When Cold is Tool Cold For a Diesel to Start? (1 Viewer)

[Bad Mojo]

Had the diesel Land Cruiser in this a case a KZJ78 have a no start after sitting out in cold yesterday at work. Average temp was 5 degrees F. I am not surprised it didn't start, but I am also seeing in this forum that people are starting down in the negatives. I understand there are several factors here that are allowing that, and I am trying to determine what my next steps are for this truck even if that is it stays in the garage when it is below a certain temperature and a different truck is taken. Or is it time to load up the shopping cart and get to adding parts. Additionally, I understand this might be a service/maintance issue and will run through some tests once the truck is back at the house.

Information I am after.
- Engine Model
- What is the coldest you rely on it starting?
- Are you running a some kind of plug-in heater?
- If yes for how long before starting?
- Are you running a diesel heater like a Webasto or Espar?
- Is you truck equipped with a cold spec package from the factory?
- Are you treating your fuel more than how it is treated from the fuel station?

 

[mudgudgeon]

Extra glow cycles, add fuel when cranking with the pedal

I'll second this.
Cycle the glow system a couple of times. 2 or 3 times before starting.
I've had a 1hd-t (24 volt start) and echo others comments. It started fine down to -5 to 10⁰c.
24volt start, if would fire on the first compresssion stroke, and run rough for a few minutes until there was some heat in the head.

If both batteries aren't 100%, the bad one will drag the good one down, and you end up with two bad batteries in short order.
Test battery voltage under load, ie, when someone turns the key to start.
Cold exacerbates this for sure.

Also owned a 1hz with dual battery, 12volt start.
It also started fine in sub-freezing conditions, but it definitely needed the glow plugs to be cycled.
I eventually went back to single 12 volt battery system, and saw no difference. I got sick of coughing up to replace two dead batteries every time the car was left idle for a couple of months.

Beyond checking glow of system is functioning as it should, basic maintenance can help. Fresh filters, injectors in spec etc.

I'd also suggest check the injection pump timing is in spec.

I've never used any fuel additives beyond just using winter blend fuels.

I only had a fuel filter come loose once after a full day on corrugated dirt roads. Car stalled out due to air in fuel.
Nipped it up tight again by hand, and never had an issue again. I figure it wasn't quite snug last time i replaced it.

 

[bj70bc]

Its been said but...
1) glows -confirm glow system, use multiple glow cycles, manual glows is a very good option for this as you can feather it once started as well
2) fuel -air in fuel or jelling, go through to confirm no air intrusion and use a diesel additive, new filter etc
3) batteries- keep them on a battery tender especially in a 2 battery system
4) get multiple heat options, block heater, oil pan heater, in line coolant heater, wabasto etc, there are magnetic pan heaters that are a nice supplement

that said my 3b has never been an issue, but i heat it to be nice

 

[Dusten]

I only had a fuel filter come loose once after a full day on corrugated dirt roads. Car stalled out due to air in fuel.
Nipped it up tight again by hand, and never had an issue again. I figure it wasn't quite snug last time i replaced it.

I was thinking this too. Carrying a spare filter and instructions because you had a very random failure is a bit excessive. Before you know it you're towing a spare land cruiser in case your land cruiser fails.

 

[Ditcherman]

I was thinking this too. Carrying a spare filter and instructions because you had a very random failure is a bit excessive. Before you know it you're towing a spare land cruiser in case your land cruiser fails.

This is why we don't tighten filters according to instructions, we actually tighten them.
Torque specs are for lug bolts, and then only if you have less than 6.

 

[David*BJ70]

A good decade ago, my 330 000k, 12V ex-BJ70 would start up at -25C, perhaps sometimes less.

I had to do 2 glowplug cycles. The engine seemed to have a square crankshaft and exhaled a significant amount of white smoke for a short moment. It was like a show for my neighbors!

... but it started and it took forever to heat up.

 

[Bad Mojo]

If all electrical components are sound as mentioned above, then suspect fuel.
Cold will make holding a vaccum in the fuel delivery system tougher because rubber becomes stiff, and any defect will allow air into the lines/filter etc.
YOU need to smell and or see fuel at the exhaust in what I call a cold snap(-30C/-20F)
or colder.
Extra glow cycles, add fuel when cranking with the pedal or add fuel conditioner if you suspect icing of your fuel if everything else is in good shape.
No fuel=No start.
If she is chugging you can help by holding the key a little longer...the chugging and starter can help each other.
Only-28C here today and both the HZJ75 and Hdj80 fire up.

To clarify on the see fuel in the exhaust do you mean like out the tail pipe? Or are you running clear fuel line somewhere? I take it as you have to know diesel is making it all the way past injectors.

Different perspective and thought i would share. I have had several diesels ( 2H, w123, 7.3) all suffered from cold start issues, even ones with 24v starters. 24v systems were worse. Even using new batteries with same build date, they fought each other and drained. Anytime the temps dipped my worry meter went up. Getting to and from work was getting the to be a chore. When it came to building a cruiser for trips, i thought hard about it. Love diesels for most reasons folks do. The cold start issues had me think hard. I did not want to get stuck somewhere due to the above reasons. I am not planning any trips to Alaska in the winter where it stresses out any platform. I decided to stay gasoline and LS. Simplifies alot of things for me. I know this is not an engine swap thread, but thought I would share.

It is funny you bring this up because I thought about this when to start our pickup to go trouble shoot the Prado. That truck has a LS in it and had been sitting outside during all of the weather and it happily cranked over and got me to where I needed to go with no fuss. This is all driving my thoughts on the re-power for the 40. I only want one unique engine in the fleet. The 40 will get a much more common Toyota engine. Don't get me wrong I like having that truck, but it has a set of unique constraints that require additional fore thought. Or maybe this is a reason to get another diesel Land Cruiser because it will be more efficient....

I was thinking this too. Carrying a spare filter and instructions because you had a very random failure is a bit excessive. Before you know it you're towing a spare land cruiser in case your land cruiser fails.

I understand that point, and most of this can get mitigated out by continuing to go through more systems and continue baselining. A fuel filter is in the same category as jumper cables and a spare tire for me. Fast fixes if available. But I agree carrying parts can get excessive if not carefully watched over.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Diesel is also more expensive than gasoline. I dont buy it is more fuel savings. For some rolling coal is where its at

 

[Squash]

To clarify on the see fuel in the exhaust do you mean like out the tail pipe? Or are you running clear fuel line somewhere? I take it as you have to know diesel is making it all the way past injectors.

It is funny you bring this up because I thought about this when to start our pickup to go trouble shoot the Prado. That truck has a LS in it and had been sitting outside during all of the weather and it happily cranked over and got me to where I needed to go with no fuss. This is all driving my thoughts on the re-power for the 40. I only want one unique engine in the fleet. The 40 will get a much more common Toyota engine. Don't get me wrong I like having that truck, but it has a set of unique constraints that require additional fore thought. Or maybe this is a reason to get another diesel Land Cruiser because it will be more efficient....

I understand that point, and most of this can get mitigated out by continuing to go through more systems and continue baselining. A fuel filter is in the same category as jumper cables and a spare tire for me. Fast fixes if available. But I agree carrying parts can get excessive if not carefully watched over.

Tail pipe! No smoke/no smell= no fuel. No fuel = No combustion.
Spent many years starting Toyota's in winter, as well as other mining diesels.

 

[Dusten]

To clarify on the see fuel in the exhaust do you mean like out the tail pipe? Or are you running clear fuel line somewhere? I take it as you have to know diesel is making it all the way past injectors.

It is funny you bring this up because I thought about this when to start our pickup to go trouble shoot the Prado. That truck has a LS in it and had been sitting outside during all of the weather and it happily cranked over and got me to where I needed to go with no fuss. This is all driving my thoughts on the re-power for the 40. I only want one unique engine in the fleet. The 40 will get a much more common Toyota engine. Don't get me wrong I like having that truck, but it has a set of unique constraints that require additional fore thought. Or maybe this is a reason to get another diesel Land Cruiser because it will be more efficient....

I understand that point, and most of this can get mitigated out by continuing to go through more systems and continue baselining. A fuel filter is in the same category as jumper cables and a spare tire for me. Fast fixes if available. But I agree carrying parts can get excessive if not carefully watched over.

Fast fix? Then surely you carry an oil filter. A trans filter. An air filter.

The fuel filter has a drain, so if its got water in fuel drain it. If its lose, just tighten it.

 

[Dusten]

Diesel is also more expensive than gasoline. I dont buy it is more fuel savings. For some rolling coal is where its at

It is. But where I am based on average fuel mileage, the cost per mile of diesel is .06 less when comparing a gas 4.5 1FZE to my 1HDT

 

[OM617YOTA]

Not much cold start experience here. My 1kzte has started at 24F effortlessly. I really like the high idle function, gets things warm fast.

OM617 started fine at 15F. Glow plugs good and on manual control, valves properly adjusted, 5w-40 oil. It really needed the glow plugs, even under normal circumstances it wouldn't start without them until it was nearly at operating temp. Nearly 300k miles on it.

I carry a spare fuel filter too, and been thankful for it.

 

[AirheadNut]

One other thing I forgot to mention: I’ve never used any kind of fuel treatment or anti gelling agent. The coldest I’ve started one of my diesels is -25°F, when it got town to -42°F last winter a neighbor had the fuel gel in his F250, I didn’t bother trying to start the LandCruiser. In general the winter fuel mix around here (Western MT) is good enough for most winter weather.

 

[ikarus]

1HDFT. I removed my glow screen but haven't got around to a Webasto or block heater yet. I've started my 80 as low as 20 F or so but it's not happy with no glow. haha.

It has to crank a little longer than normal and it takes a while to smooth out. Last time I did it some guy was walking his dog straight through my exhaust cloud and with an exaggerated nose-holding reaction he tried to make it very clear to me how disappointed he was

 

[NOSAJ]

I’m new to Toyota diesels. I just now have a running 2H in my hj45 so still learning it.

I have 2 old Isuzu diesels over cab. One has a v plow on it for plowing snow. I treat all my fuel because it gelled up on us once. If they have good batteries they always start.

‘01 ford 7.3 has very very bad injectors. So bad it has to be plugged in even in the summer time. If it’s plugged in it starts.

‘12 ford with the 6.7 has no block heater and it starts no matter what.

All plow snow for our business. I’ve been told of course gas would be a better plow truck but there’s something about a diesel.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Fast fix? Then surely you carry an oil filter. A trans filter. An air filter.

The fuel filter has a drain, so if its got water in fuel drain it. If its lose, just tighten it.

If it breaks, bypass it

 

[Dusten]

If it breaks, bypass it

Bingo

 

[mudgudgeon]

he tried to make it very clear to me how disappointed he was

 

[svandore10]

Had the diesel Land Cruiser in this a case a KZJ78 have a no start after sitting out in cold yesterday at work. Average temp was 5 degrees F. I am not surprised it didn't start, but I am also seeing in this forum that people are starting down in the negatives. I understand there are several factors here that are allowing that, and I am trying to determine what my next steps are for this truck even if that is it stays in the garage when it is below a certain temperature and a different truck is taken. Or is it time to load up the shopping cart and get to adding parts. Additionally, I understand this might be a service/maintance issue and will run through some tests once the truck is back at the house.

Information I am after.
- Engine Model
- What is the coldest you rely on it starting?
- Are you running a some kind of plug-in heater?
- If yes for how long before starting?
- Are you running a diesel heater like a Webasto or Espar?
- Is you truck equipped with a cold spec package from the factory?
- Are you treating your fuel more than how it is treated from the fuel station?

-The truck is hilux 1996 with 2L n/a diesel, it starts just fine, the coldest I experienced was around -15
-Im not running any heater nor diesel additive, I think here in Slovakia diesel is fairly good for general use in truck or tractors
-im not sure about any kind of cold spec package on mu truck, heater works good but nothing expectional
-From time to time I use some kind of diesel additive my friend gave me before
But my main point is this picture which can help lot of users with cold starting old diesel