When lifting the motor and gear boxes to install in the frame how do you keep the transfer case from rolling the whole assembly to the PS? (2 Viewers)

[matzell]

With the body on, I drop it in past the axle at an angle, then come in on the pass side and lift with a floor jack undet the t-case front output, then roll the chassis forward till I get it in place, lowering the engine as I go to level it out. You need to start with the t-case hanging lower than the engine to squeeze it in between the body and front axle. Rolling the chassis, rather than the hoist and jack is the key.

 

[POPO AGIE]

Here is my 3B and H41 going on the frame few years ago. No problems, got it done by myself.
View attachment 3542185

View attachment 3542186

I bought a 3/4 ton come along to do something similar as you did with the ratchet strap to keep it level.

 

[POPO AGIE]

With the body on, I drop it in past the axle at an angle, then come in on the pass side and lift with a floor jack undet the t-case front output, then roll the chassis forward till I get it in place, lowering the engine as I go to level it out. You need to start with the t-case hanging lower than the engine to squeeze it in between the body and front axle. Rolling the chassis, rather than the hoist and jack is the key.

Everything back to the fire wall is gone I just have to get the transfer case and transmission through the opening for the transmission cover from the front and below. I like the idea of rolling the truck to the engine hoist because it keeps everything from swinging as I am getting it into place.

I now have a transmission jack rated for 2K lbs to help transfer the weight and angle to get it lined up with the motor mounts and the bell housing mounts to stab bolts.

 

[POPO AGIE]

Oh I see ,I usually hang mine from above engine hoist, no jack
put chains onto case so it cannot roll. Never tried a jack.

I also have a new come a long to keep it level until I can transfer weight to the jack from underneath.

 

[POPO AGIE]

The nylon sling and come along worked great to keep it level until I could use the transmission jack to support the transfer case.

 

[charliemeyer007]

+1 for rolling the vehicle in or out instead of moving the assembly. The adjustable tilting unit work great for shoehorning assembly into place along with moving the vehicle.

 

[rossl]

The nylon sling and come along worked great to keep it level until I could use the transmission jack to support the transfer case.

View attachment 3543317

That’s pretty much what I did, strap around the low side of the transfer case until I could get a floor jack under it. Not easy, but it works.

 

[POPO AGIE]

I also got a HD transmission jack and that worked pretty well accept for when the side to side lead screw some how got pointed in the wrong direction and got pinched. I had to take the plate of to get it fixed.

 

[POPO AGIE]

+1 for rolling the vehicle in or out instead of moving the assembly. The adjustable tilting unit work great for shoehorning assembly into place along with moving the vehicle.

I was going to do that but I was not able to get enough lift to get over the first crossmember so had to take the tires off and use jack stands to support the front axle.

 

[sogncab]

I have thought about that but this front case has the oil filter mounted on the back side of the oil cooler. There are supposed to be adapters in the kit to convert to a remote filter and may have to do that so the filter does not clash with the DS frame.

There's plenty of room on mine, and I appreciate the vertical filter.

What I don't care for is the plastic filter housing. Mine leaks occasionally. Not much, but enough to be annoying. I think Axis was working on an aluminum solution.

If you want to add a oil pressure sender, while the engine is out is the time. You'll need a remote mounting kit for that. It is a PIA to install once the engine is in. There isn't enough room to thread in the sender as is. I think Axis made that at also.

 

[sogncab]

Sender relocation kit

 

[POPO AGIE]

There's plenty of room on mine, and I appreciate the vertical filter.

What I don't care for is the plastic filter housing. Mine leaks occasionally. Not much, but enough to be annoying. I think Axis was working on an aluminum solution.

If you want to add a oil pressure sender, while the engine is out is the time. You'll need a remote mounting kit for that. It is a PIA to install once the engine is in. There isn't enough room to thread in the sender as is. I think Axis made that at also.

I did have clearance for the filter and the frame installing but did leave some scares on the filter where it came in contact with the head of the bolt holding the DS motor mount. I did take the particulate filter off while getting the assembly into place.

Just seems like a valuables place for the oil filter to be exposed on the side of the oil pan.

 

[POPO AGIE]

Sender relocation kit

Thank you. I want to read the oil pressure at the gauge I will also order a block heater. I have to pull it all back out anyway to weld the mounts and install the clutch and flywheel.

 

[sogncab]

Are you going to be running the Toyota cluster?

 

[POPO AGIE]

Are you going to be running the Toyota cluster?

I will use the DD cluster so I have a tach and want to install boost and pyro gauges so will need sensors for them too.

 

[sogncab]

I will use the DD cluster so I have a tach and want to install boost and pyro gauges so will need sensors for them too.

If I'm telling you stuff you already know, feel free to tell me to shut up. The Cummins computer monitors oil pressure, but binary. So you have to add a sender.

Everything else but egt you can get through Dakota Digital's module. I don't know how accurate the boost is, it's pulling from the MAP sensor to get that info. I've thought about adding a separate sender for manifold pressure, but I'm not modifying mine so it's more of a curiosity. Going through terrain though, it is good to keep that up a little bit. Anything above zero. The Cummins computer craps the bed and won't fuel unless there is some throttle input. That is one thing I despise about that engine. The idle should be governed in both directions, and it'll steal trying to crawl through stiff with no throttle input.

I don't think egt is important unless you're planning on fueling it harder. But I also understand wanting gauges.

 

[POPO AGIE]

If I'm telling you stuff you already know, feel free to tell me to shut up. The Cummins computer monitors oil pressure, but binary. So you have to add a sender.

Everything else but egt you can get through Dakota Digital's module. I don't know how accurate the boost is, it's pulling from the MAP sensor to get that info. I've thought about adding a separate sender for manifold pressure, but I'm not modifying mine so it's more of a curiosity. Going through terrain though, it is good to keep that up a little bit. Anything above zero. The Cummins computer craps the bed and won't fuel unless there is some throttle input. That is one thing I despise about that engine. The idle should be governed in both directions, and it'll steal trying to crawl through stiff with no throttle input.

I don't think egt is important unless you're planning on fueling it harder. But I also understand wanting gauges.

Your input is appreciated.

I have owned diesels since 1995 with the F250 and 7.3 IDI and took diesel fundamentals in college. I live at 5200 ft above sea level and have passes that range from 8-10000 feet to get out of the valley and it is windy in Wyoming and the FJ40 is as aerodynamic as a brick. The 2F would struggle to do 55 westbound on I-80 until a truck blocked the wind. I put gauges on my 2005 Dodge which included fuel pressure, boost, EGT, and the transmission temp of the G56 transmission. Then the 2 6.7s I have had I use the Edge monitor and boost and EGT are what I use it the most for. I use the boost and EGT to tell if I am in the right gear when pulling a grade, if my boost is low and my EGTs are high I know I need to down shift to get more air flowing across the head. I had a collapsed air filter on my 2012 Ram and it ran terrible and was pulling my 5th wheel against the wind on I-80 in Nevada and was not paying attention to the EGTs because the 6.7 doesn't get high temps normally. But noticed that they were up to 1500 and had to pay attention and slow down.

I do not have any operating experience with this motor so I want to have real time information.

I was also told that there is no fast idle for cold weather like my other 4 Cummins I have owned so eventually they may entail a tune.

 

[POPO AGIE]

There's plenty of room on mine, and I appreciate the vertical filter.

What I don't care for is the plastic filter housing. Mine leaks occasionally. Not much, but enough to be annoying. I think Axis was working on an aluminum solution.

If you want to add a oil pressure sender, while the engine is out is the time. You'll need a remote mounting kit for that. It is a PIA to install once the engine is in. There isn't enough room to thread in the sender as is. I think Axis made that at also.

Now that I have it mocked up in the frame there is not much room to do much of anything on the block and the engine compartment is going to be tight.

 

[rossl]

Now that I have it mocked up in the frame there is not much room to do much of anything on the block and the engine compartment is going to be tight.

It feels like there is so much room with the 2F, but the packaging is close when you put everything in for sure.

I didn’t set up for EGT, but adding boost and real oil pressure was easy with the Dakota Digital setup, so I went that direction. Agreed with a little extra diagnostic info on any setup which wasn’t designed specifically for the application.

 

[sogncab]

Your input is appreciated.

I have owned diesels since 1995 with the F250 and 7.3 IDI and took diesel fundamentals in college. I live at 5200 ft above sea level and have passes that range from 8-10000 feet to get out of the valley and it is windy in Wyoming and the FJ40 is as aerodynamic as a brick. The 2F would struggle to do 55 westbound on I-80 until a truck blocked the wind. I put gauges on my 2005 Dodge which included fuel pressure, boost, EGT, and the transmission temp of the G56 transmission. Then the 2 6.7s I have had I use the Edge monitor and boost and EGT are what I use it the most for. I use the boost and EGT to tell if I am in the right gear when pulling a grade, if my boost is low and my EGTs are high I know I need to down shift to get more air flowing across the head. I had a collapsed air filter on my 2012 Ram and it ran terrible and was pulling my 5th wheel against the wind on I-80 in Nevada and was not paying attention to the EGTs because the 6.7 doesn't get high temps normally. But noticed that they were up to 1500 and had to pay attention and slow down.

I do not have any operating experience with this motor so I want to have real time information.

I was also told that there is no fast idle for cold weather like my other 4 Cummins I have owned so eventually they may entail a tune.

1500 seems oddly/dangerously high, but if you have a tuner box, or have reflashed the ecu, that'll do it. LOL

I've had two diesel pickups, and 01 Dodge Ram 2500, and a 18 Fiat RAM RAM 3500. That 01 was a great vehicle, the 18 was just garbage. I had a programer stacked with a tuner box on the 01, Southbend clutch, cold air intake, exhaust, FASS lift pump as well. I loved that pickup. Great power, great mileage. That 6.7 was such a disappointment, and the amount of money you have to spend on the Mercedes van transmission to get it to hold any power is astronomical. I did like the light clutch pedal though. I wish they would've stuck with the NV5600, that was a fantastic transmission for longevity. I bought a Ford F350 with a gas engine to replace the RAM RAM. I get slightly less mileage, costs half changing the oil, and saved $10k on the purchase price, and I don't have the time bomb of emissions crap. Modern diesels are a joke being saddled with the emissions equipment.

I've bitched at Cummins numerous times about there not being a high idle on the R2.8. My vp44 pumped pickup, it had 3 cylinder high idle. I miss that. It'd warm up fast dragging three cylinders. The 18 would close the exhaust brake, and that kinda did the same thing. Worked it a bit to build temps faster.

It requires a massive radiator to keep the R2.8 cool when you're working it, so it takes forever to warm up, but it heat soaks fast when you start working it. I don't know if they screwed the pooch on coolant volume in the block, or if the water pump is undersized. Or both. It builds coolant temp fast. It's pretty rare that you actually get to use the accelerator that much though. Snow wheeling is about the only time where I've held that thing at or close to governor for extended periods of time.
I have to cover my radiator at about 30 degrees if I expect to have heat and I'm just driving down the road. I've never seen temps get very high with the setup that Proffitt did on mine. I don't think I've seen water temps over 200 ever, and that was AC cranked, and 108 degree air temp in Salt Lake City.


The other absolutely infuriating thing about the programming on the R2.8 is that the alternator does not kick on if you just start it and let it idle. It needs sustained engine RPM over about 1500 for a certain amount of time, or the water temp to be above 100F. In colder months, where I'll start it and go back into the house, I'll come back with a low voltage code because the alternator isn't engaged. The pulley is turning, but it's not putting any juice into the system.