Builds Who likes addition? (FJ-60 + 1HZ)

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I am back from Moab, and had a little bit of time to work on the truck. Not as much as I would like, but some....

The first thing is going to crack @beno and @cruiserdan up. We were talking about a transfer case 4WD indicator switch the thad the wires coming out the side of the switch, instead of the top. Using the EPC is looks like 84222-60021 is the part that you want. Of course, there weren't any in town, so I was discussing how to get one here in time for my next step...

When I got back to the shop last night I realized I have a *few* of them already. 7, when I counted them. All of them were on spare transmissions and transfer cases I have lying around.

So, I present to you the original (top), and the reverse light switch from an '87 FJ60 (bottom):
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The thread size and length are identical. The only difference I can find is the direction the wires exit the switch.

And the reason for my insistence on a switch where the wires exit to the side... Yes, the exhaust is really close, but it's not a super critical indicator for me (I was even debating deleting it entirely), so if the exhaust heat makes the wires brittle and they crack one of these days that won't bother me much.
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I cleaned up, and repainted my PS gearbox. I was tempted to send it out for rebuild at West Texas Offroad (we've used them before) or to PSC. But in the end, I decided that I'll run it as is, and if it needs rebuild that I will pull it back off and get it rebuilt later. Besides, I use MUCH better paint and prep than West Texas Offroad (both boxes we got from them had horrible paint that flaked off far too easily, but the internals seem solid on those for sure(.

You might notice the new PS return line (I need to get another longer one to go from the cooler to the reservoir--not sure if I can find a Toyota part that fits for that yet or not), and new clamps for the line.
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I also mocked up the front core support and radiator. I wanted to get a start on fabricating a fan shroud, and on routing the intercooler pipes.
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I'm going to do the right side piping a little bit differently than you see here. I will swap to a 90 degree elbow out of the turbo, and then use an aluminum 45 degree piece to turn down towards the frame rail, and then into the aluminum 45 degree you see, but I will probably connect that directly to the elbow that is coming through the core support from the IC itself. I think it will be a bit cleaner, and let me adjust the angles just a little better to make it all work.
 
And the right side....
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I think I will just use a silicone 180 degree U to connect the aluminum pipe to the intake adapter. The other option would be to use a 90 degree aluminum elbow to point the intake back towards the intake adapter, and then a 90 degree silicone hose from that into the intake adapter. Not sure which will look less wonky, or if there's any different in performance.

Last, I took a paint marker, and traced the arc of the fan on the radiator, and I traced the center section of the fan (to be able to accurately locate a center). I also put up a tape to show the distance from the fan to the radiator. These will help me when I start fabricating the shroud.
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Plenty of room. I was planning on fabricating a shroud out of fiberglass, but I might end up doing a metal box shroud. Maybe. Not decided yet.

Unfortunately that's all for now. I have to go slave away for the clampdown for a bit now.

Dan
 
I found that flipping the stock 3F radiator upside down seems to work well with our 1HZ swap.

Might be worth a try.

Interesting.

Got any pics of it?

...or do you mean flipping the 3F radiator shroud upside down?

I'm not married to a solution yet.

Dan
 
Interesting.

Got any pics of it?

...or do you mean flipping the 3F radiator shroud upside down?

I'm not married to a solution yet.

Dan

My bad, I meant flipping the shroud. I am out of town now, but this is the closest pic I have of it. Its not done yet, and havent driven her much to be able give feedback on the cooling capability with this set up.

 
My bad, I meant flipping the shroud. I am out of town now, but this is the closest pic I have of it. Its not done yet, and havent driven her much to be able give feedback on the cooling capability with this set up.
Excellent! Looks like I need to find a 3FE/FJ62 fan shroud to try. That sure looks the ticket. A shroud isn't rocket science, so long as they are indeed a shroud, I'll bet it will work just fine. When you get back to the truck, if you could snap a picture of the fan in the shroud for me that would be great.

Thanks! That would save me days of work!

Did you connect the 70 series water hose to the lower outlet directly? I am debating having my radiator outlet moved farther to the right just to give more clearance from the fan, and because it's closer to where the 70 series water hose sits naturally. But also not sold on any particular solution there.

Dan
 
Good work!! Care to share the details on that washer fluid heater?

P

It's an Alphatherm AT-38OD. I haven't yet found a 24V Windshield Washer Fluid Heater (for the 24V trucks).

Amazon.com: AlphaTherm AT-38OD Windshield Washer Fluid Heater: Automotive

But enough chit-chat about small stuff!

I got back to the shop today. First thing I did was remember that we had an '87 FJ60 fan shroud lying around, and I figured that might be almost identical to the FJ62 shroud.

So...

I turned it upside down and gave it a test fit...
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Looks to me like the upside down shroud will work absolutely perfectly! I will have the radiator outlet moved to the farther outboard spot (where the drain cock presently resides). I've got an 18" fan, and the shroud fits it beautifully! I honestly don't think I could fiberglass up a better solution--LOVE IT.

I attached the other PS cooler line....
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I should receive the adapters from PSC tomorrow or the next day to be able to plumb up the PS pressure line.

What else did we do? I decided to add cheap pre-filters to the fuel lines from each tank, prior to the fuel selector valve. Just simple plastic see through filters so I can tell if one of the tanks gets bad fuel. Got the fuel lines modified for that, but I'm waiting on the filters themselves to arrive.

And I put new bushings in the T-case 2WD-4WD selector lever.
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We did a lot on the Blue-Jay 42 also. Changed the coolant, replaced the fuel filters, and flushed the fuel system (tracking down some bad fuel--see the pre-filters I want to install on the 60)....

And once that was done, Dad helped me put the body down on the frame!
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Yes. I bought all new body mounts and bolts from @beno.

In all of these pics you can see that I am experimenting with intercooler piping. I'm still waiting on some more stuff in the mail, before I can finalize it, but I would like the rough layout you see here if I didn't have batteries to go in there. The IC piping will change from what you see here.

But here's some pics of the engine, frame and body all happily bolted together...
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I love how tight the exhaust fits. It's like I measured carefully when I put it in!
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Thats going to be all the pics tonight!

Pretty stoked to have the body bolted on the frame, because now I can get to resolving a bunch of the things I need to work out still!

Dan
 
Who likes more progress? I know I do!

First little bit: because I'm ditching the US spec door panels, that go all the way to the window wipers, I needed a bit of trim around the door lock. This is a part from the rear lift gate, but it works perfectly in the doors.
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But now to more substantial stuff....

I prepped the hood for installation by adding the brackets for the hood gas strut mod, and I drilled and tapped some holes to attach some waterproof LED lights to the hood, so that I could illuminate the engine bay at night if I want to.

An Overview...
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The Gas Strut modded bracket...
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And the LEDs mounted.
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First off, an overview with the hood on. This really makes it "feel" more together.
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Then I started playing with the intercooler piping. This was far from a certainty of success, so here's a picture of the room you've got to work with.
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I took a 135 degree bend from the turbo, and was able to snake around the air cleaner and AC compressor to make this all fit now.
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The 135 degree piece I have is the wrong size, so I need to order anyway, but this proves to me that this will work. Barely.

Then to the left side.
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The left side is much more straightforward.

But luckily the hood closes just fine with all of that piping above the engine.
 
Here's where I mounted the gas struts. They work nicely, but I definitely didn't get the kitty launcher that others were promised.
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Of course I had to have fabricated a bracket off of one of the holes I needed for the hood struts... But the hood strut ball just functions as the bolt now. Easy enough.
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I rigged up my power supply and connected the LEDs, just to test them out...
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And the engine bay without the flash on.
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I am very happy with the LEDs for the engine bay. You can also see that I put in the Webasto, Fuel filter, and other odds and ends inside the engine bay. I am mocking up a bracket for a Hella relay box, and a fuse for the winch in this pic. I didn't get a good pic, but I mounted the vacuum reservoir way down low between the fender and the firewall--well out of the way.

That's it for tonight! It's coming together rapidly, but I'm pretty close to needing the wiring harness, the suspension and axles--and both soon enough.

Tomorrow I intend to get that bracket fabricated and be able to mostly button up the engine bay fabrication work.

Dan
 
I tabbed up an exhaust for the Webasto today. Basically, I'm running the exhaust out the hole in the fender where there is normally a plastic grill vent.

Just a plate of 16GA steel, with a tube inserted through it at the angle I want (that is, down and aft).
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I may grind it flush, not sure how happy I am with the 1/16" protrusion now. I left it just so that the panel would have *some* texture to it.
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Here's the full Webasto exhaust. From the Webasto, to a small muffler, to the exhaust port I tabbed.
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And from the outside of the truck...
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I also reassembled the doors today. They are now ready for the glass. Some of my glass was tinted by a PO. A bubbly, purple tint. That obviously has to go, so I will take the glass down to a tinting shop and get that removed, and have new (better) tint put on. Nothing real dark, not my style.

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I discovered that both exterior door handles were cracked, so I will need to find new ones. I thing @beno had told me that new handles were still available, although I'll be powder coating mine, so I might need to look for good used ones. Notwithstanding that little issue though, the doors will be done once the glass is in.

The only other picturesque thing I got done today was fabricating a PS line from AN fittings (AN-6), and PSC adapters.
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That's it for now though. I'm off to work tomorrow, so it might be a few weeks before I get back to the 60.

Dan
 
Where did you get the idea for the muffler in the Webasto exhaust? Neat idea, if I was car camping or something like that where the webasto was needed, I can see how it would be nice to bring the howl down to a whisper. Why not just route the exhaust along the frame rail under the truck though?
 
Where did you get the idea for the muffler in the Webasto exhaust? Neat idea, if I was car camping or something like that where the webasto was needed, I can see how it would be nice to bring the howl down to a whisper. Why not just route the exhaust along the frame rail under the truck though?
The mufflers are provided with some Webasto kits. Not really necessary with the smaller unit IMO, but it would quiet it down.
 
Where did you get the idea for the muffler in the Webasto exhaust? Neat idea, if I was car camping or something like that where the webasto was needed, I can see how it would be nice to bring the howl down to a whisper. Why not just route the exhaust along the frame rail under the truck though?

As @Douglas S noted, the muffler is a Webasto item, and is included in other models. I just added one to keep it as quiet as possible.

The reason I didn't simply route the exists down along the frame rail underneath the truck is that exhaust gas is corrosive, and I wanted it outside of my truck instead of underneath it. Also because I can't do anything the easy way, and having no need for the vent there for carb cooling, I figured why not.

Dan
 
Wow, looking great! Nice call @boozewz on the fan shroud. How about adding a slight cover over the webasto exhaust hole on the plate, partly for looks and to keep water out? something like an 1" or 1 1/4 with a 90 degree bend, then cut in half and welded to the plate? like this pic. or would this direct it too close to the paint?
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