When lifting the motor and gear boxes to install in the frame how do you keep the transfer case from rolling the whole assembly to the PS? (1 Viewer)

[sogncab]

Now that I have it mocked up in the frame there is not much room to do much of anything on the block and the engine compartment is going to be tight.

It's ten pounds of crap in a five pound bag. Add AC, power steering, and compressor, it gets worse. LOL

 

[POPO AGIE]

It's ten pounds of crap in a five pound bag. Add AC, power steering, and compressor, it gets worse. LOL

View attachment 3544951

I have decided against doing AC. We do get warm summers here but it never had it before and I need a good heaters more with winters similar to Minnesota. I am doing PS with a FJ80 box with a FJ105 sector shaft and have new F350 shock towers to make room for the steering box.

I want an air compressor but wont put it under the hood.

Did you fabricate that air box that would simplify things having it on top like the stock filter housing did and solves the routing for the snorkel and the length is good for the MAP sensor. What air filter fits in the box?

 

[POPO AGIE]

1500 seems oddly/dangerously high, but if you have a tuner box, or have reflashed the ecu, that'll do it. LOL

I've had two diesel pickups, and 01 Dodge Ram 2500, and a 18 Fiat RAM RAM 3500. That 01 was a great vehicle, the 18 was just garbage. I had a programer stacked with a tuner box on the 01, Southbend clutch, cold air intake, exhaust, FASS lift pump as well. I loved that pickup. Great power, great mileage. That 6.7 was such a disappointment, and the amount of money you have to spend on the Mercedes van transmission to get it to hold any power is astronomical. I did like the light clutch pedal though. I wish they would've stuck with the NV5600, that was a fantastic transmission for longevity. I bought a Ford F350 with a gas engine to replace the RAM RAM. I get slightly less mileage, costs half changing the oil, and saved $10k on the purchase price, and I don't have the time bomb of emissions crap. Modern diesels are a joke being saddled with the emissions equipment.

I've bitched at Cummins numerous times about there not being a high idle on the R2.8. My vp44 pumped pickup, it had 3 cylinder high idle. I miss that. It'd warm up fast dragging three cylinders. The 18 would close the exhaust brake, and that kinda did the same thing. Worked it a bit to build temps faster.

It requires a massive radiator to keep the R2.8 cool when you're working it, so it takes forever to warm up, but it heat soaks fast when you start working it. I don't know if they screwed the pooch on coolant volume in the block, or if the water pump is undersized. Or both. It builds coolant temp fast. It's pretty rare that you actually get to use the accelerator that much though. Snow wheeling is about the only time where I've held that thing at or close to governor for extended periods of time.
I have to cover my radiator at about 30 degrees if I expect to have heat and I'm just driving down the road. I've never seen temps get very high with the setup that Proffitt did on mine. I don't think I've seen water temps over 200 ever, and that was AC cranked, and 108 degree air temp in Salt Lake City.


The other absolutely infuriating thing about the programming on the R2.8 is that the alternator does not kick on if you just start it and let it idle. It needs sustained engine RPM over about 1500 for a certain amount of time, or the water temp to be above 100F. In colder months, where I'll start it and go back into the house, I'll come back with a low voltage code because the alternator isn't engaged. The pulley is turning, but it's not putting any juice into the system.

The 1500 degrees was caused by the load and a head wind of about 60 mph and the air filter was collapsed and did not know it. Normally that truck would pull the 40' trailer up hill against the wind and pass the semis. Once it had a new air filter it never got that hot again and my 2018 has a filter minder mounted on the A pillar so I can see it inside the cab and change it when it is pulled about half way. The 6.7 pulls a lot of air and when I am passing on a 2 lane road and want to get around the car in front of me I get after it and it will pull the filter minder hard. I do not have any tuners on my 6.7s and always had plenty of power. The 2012 had the Chrysler transmission that would got to 6th gear and lock the torque converted at 35 mph and would shutter like a manual. I had a floor shift installed and manually shift it to solve that problem. When I bought the 2018 I ordered the floor shifter parts for it but it has the Asian transmission and the computer already knows what gear to be in for speed and load very happy with it and I don't like autos.

I am going to use a Champion 4 core for a FJ40 and electric fan for cooling. Salt Lake can be a little warmer then here but our temps very every year. Last summer it never got out of the 90s but last year we had temps below -50 and other years it was 60 above and windy. I will install the Cummins block hear so that would help in the winter.

Most of the time I am not even home in the winter much so wont be driving it a lot anyway and the Wife can't drive a stick. Most years we don't see a lot of snow then other years we get overwhelmed in snow and the Wife spend a lot of tractor seat time keeping our road open when I am not home.

 

[sogncab]

I have decided against doing AC. We do get warm summers here but it never had it before and I need a good heaters more with winters similar to Minnesota. I am doing PS with a FJ80 box with a FJ105 sector shaft and have new F350 shock towers to make room for the steering box.

I want an air compressor but wont put it under the hood.

Did you fabricate that air box that would simplify things having it on top like the stock filter housing did and solves the routing for the snorkel and the length is good for the MAP sensor. What air filter fits in the box?

AC is a pretty sweet luxury. I wasn't planning on it either, but Jeremiah talked me into it, and I'm glad he did. To be fair, I'm a pussy, don't like being uncomfortable, and I daily my 40 when the roads aren't covered in Toyota eating chemicals. .

Proffitt made the airbox for me. Exactly for the reasons you said. Make the plumbing for the snorkel easier. I don't like the snorkel esthetically. I just hate the idea of a filter drawing hot air from under the hood. A snorkel was the easy button for pulling cool air from outside the engine bay.
Uses an air filter for a 02 Tacoma with a 4 cylinder I believe.

Found a picture with the compressor installed. I put my lockers in Christmas of 2022.

 

[sogncab]

and electric fan for cooling.

Jeremiah swears by a mechanical fan. The shroud needs to be correct too.

I know most people think, WTF does the guy that paid to have his stuff built know. If I had the time, I would've loved to do the swap myself, but there's just not enough hours in the day.

 

[POPO AGIE]

I also wanted the snorkel for cooler air and it is dry and dusty here most of the time and have the intake above the dust is good. I also may encounter a water crossing in the high country where I would like to drive it the most. But don't really want do do any deep water crossings.

The 2 F (2F and 155F) motors I had both needed cardboard in front of the radiator in the winter here but toward the end of the both motors had more problems with sheading heat and use the heater in the summer.

I put lockers in both ends and the rear is a FJ60 axle I converted to a full floater and the front has a big brake kit and wider track to match the rear.

 

[POPO AGIE]

Jeremiah swears by a mechanical fan. The shroud needs to be correct too.

I know most people think, WTF does the guy that paid to have his stuff built know. If I had the time, I would've loved to do the swap myself, but there's just not enough hours in the day.

I have heard the arguments for and against electric and mechanical fans. I plan to have a switch on the dash to override the automatic switch.
The Champion radiator has the shroud and fan included.

I talked to Jeremiah a few years ago or his sales guy when I was getting started on the project and a Stage 3 would have been about $150K so I am doing as much as I can myself and have a local shop helping me out.

Overland Cruiser provided my the adapters for the 2F bell housing and crank extension for the 2F flywheel, crossmember and the motor mounts. I just finished getting the mounts tacked in and have it staged to start pulling the assembly back out.

I am getting ready to pull the trigger on the clutch as soon as I get a quote from Cruiser Brothers.

 

[sogncab]

I want to say he was using electric, then went mechanical.

Yeah, paying people to disassemble and reassemble a vehicle entirely, isn't cheap.

I think mine just uses a small block clutch. Kinda why I haven't felt bad about abusing it when in situations where 1st gear, low range isn't slow enough, or I need the torque multiplication from the slipping clutch.

Also, since it is never easier than now, and you may have already done it, throw the 3:1 tcase gears in. I'm going to yack my tcase out one of these days and do that before going to Colorado again in August. 1st low, just isn't low enough. But I'm running 3.70 gears too. I think I'm running 2100 rpm at 60mph still. I want the best of both worlds. lol

 

[POPO AGIE]

I want to say he was using electric, then went mechanical.

Yeah, paying people to disassemble and reassemble a vehicle entirely, isn't cheap.

I think mine just uses a small block clutch. Kinda why I haven't felt bad about abusing it when in situations where 1st gear, low range isn't slow enough, or I need the torque multiplication from the slipping clutch.

Also, since it is never easier than now, and you may have already done it, throw the 3:1 tcase gears in. I'm going to yack my tcase out one of these days and do that before going to Colorado again in August. 1st low, just isn't low enough. But I'm running 3.70 gears too. I think I'm running 2100 rpm at 60mph still. I want the best of both worlds. lol

I can switch if the electric if it is a problem.

I had Georg build my H55F and split transfer case with the 3:1 low range and he called me to have a conversation about what engine I was going to use when I ordered the gear boxes. I have the parking brake on the TC like the 4 speed transfer case had. I just have disc brakes on the rear, I only have one drum brake to worry about and it worked well originally except for when the out put seal leaked. My limited mechanical ability it was easy to replace the seal and install new shoes. FJ40s are not hard to work on and were designed to be worked on any where in the world. Now 45 years after buying my FJ40 I have 30 + years of working on turbines and other industrial mechanical equipment and my mechanical experience and knowledge has greatly expanded.

I kept the 4:11 gears in the differentials so should have plenty of gear reductions compared to the 1.9:1 in the original transfer case. I never had a problem with lack of torque with a F engine and the gearing it came with. Now it is just better. The flat torque curve also makes it a good combination with the R2.8.

I cut the torque tube before I installed the drive train and will put it back in later behind the tub well for the gas tank.

 

[POPO AGIE]

There's plenty of room on mine, and I appreciate the vertical filter.

What I don't care for is the plastic filter housing. Mine leaks occasionally. Not much, but enough to be annoying. I think Axis was working on an aluminum solution.

If you want to add a oil pressure sender, while the engine is out is the time. You'll need a remote mounting kit for that. It is a PIA to install once the engine is in. There isn't enough room to thread in the sender as is. I think Axis made that at also.

I just ordered the Axis oil sending unit relocation, and tried to get the Cummins block heater but they are out of stock.

 

[rossl]

Axis unit is just some standard fittings put together into a nice package. Worked well, but disappointing when I figured out how overpriced it was.

 

[sogncab]

I just ordered the Axis oil sending unit relocation, and tried to get the Cummins block heater but they are out of stock.

The pickups came with a block heater, and is just missing the cord. Used to just buy the cord from a Case IH dealer for half
I don't think that is how the R2.8 comes

 

[rossl]

The pickups came with a block heater, and is just missing the cord. Used to just buy the cord from a Case IH dealer for half
I don't think that is how the R2.8 comes

I think they are separate part numbers. 5320949 should be the heater, 3946907 should be the cable. I’ve found sometimes finding Cummins parts through resellers can be easier than going direct too.

 

[POPO AGIE]

The pickups came with a block heater, and is just missing the cord. Used to just buy the cord from a Case IH dealer for half
I don't think that is how the R2.8 comes

The Dodge dealer in Rock Springs, WY did not know the trucks did not come with a block heater. If you didn't get them with the truck you had to pay a lot more after the fact. He went out a checked the trucks on the lot and came back in and told his staff to put heaters in every truck and they would not sell them with out one after that. The 4 I have had all had them back to the '99.

We don't have a IH Case dealer here just John Deere and New Holland. I did notice the cord was spendy.

 

[POPO AGIE]

Axis unit is just some standard fittings put together into a nice package. Worked well, but disappointing when I figured out how overpriced it was.

Most everything from Axis is over priced and they really are not interested in the Land Cruiser conversion. I am glad I did not use there flywheel adapter. Mine is a Cummins flywheel with it machined with spokes and is still on the heavy side and solid.

 

[orangeyz]

I have heard the arguments for and against electric and mechanical fans. I plan to have a switch on the dash to override the automatic switch.
The Champion radiator has the shroud and fan included.

Last October my fan quit working on a road trip.
Tested stuff at home: Fan was good, relay was good, my wires were all good, but the signal from the Cummins computer to the relay wasn't happening. Don't know if it was a broken wire in the OE harness or the computer itself, but I replaced it all with This thing wired into the same relay I had there in the first place.
You might think about doing that from the beginning, would make it cleaner to have a 5A fuse in the connection between power and this thing and the relay. It would also be easy to work a switch in with this if you wanted to turn the fan on early or something.
I used the 180°on/65°off version.

 

[POPO AGIE]

Last October my fan quit working on a road trip.
Tested stuff at home: Fan was good, relay was good, my wires were all good, but the signal from the Cummins computer to the relay wasn't happening. Don't know if it was a broken wire in the OE harness or the computer itself, but I replaced it all with This thing wired into the same relay I had there in the first place.
You might think about doing that from the beginning, would make it cleaner to have a 5A fuse in the connection between power and this thing and the relay. It would also be easy to work a switch in with this if you wanted to turn the fan on early or something.
I used the 180°on/65°off version.

I did see one installed on a YouTube of one being installed for that very reason. Not that expensive either.

 

[POPO AGIE]

I think they are separate part numbers. 5320949 should be the heater, 3946907 should be the cable. I’ve found sometimes finding Cummins parts through resellers can be easier than going direct too.

I have found the cords for a lot less on line. Will the 5.9 and 6.7 cords work?

 

[POPO AGIE]

I think they are separate part numbers. 5320949 should be the heater, 3946907 should be the cable. I’ve found sometimes finding Cummins parts through resellers can be easier than going direct too.

I have the block heater coming from Cummins. Where is it installed in the block. I took the motor mounts off to paint them. I would like to get it and the oil pressure sending unit installed before I put back into the frame.

 

[rossl]

I have the block heater coming from Cummins. Where is it installed in the block. I took the motor mounts off to paint them. I would like to get it and the oil pressure sending unit installed before I put back into the frame.

It is on the driver’s side of the block in front of the intake if I recall correctly. There is a plug there, remove the plug to install the block heater. I did it when I had everything off as well, far easier.