When lifting the motor and gear boxes to install in the frame how do you keep the transfer case from rolling the whole assembly to the PS? (3 Viewers)

[POPO AGIE]

It is on the driver’s side of the block in front of the intake if I recall correctly. There is a plug there, remove the plug to install the block heater. I did it when I had everything off as well, far easier.

I will keep looking. I have time, I have a fortified clutch from Terrain Tamer coming, and new bolts for the clutch from SOR and flywheel bolts and clips from TDP.

 

[sogncab]

I never had a problem with lack of torque with a F engine and the gearing it came with. Now it is just better. The flat torque curve also makes it a good combination with the R2.8.

Just an FYI, it doesn't drive like a 12V, it doesn't start making torque until much higher than I anticipated, and it is a pretty narrow band.

4:10 gears will help with trails, but you'll be revving pretty good at 60mph on the highway. I haven't done the 3:1 gears yet either. That will help a ton in low range.

Just trying to manage expectations. The R2.8 wasn't quite what I was expecting. It gets 20mpg, which isn't too bad for a 5k# brick.

 

[rossl]

I will keep looking. I have time, I have a fortified clutch from Terrain Tamer coming, and new bolts for the clutch from SOR and flywheel bolts and clips from TDP.

Kind of hard to see - but the red boot in the center of the picture below the air intake is the block heater core, just to the right of the "Turbo Diesel".

 

[POPO AGIE]

Kind of hard to see - but the red boot in the center of the picture below the air intake is the block heater core, just to the right of the "Turbo Diesel".
View attachment 3550669

I went out and found it. It was behind that wire loom. What cord did you buy is it the same as the 5.9 or 6.7? That short cord is way to expensive.

 

[rossl]

I went out and found it. It was behind that wire loom. What cord did you buy is it the same as the 5.9 or 6.7? That short cord is way to expensive.

I bought the R2.8 cord, 3946907. No idea if it is the same as the 5.9 or 6.7, I don’t have anything to compare it to.

 

[POPO AGIE]

Just an FYI, it doesn't drive like a 12V, it doesn't start making torque until much higher than I anticipated, and it is a pretty narrow band.

4:10 gears will help with trails, but you'll be revving pretty good at 60mph on the highway. I haven't done the 3:1 gears yet either. That will help a ton in low range.

Just trying to manage expectations. The R2.8 wasn't quite what I was expecting. It gets 20mpg, which isn't too bad for a 5k# brick.

View attachment 3550662

I only drove a 12 valve when they first came out for a test drive before they were available with a manual transmission. My 5.9s and 6.7s were 24 valve. I don't expect it to run like either. But should do better then the 7.3 IDI did with out a turbo and a lot less weight.

When I went up to MT to pick the adapters we took a ride in a FJ60 I did not drive just rode, and it did not have any problem get up to 70-75 against the wind so in my book it is much better then a 2F which struggled at 6K+ feet against the wind.

All diesels have a narrow power band compared to a gas motor.

 

[POPO AGIE]

Axis unit is just some standard fittings put together into a nice package. Worked well, but disappointing when I figured out how overpriced it was.

What sending unit did you buy for the Dakota Digital interface?

 

[POPO AGIE]

Last October my fan quit working on a road trip.
Tested stuff at home: Fan was good, relay was good, my wires were all good, but the signal from the Cummins computer to the relay wasn't happening. Don't know if it was a broken wire in the OE harness or the computer itself, but I replaced it all with This thing wired into the same relay I had there in the first place.
You might think about doing that from the beginning, would make it cleaner to have a 5A fuse in the connection between power and this thing and the relay. It would also be easy to work a switch in with this if you wanted to turn the fan on early or something.
I used the 180°on/65°off version.

I just ordered the same one with the wiring kit.

 

[rossl]

What sending unit did you buy for the Dakota Digital interface?

I used the included oil pressure gauge included with the kit. I also have the J-1939 CAN module (BIM-01-2-J1939) to pull data off the computer, and a boost module BIM-03-2 with SEN-09-06. I’m hoping that the Murphy gauge provided with the engine is temporary, I have no plans on mounting it long term beyond startup and the first few runs.

 

[POPO AGIE]

I used the included oil pressure gauge included with the kit. I also have the J-1939 CAN module (BIM-01-2-J1939) to pull data off the computer, and a boost module BIM-03-2 with SEN-09-06. I’m hoping that the Murphy gauge provided with the engine is temporary, I have no plans on mounting it long term beyond startup and the first few runs.

I don't really want the Murphy gauge either. I was thinking about getting the diesel ignition switch when I get a new set of locks to energize the grid heater if it is doable. I lost my keys years ago with the moves from Wyoming to PA and back.

When I was looking for the port for the block heater I did see the sensor on the intake manifold which I was glad to see. Looks like will only need a Pyrometer since I can use the DD system to track the boost.

 

[C6H12O6]

A little late to the party, but this worked great for me, so I'll share. I used one of the tools shown below to get the shape of the bottom of the transfer case (Orion, but shouldn't matter what it is), then cut a piece of wood to have the same shape and attached it to the top of the transmission jack. I just screwed into the bottom of the wood through a hole in the jack plate. It wasn't a perfect fit, but it worked great to keep the round bottom from sliding around and walking off the jack. Once ratchet strapped down front and back, it was rock solid.