So what are your preferred cutting and grinding tools for the more delicate sheet metal work?
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Builds When your inner voice speaks, you need to listen. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter SHIfTHEAD
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NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Ha! I think you and I might have spoken about that unless that was @Rube I’m thinking of. I’m an LPN at a nursing home. Even when I watch aides drag the tanks along the carpeted floor I cringe!
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- #143
Well they are actually the same tools. The difference is I need to be careful and not let the cutting wheel get away from me when cutting thin sheet metal, and I will use a higher grit flap sanding disc when taking the paint off body panels. The 60 grit discs can take too much metal off way too fast. So I would probably remove paint with 120 grit.
air? electric? what brand of discs? What size of discs?
I did some roof work near the gutter and had trouble grinding everything flat and smooth between the roof and rain gutter.
I did some roof work near the gutter and had trouble grinding everything flat and smooth between the roof and rain gutter.
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- #145
I use an electric 7amp angle grinder from Harbor Freight. I got their internal branded one called Hercules after burning up the two cheaper versions in a few days each. This one is very well made and barely gets warm after a lot of usage. As for discs, whatever is the cheapest 4 1/2" cutting discs on Amazon. Amazon is a better deal in bulk than Harbor Freight, I get packs of 50 for $30. And the same for the flap discs. I've gotten several brands and all seems about the same.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Flap discs are the way to go. Use an angle grinder like he mentioned, I have a Milwaukee which I love. I ditched the handle fast and have learned wellhow to move the guard around. I’ve removed it a few times but it’s really not wise because not only does it protect you incase the disc breaks, it helps slow and catch bits that fly off your object. Buy the larger discs so you have more overlap to get into that little gap. There’s also another funky disc, polycarbide, you can buy that looks like a really hard black sponge. They are supposed to only remove paint and rust. Love those! They come for a drill or angle grinder. As well as you can also use sand paper wrapped around a narrow strip of wood, metal rod or a paint brush handle or something like that. Over time you’ll learn to get creative.
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- Thread starter
- #147
Just a little update here. I've got the frame coated and drying. The insides got Eastwood inner frame coating in green, so I can see contrast, and the outside got the whole POR15 treatment. That stuff smells like it's got a fair bit of mineral spirits in it to let it run down into the crevices, which is does nicely. So I'll let it cure for a couple days before I look at more coats. Guess it's time to start cleaning the axles now...
Keep it up!
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- #149
Got the OME Suspension kit on order yesterday. Ouch. But Cruiser Outfitters seem like good guys. I priced out all the parts individually through Amazon, with free shipping, and the difference in price wasn't that much, and I like supporting the community anyway. I spoke with Bryce who helped me put together a package to fit the type of ride I am looking for and still allow for future updates. I got Heavy springs but will pull a leaf from the rears when they arrive. So down the road if I need them I'll be able to put the leaf back in if I add bumpers, etc.
While I wait for the kit to show up I'm wrapping up the frame resto. One of the things that need attention are the spring mounts. I've found that the front and rear are practically designed to rust. They have a cavity on the bottom that will trap dirt and grime and rust from the I side out. I didn't take a photo of the rears, but here's a pic of one of the fronts I'm fixing. I cut open the cavity, clean it out, get rid of all dirt and rust scale, rust proof it and weld it back up. I'll add a photo later after I weld it up.
While I wait for the kit to show up I'm wrapping up the frame resto. One of the things that need attention are the spring mounts. I've found that the front and rear are practically designed to rust. They have a cavity on the bottom that will trap dirt and grime and rust from the I side out. I didn't take a photo of the rears, but here's a pic of one of the fronts I'm fixing. I cut open the cavity, clean it out, get rid of all dirt and rust scale, rust proof it and weld it back up. I'll add a photo later after I weld it up.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
I’m blanking... this a 62? Those spring perches are STOUT. Mine on my 60 don’t have the channels but very heavy chunk of metal. I dipped both of mine in Evaporust, wire brushed and coated in a mix of rustoleum and linseed.
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- #151
Yeah, a 62. The design is strong but also perfect for rust.
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- #152
Alright, I've sat on my ass long enough. I'm working at installing the new suspension and can't find documentation on the springs. Which side is which here. These are the markings on the front springs. Anyone got any ideas?
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- Thread starter
- #153
Nevermind, I found a thread with the answer
forum.ih8mud.com
Basically the results of QA test where there can be a 0,+ or - for whether they are above, at or below spec ever so slightly. So you put the + on the driver side to ensure level.
Plus and Minus Markings on OME Dakar Springs?
Well I just mounted my rear springs, OME CS001R. After getting them mounted I noted "
forum.ih8mud.com
Basically the results of QA test where there can be a 0,+ or - for whether they are above, at or below spec ever so slightly. So you put the + on the driver side to ensure level.
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- #154
Small update just to let you know I haven't bailed on the project. Its riding weather now and I'm planning a big bike trip way up into Canada/Alaska in about 10 days. So that's taking most of my spare time. But I've gotten the axles mounted again and all the new suspension bits on the frame. The front axle will be power washed and painted the new seals put in when I get back to devoting more time to the project.
You call it FeO (I get it - you can refer to either iron oxide or Spanish for ugly)
But it looks more like a Lazarus to me.
Never underestimate the inspiration that this effort and documentation of such provides. Well done.
What are you riding to AK, and where?
But it looks more like a Lazarus to me.
Never underestimate the inspiration that this effort and documentation of such provides. Well done.
What are you riding to AK, and where?
- Thread starter
- #156
I just got back yesterday at 3am, after 2 days driving back from Butte MT. From Butte we rode our bikes (Suzuki DL650) from there up to Dawson City, Yukon, over to Chicken AK, then to Fairbanks AK, and back down to Butte. Total bike miles was 5800 over 15 days.
It was an awesome trip and I intend to get back to British Columbia soon. It is stunningly beautiful.
Impressive. 400 miles per day average for 15 days. That's my dream trip but riding all the way from Ohio. Someday.
I wouldn’t waste a wire wheel on those things. Georg sells a sweet pair of aftermarket ones that are about one thousand times better than the OEM ones. Check out post #117 in my build thread.
Builds - Elma the red 60
I also stopped by Georg's for a hang and picked up another fusible link as mine was cooked. I think that's my white 62 in the back left. Thanks for posting I miss her!
forum.ih8mud.com
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Ignore that one ^^^ stock is always better. Why waste perfectly good metal? Toss them in a bath of your choice, clean them up and paint. Good as new and you didn’t waste any money, alittle time sure, but now you’ve got cash for something ‘more’ important.
If you are going for a period correct full restoration then Felicity is right. If you are going for a functional off road vehicle she is wrong. Georg’s are flat out better than the OEM ones. Why? No hardware to get caught on rocks. Stronger steel. End of story.
