb have been awesome.
 
Have you tried a magnet on any of the bits? The fuel pump is 100% steel. I'm not sure if the F bearings have some steel but they for sure will have layers. If you have any of the stuff left from the oil pan maybe clean it up and take a look? To help with the puzzle.
 
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