So I'm getting ready to install these sliders. I actually have the correct offset 12mm box end wrench for removing the brake line bolt between the fuel tank and the frame, but as luck would have it, someone before me has that bolt completely rounded off. I tried to be very gentle but I just cant get a good grab on the head. Any suggestions? I know there's a variety of extractors out there but as you all know there's really no room for a socket or anything like that in there.
White Knuckle Slider Install (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Congo Cruiser
- Start date
-
- Tags
- sliders
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Is it possible to get some kind of small wheel or blade on the bolt head to cut a slot, which you can then torque on to a) get the bolt turning or b) break off half the head and make this more difficult?
Or maybe grind down two sides and get some vice grips on it?
Might need a 6 point wrench, good luck finding one locally though; they are generally a catalog/specialty order item.
Azca
If there is a harder way - I will find it...
I like the 6 point suggested by Rusty Marlin. If that does not work you could Weld or JB weld a nut on top of it. Next is is a vice grip. Last ditch it to cut it off at the nut and then hope you can get a vice grip on the exposed threads.
Before all wrenching on it, let it soak with some form of penetrating oil for a day or so.
Before all wrenching on it, let it soak with some form of penetrating oil for a day or so.
Not sure I’d weld near fuel lines, but JB, didn’t think of that. Excellent!
I ordered a bolt extractor socket. I think I can get the socket on top of it and then use a box end wrench on the socket. We'll see how that goes. Not enough room for a socket and a ratchet. I do like the JB weld a nut on there idea.... That will be plan B.
Thanks!!!
that sucks
having JUST done this job, i don't see a way without dropping the gas tank, which probably has its own host of issues. there is just NO room there to work normal tools.
Dual tanks, 'while you're in there...'
And there was much rejoicing.
Not much to add, but that baby scratch on your index finger doesn’t support your reported battle with this bolt.
Last edited:
.....my kinda guy right there, classic reply, love it !!!!!!!
For future reference
Will these fit in there?
Will these fit in there?
should! they have the same 45-deg offset the Tektron wrench I successfully used.
I'm about to pull the trigger on some WK 10deg sliders but I cant decide if I want the top plate. I'm planning on the full length slider with no mud flaps, so I'm thinking the top plate might act as a "splash guard" anyone have the WKs with top plate? Does the top plate help the step function?
i have the full top plate. the newer "dimpled" design vs the older diamond plate. can't say how well they work as splash guards as i haven't had them long, but they do make it easier for others to climb in and out, and as a platform i can stand on to access the roof rack comfortably. i was worried my kids feet would slip between the bars....or my wife.
i opted to keep my mud flaps and the ordered the shorter length sliders. i've since seen others cut the flaps for clearance with the longer sliders. but at the end of the day i don't rock crawl and am at peace with my decision.
Plate them unless you're the only passenger. Make sure the top is grippy. Plate helps lady shoes, dog paws, kidfeet keep from slipping off. Maybe you too.
Depending on what brand exhaust you're installing, I removed and replaced my exhaust without dismounting my WKOR sliders on my 96.
I went with Magnaflow down pipe, 2nd cat and Bosal muffler from Rock Auto. Probably the easiest exhaust job I've ever done.
