Builds Work In Progress aka: Badass (21 Viewers)

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Carb reinstall: And full corrected desmog (lines you see here on the carb are all now new and arranged different). I picked up a bunch of parts from the dealership a tad cheaper than online and thus began that crazy headache. Shown is the list I bought tho a few things I did not end up needing but its what it is. Dealership was able to hook me up for about $30 cheaper overall.

 

[rrv333]

I've replaced the hoses on my 62 and on my 40. The hoses are PITA for sure

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

My girl was getting a full facelift. And from the looks of the pixs it was about time.

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I wanted to add a comment here off this ugly mofo pix of the front of the block... I took alot of time and very cautiously scraped all that grime and excess gasket sealer and whatever else off there so it would have a clean face. I even took the time to file down a piece of clean maple I had left over from a bench I rebuilt. Seemed that everything I read lead me to a wood scraper over plastic to avoid marring the surface.

 

[CaptClose]

Absolutely BRILLIANT work on that keyway Felicity! Speechless. Really.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Absolutely BRILLIANT work on that keyway Felicity! Speechless. Really.

Thanks Ryan....

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Desmog: So to get her desmoged the right way I leaned on the 24pg Desmog PDF written May 01, 2011, version 2. I also got the assistance of a few guys here as well. I picked up some of the parts I was missing from my local dealership... some I ended up not even utilizing (a violet bvsv) and so far I have yet to hook up the driver side vcv. Like her name... she is still a work in progress. Prior to me her desmog was highly molested and she lacked all the valves ect, hoses were just hooked here and there and much was simply plugged on the carb. She did run fairly solidly.. and laughing, since then, I have had my share of "problems."
I did attempt to draw out the systems w/ blue lines to the corresponding systems that needed to be hooked together and it ended up just being a mess of blue and gray pencil. Ryan, the lovely kiss ass that he is told me it could be helpful to others, but I just see it as a bunch of confusion.

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Idle Mixture Screw: Not a big thing but recently I got the smarts to color one 1/4 edge of the screw with sharpie so I can eyeball it better about knowing how many turns I have given it in messing with my carb settings.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

My PCV valve was an ugly mess. I took the suggestion from a fellow mud guy and simply pulled it and spray it out with brake cleaner. It was so blocked the valve didn't even move inside. Once I got her all sprayed out I was then able to see, hear and feel the valve slide back and forth up and down. It had sludge inside it not much different from the bright rusty brown dirt in my basement. (I have wicked high iron content in my water when its not conditioned, 24ppb (parts per billion) which is HUGE). I did not pull and replace the grommet as it feels tight and not brittle.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

All the while I was putzing with this and that I was also cleaning up housings and such and throwing paint on them.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Charcoal Canister Gut and Refill: In between trying to understand the desmog stuff and what I need and what I don't need I pulled my charcoal canister... As you can see in the diagram from the FSM, my purge line is not hooked up so swapping lines didn't seem like the wisest idea for fixing the big gas cap whoosh. One of the hoses on the top was entirely degraded and as you can see in the second pix was totally useless. I picked up a section of 90* hose at Napa and cut it to fit. I used my dremel and chopped the canister in half. I refilled it with aquarium charcoal (all I could get my hands on was the pelleted type of substrate) and replaced the fiber filters top and bottom with the basic cut to fit material from the fish store. I made a lip on the inner edge of one half with jb putty (Quick Steel) so the other half would fit against it. I let it dry for a day and fit it back together... I used a piece of thick plastic (dog food bag) to hold the pellets in one half while I flipped the other half on top and then slide the plastic out. I lost some but its filled the best I could. I then added another layer of jb putty to the outer rim. I added a coat of black paint and no more whoosh from the gas cap.

IF I was to do this again I would cut much closer to top or bottom so the sealing of the canister was easier.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Carburetor Cooling Fan: I then pulled my carb cooling fan and figured I 'd give it a shot to cleaning it out and seeing if I could revive it from its sleep.

Ground Carb Cooling Fan Wire: Initially I grounded the broken wire that was hanging free from the two ICS wires to the closest section of bracket (first pix), its the green wire and I added a ring and still got nothing.

Once I pulled the fan which is a bitch job... the bracket to the hood prevents one screw from being able to be backed out fully. I ended up pulling the bolts to the hood bracket and had a few seconds of an MI as the hood leaned quite a lot of weight on my head... I held it though and got the friggen carb cooling fan bolt out and the hood bolt back in. I tell you the strength I have is amazing when combined with adrenaline.
Lots of material left on the brushes. But quite a lot of wear on the edges of the magnets... (totally not right verbiage here).
I used the suggestion of someone here on mud to tie the brushes in place with dental floss and once housing is back over the mechanism, simply cut and pull the floss out. Worked like a charm. Sorry, thought I had pix. Hands were probably too busy, its not a easy task.
It still does not work but could be a wiring issue as someone at one time did some funky hacks inside the kick panel and relay area.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Then I did the green wire mod per @Landpimps suggestion I simply made a jumper and grounded the other side to the carb. I have since swapped out the ICS for a new one via someone... forgive me., I'll find the invoice in my stack and add it here. It was less than $10. Mine clicked as it should but I still felt apprehensive of it being that it was possibly the original one that I had taken off my carb and added to the rebuilt one.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Snowy morning pix here in CT.

 

[MANUCHAO]

I suggest this thread goes up on the sticky section.....great job you are doing at compiling all the info in one thread..
Sooooo much wealth of information in here......!!
Felicity, you and all those MUD members that keep these rigs running on the road with all its OE are one rare breed.....

Props to you eh.....!!

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

I suggest this thread goes up on the sticky section.....great job you are doing at compiling all the info in one thread..
Sooooo much wealth of information in here......!!
Felicity, you and all those MUD members that keep these rigs running on the road with all its OE are one rare breed.....

Props to you eh.....!!

Thanks! That is really nice of you to say.... I'm far from many here tho. And honestly I only found all of it here on mud tho quite scattered. Thankfully I have great recall and once I read something I log the info in or the name and can often get right back to it.
I do have many many more pics too that if anyone needs, just ask. I chose to keep my pics light so I wouldn't clog up the thread.
Your props are much appreciated.
This is the most involved I've ever gotten in anything like this. I am very much a novice just learning as I go. Sometime fxxxing s*** up too but in the mistakes there is still opportunities for learning.
Like I call her, I am a Work In Progress as well.
Felicity

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

My son is just over 3.5yo and is officially really into snow play now. We built a snowman and I threw some of my Yankee Toys club garb on him today... @chill will, @rain76king, @Krazyfj. I say that snowman needs to go get my 60's carb settings dialed in asap.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

After my carb reinstall I was having tons of trouble with my choke. I'd pull it and it just didn't feel right. I adjusted it pulled out by the crimp on the carb but still it was off. I ended up ordering a new cable as mine was crazy brittle, stiff and missing sections of the insulating sheath so I figured that was what the issue was.

I ordered a new Choke Cable from Cool Cruisers, p/n 98310-70A04 $79.70 and got myself a dirty girly poster too. I really do think you guys need to get on this for us lady cruiser owners... hint, hink @orangefj45, Georg... come'on!!

So I got the cable in and still nothing doing it just wouldn't hook up nice and easy. I could pull the knob with it not attached to the bracket but as soon as I attached it, it wouldn't pull. I knew it was hanging up somehow so thankfully I was able to pull my old carb out of the box I had it wrapped up in to go back to Georg and took the bracket off it. I pulled the one off the rebuilt carb and low and behold there was a huge difference in the bends! I'll add a pix of the bad one but failed to hold both good and bad next to each other. *** Pix added, red arrow points at extra bends that should not be on bracket. So if your having tons of trouble with your choke and its ability to be pulled nice and easy; look at the bracket itself because there is a correct way it should be bent.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

As I got all this figured out I noticed tons of fluid from my weep hole on my fuel pump. Thing was spitting a constant stream. I know right away the diaphragm was junk and pulled it. I had a aftermarket (yes, gasp!) pump I had picked up from Rockauto and figured I'd swap it right away. The spacer was in great shape and stuck on tight. It wasn't brittle or worn so I let it be. I hooked up the pump but was surprised that it didn't go in easy. I had to use the bolts to pull it in... First indication that I should have picked up on... most likely not the right pump for the year my truck came off the assembly line.
It was all good for the weekend and the truck ran good to and from work both Sat and Sun but both nights I had funky issues with my tach on start up after 11pm, both cold nights in the 30's. My gauge was reading 3k even tho I knew she wasn't at that rpm. I contacted a mud guy and he suggested I put a light on her and see what her rpms were.
The timing light I bought tho was only an inductive one... (pretty much crap) and I did not understand this until I got it on the truck. I could not understand, yea yea in all honestly here!, why I wasn't getting a read out on the screen until it hit me it was only a light and nothing more.
Regardless I had previously pulled my flywheel cover the day before and painted my BB and TDC with whiteout so I figured I could at least attempt to do my timing in the driveway.
It was then that I had some funky droning noises as I stood near the drivers side fender (I'd put the light down before this) and as I walked toward the passenger side I started to hear what I thought to be an electrical crackling. I shut the truck off and stood trying to get my ground on what just happened.
I wrote up a post and folks started to comment... My embarrassing thread here: Previously ran, used cheap end inductive timing gun and now won't run...

In the end it was the after market fuel pump. I knew looking at the one I pulled and the new one in my hands that the shape of the arm was a hair different as I was about to install it but I ignored my gut. After charging the battery which was a tad low and still not getting her to fire I figured out I wasn't getting fuel to the carb. I pulled the feed line from the pump and put it in a bottle and tried to fire her up and got nothing so that told me the pump was bad. When I pulled it my heart seized. The actuator arm was literally missing almost half of it. I stuck my finger in the housing and could easily feel the cam lobe which thankfully felt smooth and not marred. I read many threads of this exact thing happening to folks so I don't feel too much like an ass. Its what it is. The chunk of arm is down in the first baffle most likely in my oil pan. I could fish it out and up the side of the block with a magnet but being where it "most likely" is I'm going to leave it for when I pull my pan this spring for the new used pan I have in the garage.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Then I wasted some money, I love doing this... and picked up an electrical posi-flow pump (4-7psi) and wired it into the charcoal canister solenoid. That all went fine. I used my multi-meter with skilz man... I actually called Jim @Cruiser Jimmy just to help me verify I was on board with the meter readings (first pix). I bought a GM fuel housing bracket (whatever its called) and cut it to the right size with my dremel and filed down the edges (second pix even tho its really not pertinent now). (Mind you, I do lots of this while my kid is napping. I have multitasking down to perfection). And installed with with FIPG (toyota fit in place gasket) sealer front and backof a new gasket I had leftover.
Unfortunately the pump flooded my carb tons and even with a return fuel line I added after the fact, I was unable to get the level correct. Ripped was this chick seeing as she had plans to get to a local club members house that day to have him help me do a valve adjustment. I cancelled as I couldn't even limp her there since the fuel level was too wrong and when I tried to slow down to a stop or downshift she'd stall out.

Then I got pissed and immediately ordered the right Kyosan pump from Cruiser Outfitters, @cruiseroutfit and was relieved to have Brice (I think) ask me the year my truck came off the line... June '86. This is when it hit me that the aftermarket pump was probably correct for the "87 but since mine was really an '86 the shape and size of things varies just enough. (like oil pans... big difference in the plug size from '86 to '87. Be wary of this!)

Finally I got it in and was back to the right level in the carb.
Money obviously grows on trees in my house.

 

[Spike Strip]

Fuel pump may have been aftermarket, but was it a reboxed Kyosan ? Kyosan is the OEM which made the pump for Toyota and is sold in lots of different ways. Toyo part # is 23100-61070 81-87 FJ60. (Kyosan TP-636) The insulater is different, cutoff being 10/84, but if they one on the truck is ok, then stick with it. Use a little sealant, though.

Difficult to tell from your pic if that's a Kyosan pump.



As for Beefcake for calendars / posters, maybe you should start hanging around Firetrucks.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Figure I'll add some fun for a little break from all my screwing around with this and that cuz the truck really isn't my primary concern (tho I tend to wonder at times)....
My son digs his black gator with its modified rear tires that I added bike tread to... Kid can climb over anything. He could probably keep up at a wheeling event. And we have been adding excess Yota stickers as I get them. He calls its his "Toyota."
And tho he still sleeps with me most of the time, I made him his own LC bedrail (and yes, I made the pallet bed platform too). So far its still plain wood as you can see.