I did the shift kit on 'truck' and think if I had it a part again I'd step it up one more. Going to twist the knob and see what that does though first.
Wits End Turbo Owners (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter spyduh
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Following... I have the kit here but haven't opened the tranny yet - winter project.
I am waiting for my turbo but did the shift kit last summer. Definitely noticeable improvement.
Cannot say 100% for sure, but these took care of my knock sensor CEL. $45 each.
Failed Emissions - High NOX - Colorado
Got the new knock sensors put in. I ripped the wire off of the front sensor trying to get the connector off. Then, I barely touched the thing and it all started to crumble (inside trying to remove pin). I finally get the pin out and solder the wire to it. probably not the best, but I went...
forum.ih8mud.com
I did the “Hot Rod” setup with my shift kit and am happy with it and the turbo. Not sure how harsh the shifts would be without a turbo though.
dang - i took some time off mud and a whole lot of PCV conversations happened.
I ditched my catch can and so far it seems like the oil buildup has reduced quite a bit.
I'm really interested to hear if anyone caps the stock port and does both into the intake tract and how it goes.
This is definitely an issue we will all experience from what i can tell so far so would be cool to come up with a definitive solution to take care of it.
I ditched my catch can and so far it seems like the oil buildup has reduced quite a bit.
I'm really interested to hear if anyone caps the stock port and does both into the intake tract and how it goes.
This is definitely an issue we will all experience from what i can tell so far so would be cool to come up with a definitive solution to take care of it.
Also note, Scott is running more power than our setups.
CJK
SILVER Star
@Wompom - I used the configuration from
Turbo instructions but with catch cans on each line.
I think it is simple but suboptimal to route this way because the flow to manifold is blocked anytime the manifold is under boost.
Overall, I think putting catch cans on both lines is an Acceptable workaround and best solution.
Turbo instructions but with catch cans on each line.
I think it is simple but suboptimal to route this way because the flow to manifold is blocked anytime the manifold is under boost.
Overall, I think putting catch cans on both lines is an Acceptable workaround and best solution.
CJK
SILVER Star
tldr - I said "suboptimal" but was only considering from the lens of (1) de-cluttering the engine bay and (2) simplifying PCV system. I think adding catch cans to both lines is a good solution that is simple to do.
Long Version:
Consider the following image from 1FZ-FE Emission Control Manual:
Both the breather and PCV Valve are used to evacuate "blow-by gas" into combustion chamber for secondary burn and reduced hydrocarbons emission. In addition, the breather serves to allow fresh air into the engine.
In the stock system, the PCV Valve functions like this:
- During Normal operation, manifold vacuum is moderate --> PCV valve open but partially restricted
- During Idle/Deceleration, manifold vacuum is highest --> PCV valve open but mostly restricted
- During high load/WOT, manifold vacuum is minimal --> the PCV value is fully open = most flow.
- Excess pressure will be equalized via Breather hose and the system *should* operate at a slight vacuum to prevent blowing out seals in crankcase.
When we began worshippers of Snail The God of Power, we changed the mechanics of the system and the parameters (pressure, volumes, velocities) upon which it was designed.
With the introduction of forced induction (FI), we've changed the intake manifold from experiencing moderate vacuum at normal operation to experiencing low vacuum/low boost (thus causing the PCV valve to operate similar to high load situations = low blow-by flow = blow-by evacs via breather and into turbo). At FI High Load, the PCV Valve operates the same as the "Engine not running or Backfiring condition" which pushes the PCV Valve closed and forced blow-by gases to evac via breather (into turbo)
At idle/deceleration, I measure -11 to -9 PSI.
At Normal operation, I'm cruising in the band of -3psi to +1 PSI
At WOT, I hit +7.4 PSI today to accelerate from 15 to 75 on short freeway entrance (which was ****ing awesome!)
In conclusion, with the intro of FI, the PCV Valve opens less and thus a larger proportion of blow-by gases are routed through the breather and into the Turbo. Adding catch cans to both the breather hose and PCV hose helps capture blow-by gases before it is routed into the compressor and/or intake.
Addition of dual catch can setup effect on the following characteristics:
Some helpful info here:
Long Version:
Consider the following image from 1FZ-FE Emission Control Manual:
Both the breather and PCV Valve are used to evacuate "blow-by gas" into combustion chamber for secondary burn and reduced hydrocarbons emission. In addition, the breather serves to allow fresh air into the engine.
In the stock system, the PCV Valve functions like this:
- During Normal operation, manifold vacuum is moderate --> PCV valve open but partially restricted
- During Idle/Deceleration, manifold vacuum is highest --> PCV valve open but mostly restricted
- During high load/WOT, manifold vacuum is minimal --> the PCV value is fully open = most flow.
- Excess pressure will be equalized via Breather hose and the system *should* operate at a slight vacuum to prevent blowing out seals in crankcase.
When we began worshippers of Snail The God of Power, we changed the mechanics of the system and the parameters (pressure, volumes, velocities) upon which it was designed.
With the introduction of forced induction (FI), we've changed the intake manifold from experiencing moderate vacuum at normal operation to experiencing low vacuum/low boost (thus causing the PCV valve to operate similar to high load situations = low blow-by flow = blow-by evacs via breather and into turbo). At FI High Load, the PCV Valve operates the same as the "Engine not running or Backfiring condition" which pushes the PCV Valve closed and forced blow-by gases to evac via breather (into turbo)
At idle/deceleration, I measure -11 to -9 PSI.
At Normal operation, I'm cruising in the band of -3psi to +1 PSI
At WOT, I hit +7.4 PSI today to accelerate from 15 to 75 on short freeway entrance (which was ****ing awesome!)
In conclusion, with the intro of FI, the PCV Valve opens less and thus a larger proportion of blow-by gases are routed through the breather and into the Turbo. Adding catch cans to both the breather hose and PCV hose helps capture blow-by gases before it is routed into the compressor and/or intake.
Addition of dual catch can setup effect on the following characteristics:
- De-clutters the engine bay - No
- Simplifies crank case ventilation system - No
- Helps remove more oil from the air - Yes
- Help evacuate the crank case - No change
- Maintains or improves the stock flow capacity - No change
- Helps promote ring seal and prevent blow-by - No change
- Helps prevent oil smoke in exhaust - No change
- Helps prevent dip stick from popping out - No change
- Helps prevent oil leaks due to pressure - No change
- Helps keep intake track clean including throttle body - Yes
- Helps keep intake manifold/plenum clean - Yes
- Maintains or reduces amount of pollutants - Yes
- Maintains prevention of un-metered air from entering the intake - Yes
Some helpful info here:
Crank Case Evacuation on Daily Driver - LS1TECH - Camaro and Firebird Forum Discussion
Forced Induction - Crank Case Evacuation on Daily Driver - Is anyone running a crank case to exhaust evac system similar to this on a daily driver? If so how is it working? Are there any negatives? http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/52210/10002/-1?parentProductId=924093 Thanks, Pat
ls1tech.com
Toyo Boyo
SILVER Star
At FI High Load, the PCV Valve operates the same as the "Engine not running or Backfiring condition" which pushes the PCV Valve closed and forced blow-by gases to evac via breather (into turbo)
If, at high loads, this is what happens to the PCV system, where is the filtered fresh air coming from (in this particular scenario) that would otherwise be supplied by the breather hose?
Should there be an additional means of supplying fresh air (into the crank) to compensate?
I’m thinking this could be an issue during prolonged boost, say a long uphill drag?
If, at high loads, this is what happens to the PCV system, where is the filtered fresh air coming from (in this particular scenario) that would otherwise be supplied by the breather hose?
Should there be an additional means of supplying fresh air (into the crank) to compensate?
I’m thinking this could be an issue during prolonged boost, say a long uphill drag?
CJK
SILVER Star
Unless I'm overlooking something, there is no other source of air into the crankcase when PCV is blocked and breather is functioning to alleviate crankcase pressure.
I'm not sure why we would want air going into the crankcase...we want the crankcase to be negatively pressurized to prevent blowing out seals + slight performance improvement (although minimal for our application). Many people add vacuum pumps or use exhaust evac (venturi effect using exhaust to create negative pressure) to their FI engine crankcases for this reason...create vacuum to pull the blow-by gas in all conditions.
Here the diesel dudes are talking about it: Breather to Exhaust - Venturi PCV System - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/breather-to-exhaust-venturi-pcv-system.820196/
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Anyone in Guam with this kit?
I’ll be moving to Guam next year, and hope to meet others with turbo’d 80s. Still waiting on my kit, but hopeful I‘ll receive it before we move.
I’ll be moving to Guam next year, and hope to meet others with turbo’d 80s. Still waiting on my kit, but hopeful I‘ll receive it before we move.
This is to be a question for pure education - but would there be away to update the PCV & Breather system to better accommodate the difference that FI has had?
For what it’s worth - removed cheap catch can. Took apart all intake hoses and cleaned thoroughly.
Reset all clamps, cleaned PCV and installed new seal. Truck is hitting 7psi quick again and idling much better. All I can think was there was a small boost leak that was presenting itself over 3psi.
Forgot how much this thing pulls with the turbo in full force.
Oil sewage has decreased on the turbo side as well.
Reset all clamps, cleaned PCV and installed new seal. Truck is hitting 7psi quick again and idling much better. All I can think was there was a small boost leak that was presenting itself over 3psi.
Forgot how much this thing pulls with the turbo in full force.
Oil sewage has decreased on the turbo side as well.
CJK
SILVER Star
I would say a simpler and improved method to update the PCV in a FI-application would be to seal PCV Valve and Breather, then draw vacuum from a constant source rather than from manifold/intake. You could use either a vacuum pump or dry sump oil system to pull constant vacuum, thus forcing blow-by through that path. You could then capture the blow-by with an air/oil separator (rerouting it to the oil reservoir) or oil catch can.
Adding either of those would be much more complex installation and costly than throwing catch cans on the (2) lines on of crankcase.
Ok Joey its time for an update on those of us still waiting on out turbo kit. What's the timeline?
Global supply chain issues = hard to give a timeline / ETA would be my guess... I think Joey is at the mercy of the various suppliers who provide the components.
alia176
SILVER Star
We just got back from a week in Death Valley last week and this trip was a great test for the turbo. Heading west on I-40 from Abq usually means a fair amount of head wind and my NA 80 used to suck at it. It used to be a game of drafting behind 18wheelers until they simply pulled away on the hill climbs. Then catch up to them on the other side, rinse, repeat. This style of driving, along with playing with the OD button just got old. The fuel economy used to suck too.
But now, with the turbo, this drive was a very pleasant one. I set the cruise control at ABQ and she didn't downshift AT ALL. It was rather astounding. The sweet spot for our engine seems to be around 2750 rpm, which translates to approx 80 mph with 315s and 4:56 ratio and she simply pulls the hills all day long. Fuel econ was between 12 - 14 mpg with the power button was in the OFF position.
Before this trip, I did a complete DIY 2.5" exhaust using mandrel bent pieces and the 8.5 psi wastegate spring. She simply purred along with occasional hits to 7psi but mostly just moved between 1 - 5 psi as the cruise control dictated. The turbo is now able to breathe super freely and she spools up effortlessly. That boost gauge just did its thing and it was fun to watch on the hill climbs. Exhaust work broke my body so it was nice sitting at the Saline valley hot springs for four days to recoup and relax.
I used to poopoo our A343F tranny but now that there's ample power from the engine, I don't seem to mind it at all. Shifts are crisps and on time. I didn't do the valve body mods or line pressure adjustments.
The only thing left to solve is the coolant temp spiking while under boost, even though there is a new Koyo alum rad being used. I've been seeing temps up to 220deg on some of the steeper hwy hill climbs while the air temps were prolly 70-80deg. I might try Redline water wetter to see if that helps. Hood is vented using stamped louvers so the hot air is evacuating the engine bay at speeds.
Exhaust work consisted of a Flowmaster F/X series straight through muffler, a Vivrant tail pipe straight through resonator and a Magnaflow hi-flow cat. The drone inside the cab is minimal but I wouldn't mind if it were even a little less but I'll take it. I'm not sure how loud she is under load outside the rig. All connections are using Clampco V band clamps and there are four sections in my system.
I tried a Magnaflow straight through muffler and promptly wanted to blow my brains out:
Then I tried the Raptor Turbo style muffler and noticed the sound wasn't that much reduced but the backpressure was very noticeable:
The Flowmaster F/X muffler has an offset outlet so the air path takes two 22deg turns inside the muffler, which is filled with fiberglass. This muffler produces a surprisingly tolerable sound, not sure if I could've withstood the sound w/o the Vibrant resonator.
But now, with the turbo, this drive was a very pleasant one. I set the cruise control at ABQ and she didn't downshift AT ALL. It was rather astounding. The sweet spot for our engine seems to be around 2750 rpm, which translates to approx 80 mph with 315s and 4:56 ratio and she simply pulls the hills all day long. Fuel econ was between 12 - 14 mpg with the power button was in the OFF position.
Before this trip, I did a complete DIY 2.5" exhaust using mandrel bent pieces and the 8.5 psi wastegate spring. She simply purred along with occasional hits to 7psi but mostly just moved between 1 - 5 psi as the cruise control dictated. The turbo is now able to breathe super freely and she spools up effortlessly. That boost gauge just did its thing and it was fun to watch on the hill climbs. Exhaust work broke my body so it was nice sitting at the Saline valley hot springs for four days to recoup and relax.
I used to poopoo our A343F tranny but now that there's ample power from the engine, I don't seem to mind it at all. Shifts are crisps and on time. I didn't do the valve body mods or line pressure adjustments.
The only thing left to solve is the coolant temp spiking while under boost, even though there is a new Koyo alum rad being used. I've been seeing temps up to 220deg on some of the steeper hwy hill climbs while the air temps were prolly 70-80deg. I might try Redline water wetter to see if that helps. Hood is vented using stamped louvers so the hot air is evacuating the engine bay at speeds.
Exhaust work consisted of a Flowmaster F/X series straight through muffler, a Vivrant tail pipe straight through resonator and a Magnaflow hi-flow cat. The drone inside the cab is minimal but I wouldn't mind if it were even a little less but I'll take it. I'm not sure how loud she is under load outside the rig. All connections are using Clampco V band clamps and there are four sections in my system.
I tried a Magnaflow straight through muffler and promptly wanted to blow my brains out:
Then I tried the Raptor Turbo style muffler and noticed the sound wasn't that much reduced but the backpressure was very noticeable:
The Flowmaster F/X muffler has an offset outlet so the air path takes two 22deg turns inside the muffler, which is filled with fiberglass. This muffler produces a surprisingly tolerable sound, not sure if I could've withstood the sound w/o the Vibrant resonator.
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