Builds Work In Progress aka: Badass (21 Viewers)

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This is way more fun getting all this together chronologically than getting on facebook these days. Too much political bull**** mumbo jumbo. So done with all of it. Just let me stick my head in my trucks needs and forget about most everything else.
 
At my desk, yes I did the carb rebuild indoors next to my desktop computer so I could pause and play Pinheads videos on Youtube over and over. Again, being single has its perks.
I had some corrosion inside the fuel bowl and tried to set up a baking soda blaster. I picked up a (POS) pancake compressor at HF and set it up. It only worked for seconds at a time. It worked but not well enough. Carb is as good as its gonna get. Found the baking soda blaster info here on mud and on youtube as well as Rob @landcrusher909 gave me the tip initially.
I had the great opportunity to get a visit from @Cruiser Jimmy around this time... I did sit on the rebuild for a quite a while, over a month I think. anxiety, ect got the best of me. Jim was cool and hung out for a few hours with me and my son. He enjoyed the birds and I sent him off with a full belly the day before he took off for Germany. Thanks so much to mud and the great folks I have come to meet via text, email, facetime, ect. W/o you I'd be a quivering pile of fear. ;)
And then I pulled everything off the front end of the truck down to the crank nose.... Yup. All on my ownself.

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Kids make the funniest faces huh? ^^^ And yeah, my basil clearly had been forgotten to be watered.
That is that damn bird that hatched during my electrical bull... He's now huge and very copper colored.
 
I had that tell tale spike in temp and fuel one night driving home with my son prior to the carb removal. I did the silly person thing and just ordered all new radiator, WP, FC, timing cover gasket, front crank seal, whatever else... and pulled it all before stepping back and reading.
Then I read and I did do the clean up of the fuel gauge connection too BUT I had already bought the parts and they were on the way... so hey, that's what you do when you have a pile of money from an insurance payout. Buy parts!
 
I think the spike was the evening of this pix... I so wish that was my bike. I totally took a ton of pixs and stood as far back as possible so I wouldn't be that much more inclined to sit on the amazing leather seat. Belt driven! Friggen awesome.

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Nice work.

Yes, I noticed the poor basil plant; Your spaghetti sauce will thank you if it survived the winter.

Did you get a new ICS?

And it NEVER hurts to replace all those cooling system parts. If yours were original, it's money well-spent. At some point, you may want to install a mechanical temp gauge as the stock one just isn't very good.

While you've got the gauge cluster out, check the condition of the brown GROUND connector block.
 
Nice work.

Yes, I noticed the poor basil plant; Your spaghetti sauce will thank you if it survived the winter.

Did you get a new ICS?

And it NEVER hurts to replace all those cooling system parts. If yours were original, it's money well-spent. At some point, you may want to install a mechanical temp gauge as the stock one just isn't very good.

While you've got the gauge cluster out, check the condition of the brown GROUND connector block.
I did put a new ICS in just recently. And yes as I continue to go chronologically you'll see that I have basically replaced all the cooling hoses thus far.
I will check that brown wire too. Thanks for the tip.
 
Cluster was open ages ago but it's easy enough to pop open again.
 
Wish I could do spaghetti sauce but my gut isn't too happy w/ it. My water stinks here, it's conditioned w/ salt so I tend to try to collect rain water for my small potted plants. I can switch off the system but it's a pain to go down the bulkhead to do it. Plants aren't on the top of the priority list anymore.
 
Plants. Chotcha.

By the ground connector I mean this, behind the cluster (as posted by Output Shaft)

Odd electrical behavior
 
Interesting read, thanks. Feel like I saw the brown connector and it appeared all good but I can check it again. Tho I'll check my photos first too as I have a few more from that tear down.
 
Adding this photo of the area the contact needs scuffing with emory cloth. I simply used a section of fine sandpaper and called it done.

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So regarding the carb rebuild of which I have many more pictures I can add if someone is seeking any... I was thinking about what of it stumped me.
I found that a little metal plunger (shown in the first pix that is flat and has three groves cut to its sides) is supposed to have a spring under it, did not. Sorry I am flaking on the name of it. Jim @FJ40Jim, could ID it instantly. It has a tiny port that juts out inside the upper horn (?) and through it I stuck an opened up staple and was able to push up on the inside underside of the plunger and popped it out. The second pix is of it and the ball that resides under it and the spring. My rebuild did not have the spring... Another part I had to hijack off my own carb once I removed it from the truck. There were a few things... I kept a list as I tore the carb down.
Third pix is of the spring I took from my own carb for the plunger.

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Once I had my carb off and sitting on my desk next to the rebuilt one and began putting the sections back together after taking and adding. I looked on SOR since they have great photos of carbs from all years. I found mine and began comparing my linkages and how they needed to be attached. Some I had completely taken off both ends so was at a loss. (Pinhead recommends leaving one end attached on all linkages). I found one specific one for my throttle on my trucks carb different from the SOR photos. I took a pix of it and then one of the SOR photo and then took one of the carb I rebuilt. I circled the linkage in question and sent the photos to Jim via email and he responded within minutes which was the correct way it needed to be aligned. Interestingly enough my carb off my truck was wrong.
 
I'll add a photo here of how my carb insulator gasket looked once I pulled my carb.... Red and Blue RTV. This was not me. From what I have been told and have now read, RTV is never to be used in this area. It will shrink and cause gaps and most definitely become a vacuum leak. Also my insulator plate was missing a section. @CaptClose was kind enough to hook me up with his which was cracked but I more than willing to simply mend with JB and toss it on. Ryan painted the under side first for me (his pix in the background). The upperside is where the fibery materiel was best able to be noted. I have seen a few folks here call it plastic. Its not. Its definitely a metal insulation embedded thick thing (it almost looks like a fiberglass sort of material). Where it was broken and I added JB, it had fibers visible.

While I putzed over the carb for way too many weeks I started to pull all sorts of other parts as well and gave my son's black gator a new grill for a little while. Looked good.

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I cleaned up my valve cover and gave it a coat of paint. I wanted to add some red to it with my son but every time I thought about it my control issues came full tilt. Mine! Yeegads! Later once I did reinstall it I did add some red but I had some weird paint issues so its not as I would have liked but its fine for now. I did replace my gasket as well. Tapped it in place with my great grandfathers hammer, flipped the cover over and put it back in its place. Engine is looking quite a lot different from last year when I took her on.
In the last pix you can see the JB putty on the insulator where it was cracked. I did not paint the upperside of the plate as the material appeared to be something that should not be coated with paint.

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When I replaced my carb I did use two gaskets from possibly cruiser outfitters, I'll find it and add it and the P/N here as soon as I come across them. One was a pink plenum material with an oval hole and the other was blue with two round holes. One (pink) went under the black thick insulator that is part of the plate and the other (blue) went on top. I was under the idea I needed these but since then have read conflicting info. If the black thick insulator is in good shape and w/o any gaps or marrs you do not need either extra gaskets. For now I will leave them in place. But was glad to spot the recent info that I actually do not need them. No RTV was used for reinstall.
 
I leaned on my phone and text much for the tear down of my radiator, FC and WP. In doing this I also found that I needed to pull my battery and its tray. As well as shifting out my AC condenser as much as I could. Later I chose to simply pull all the AC parts. CT gets hot... at most three days in a stretch so having it in really just was a waste of time for me. I have promised some of the parts already to certain folks but speak up if your need something I might have. Looking further back at the valves opened without the cover in the first pix... you can see I added a layer of press and seal over top to keep out as much dust as I could.
I also removed the top center section of the metal frame.
As a nurse I have access to bandages, gauze, ect... I made use of the envelopes from gauze pads I used to stuff in the holes of the valve cover while I painted it and labeled each for all the bolts.
My radiator looked like it had seen enough time in the truck. And I discovered why one side of it was slightly tipped inward. Someone inadvertantly left two rubber gaskets on one side at some point so obviously this was not the stock radiator.

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