who puts carpet in a 4x4? AKA a guide for installing vinyl flooring. (1 Viewer)

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there's a bit more to replacing the floor coverings in these old trucks than one might think...
After 30 years of mountain living and all the mud that gets tracked in with it; and after 5-10 years of a slowly dripping rain gutter or bad windshield gasket, our carpet began to sprout.
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Having decided that carpet was NOT the business in a 4X4 years ago, I cracked open the piggy bank, and struck a deal for some NON-US vinyl floor covering for our 1988 fj62. Trail Tailor to the rescue!
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upon receiving the package, the stress of what I would find under the carpet began to consume me.
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fortunately, the Cruiser Gods smile upon this old wagon, and after some grease spent on cleaning the floorboards, I was able to get right onto the install.
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First order of business following the removal of seats, seatbelts and center console, was to vacuum and wash the floorboards. A nice towel dry and I was ready to make use of the roll of 1/8" neoprene I have lugged around for the last 13 years. I cut sections of neoprene to use as underlay for sound and heat reduction. The factory deadener seemed to be intact and was left under the neoprene.
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Before diving into installing the actual floor covering, I want to mention a few things to consider before taking this on yourself:

1. cutting reliefs and bolt holes- is very nerve racking. Take time and undercut each step of the way. DO NOT make holes until you are certain it belongs there. and DO NOT cut the mats to size- leave them fat all the way around. Plan on removing each section a half dozen times to get it dead on.
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2. Bolt access is going to be tricky, so have an exit strategy. My final plan is to mount seat mounts over the vinyl ala factory, and to mount the seat belt mounts as well above the flooring. I feel this will look and perform better than a slot that the seat belts take-off from.
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3. I have cut AROUND the center console heater and e brake handle as tightly as I could.
4. seems I will need to make a new ebrake boot with a hemmed flange to lay OVER the vinyl cut-out. the vinyl cut-out just doesn't present itself as "finished".
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5.trimming for the wheel wells and door trims requires time. just cut it back a little at a time and see if it will stuff into place. I plan to leave the mat fat at the doors and let the sill plates cover the edge.
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7. cutting the excess from the sections so they marry together requires trimming the front edge of the center section to fall just aft of the front seats front mounting beam. I suppose one could roll the excess over the beam, but I feel it will make mounting the seats very difficult.
 
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and again. More pics to follow. any suggestions welcome. Thank You, Jason! hope I'm doing it OK...

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BTW, I'm missing my TT sticker! no sense in flossin, if I cant advertise, too!:hillbilly:
 
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Standing :clap:

Think about the four D's
Follow a leak to prevent damage. Looks like in your case that would be spills in cab.
Design
Deflection
Drainage
Drying ... Are you planning to also use floor mats to catch the incidental slop, and stop sprouts?
 
So happy about this, thank you for writing this up. :bounce::clap: This will be very helpful when I finally install mine.
 
YES I am. gunna cut and hem them myself. just undecided on material
 
I tried to make all my cuts run into the next- rounded corners and cuts that died into cuts, savy? @reevesci should I melt my edges? If I sew them, what type of needle should I use to prevent splits, or, is it hot needle?
 
I tried to make all my cuts run into the next- rounded corners and cuts that died into cuts, savy? @reevesci should I melt my edges? If I sew them, what type of needle should I use to prevent splits, or, is it hot needle?

S,

Only thing I will say is the vinyl is tough to work with and when I see that fold crease in the pictures, the material is not warm enough to install. The material should be relaxed and very pliable if the temp is right. It will relax over time and you can install it at a cooler temp, but the install will be much easier with a much warmer material.

If your machine is up to the task I'd say a 16-100 heavy needle with poly or nylon thread/string. As far as the cut edges, if they are smooth you can probably leave as is. But, IMO, if they are jagged or already split, I would clean them up so they won't have the desire to split/ripped if pulled on etc..

There should have been some TT stickers, TT USB charger and a TT keychain in the box for you. If not, let me know and I'll have Andrea send you some more out.

J
 
this is great !!! !!
 
thank You J! the box was dented open a bit at one end, but all the important parts were there. I wasn't even really sure there was a sticker till just now!
I know it will relax in our summer heat, and am trying to leave some room for it to do so. at this point, I have only made the brake and heater cuts and the initial FAT wheel well cuts. I'm going to run the heater for a while this morning and plan to use the blow dryer in key places like the seat risers and floor beam. I need to have the center section done today, at the very least.
 
You could close up the truck with a small space heater inside too. Would only take maybe 30 mins or so for it to warm up nice and toasty. Its a cool idea. I like it tho I really like my carpet too. The green sprouts are great... Just think of the $$ you could make off "alfalfa cruiser sprouts."
 
You could close up the truck with a small space heater inside too. Would only take maybe 30 mins or so for it to warm up nice and toasty. Its a cool idea. I like it tho I really like my carpet too. The green sprouts are great... Just think of the $$ you could make off "alfalfa cruiser sprouts."

I see what you did there, with the heater being a cool idea... :clap:
 
I see what you did there, with the heater being a cool idea... :clap:
I was referring to warming the inside for the vinyl to relax into place... Nothing more really but I can see how it could have been read. ;)
 

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