NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
- Thread starter
- #941
Both breathers totally blocked. Off and in a cup of brake cleaner now. Thanks all for the guidance!
Builds Work In Progress aka: Badass (6 Viewers)
- Thread starter NeverGiveUpYota
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Yeah I'm still feeling the pain of the rear breather on my Taco corroding shut. Forced axle oil out the seal in the middle of a camping trip trashing the rear brakes.
When you get time you may want to run a new longer hose, put a lawn mower 1/4" inlet fuel filter on the end to keep spiders out, and then tuck it inside the inner fender in the engine compartment. That way it can't corrode shut and it's up higher than stock in case you see deep water.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Yes-this is the move to make. The factory breathers with the flapper valve is a stupid design. I run all of mine into the engine compartment. Then attach high and tight to the firewall. This gets you max fording depth and no restrictions when it inevitably corrodes closed again.
That snow run looks fun-takes me back to childhood growing up in upstate NY. We had a long slope at the local school yard. Cardboard, inner tubes, sleds with metal runners. Piles of cheap fun in the winter.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
- Thread starter
- #944
I was just saying I understand now about a tiny fuel filter I was suggested to add to the tcase breather. I have a carb rebuild kit for my chainsaw and it came w/ a couple tiny filters. Took till I saw them to be able to envision something in place of the breather cap.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Use 1/4 fuel line topped by something like this:
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
- Thread starter
- #946
Yup and found this as well.
Differential breather extensions ?
Differential breather extensions ?
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
- Thread starter
- #947
But what about the open end?Use 1/4 fuel line topped by something like this:
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
You want it open. Its a breather and there to equalize pressure. The filter keeps it from ingesting any grit or dust.
On my 60, which sees the most water crossings, i put another hose on the open end just to direct it into the fender. I peak at the fiters every day to look for water or gear oil. And BTW, if you're running ARBs, you will eventually find gear oil in the filter! I had the inner bonded seal on mine fail 2 years ago and in just a few minutes of use, it blew enough gear oil into the engine compartment, I had a "stinker" the rest of the trip.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Nice. Water AND grease contaminated.
Lock your front hubs and drive 10 miles 3 Times. Then drain and refill. Do this until it’s clean in there.
Lock your front hubs and drive 10 miles 3 Times. Then drain and refill. Do this until it’s clean in there.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
- Thread starter
- #951
Interesting technique. Boy you guys are full of all sorts of stuff today.
Drain and refill EACH time after 10 miles?
How bought I just get the knuckles done sooner and open up that cover to clean it out more thoroughly?
Drain and refill EACH time after 10 miles?
How bought I just get the knuckles done sooner and open up that cover to clean it out more thoroughly?
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Ha-No. 3 times, then drain and refill. Just helps to clean out the nasty mess that's inside there!
But the point is, you want to warm and circulate the gear oil, let it dissolve the mess, then drain and refill. I keep a 5 gallon bucket of the AutoZone gear oil for just this chore. That way I don't feel bad about the expense of tossing a fill or 2 of gear oil.
Once it's clean, I like the "DeloGear" gear oil from Chevron.
But the point is, you want to warm and circulate the gear oil, let it dissolve the mess, then drain and refill. I keep a 5 gallon bucket of the AutoZone gear oil for just this chore. That way I don't feel bad about the expense of tossing a fill or 2 of gear oil.
Once it's clean, I like the "DeloGear" gear oil from Chevron.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
- Thread starter
- #953
Ok thanks. So I’m heading an hour one way Sat for wheeling. How shall I calculate that into the cleanse?
Circulating the oil 3 times then draining it is good advice. City driving with lots of turns will help slosh oil outward toward the wheels and help pull the thick grease/oil back to the pumpkin. However, until you do your knuckles and replace the failed inner axle seal, it won't really clear up, at least not for long, because the birf grease will keep contaminating it. Warm weather helps in getting the oil to clean the housing. In CT this year, that might be a month or more. I might suggest running it until for a while and see how it looks when you drain it for the knuckles.
There isn't an inspection cover on the front axle housing, nor on FF rears.
Keep up the good work and steady progress, F.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Sounds perfect. Drain and refill when you get home (while the oil is still warm, it drains faster and more completely).
Good luck!
DickM
SILVER Star
For me, this is one of those stupid simple mods that gives you a huge reward in peace of mind. This and Marlin inner axle seals and you are good to go.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
- Thread starter
- #957
Quick little joyride in some unmarked snow (other than a set of footprints) at the Salmon River in East Hampton, CT. Hubs locked, H4 and L4 both work well.
Lookin good dude
Wouldn't that be dudette? Looks good
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
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- #960
^^^ yes!
