What you need to know about 100 series aftermarket wheel options (1 Viewer)

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Both front and rear spacers come from Spidertrax with the hub-centric orienting ring.
It is the flange sticking up above the central
1620654980961.png
Front and Rear spacer.jpg
Front spacer.jpg
Rear spacer.jpg
open space inside the lug nuts.
For the front spacers Slee has machined away some of the material from this ring in order to clear the protrusions of the drive flange.
1620654980961.png


When installing the front spacer it will only fit in one of the five possible orientations, so one must carefully place it over the lug nuts and test it.
If it does not clear the drive flange, with no force, then remove it and rotate it 60 degrees and test it again.
It will be obvious when it fits properly.
 
Okay, Which company makes a 17 inch wheel with a +10- +25 offset in 5x150 that will clear the front hub mess? Also, it would be nice if you can still buy them new. All I'm finding are 16 and 18 inch wheels and really hate both sizes, lol.
This might be a good start for you...

 
This might be a good start for you...

Looked through it, seems to be a thread from 2012 only talking about Rock Warriors. There has to be newer updated aftermarket wheels after almost a decade.
 
Anyone running these Vision wheels? They come in 17x9 with +12mm offset.
 
Looked through it, seems to be a thread from 2012 only talking about Rock Warriors. There has to be newer updated aftermarket wheels after almost a decade.

 
I may be a bit wrong on the details in my description above.
The thin ring on the spacers face outward, the same side as the lugs
The spacers fit over a similar ring on the hub, which centers the spacer on the hub.
The ring and the machined ring on the spacers fit outward and mate into an indentation on the wheel, which centers the wheel on the spacer, similar to how the wheel is centered on the hub without the spacer.
The machining on the front spacer is still needed to clear the drive flange, I believe. It has been a few years.
 
Okay, Which company makes a 17 inch wheel with a +10- +25 offset in 5x150 that will clear the front hub mess? Also, it would be nice if you can still buy them new. All I'm finding are 16 and 18 inch wheels and really hate both sizes, lol.
If they made a wheel that cleared the “hub mess” you wouldnt likely have any research to do as it would be the forum gold standard of what new wheels guys got every week. Think about the process that bora/spridertraxx has to do to enable the spacers to clear. Think they’d want to do that to wheel only to have it sellable to the few lc nerds (us on on this forum) that have champagne taste and miller high life budget.

cost, effort, and target market make this unicorn of a wheel a production non mover. Get spacers
 
Just installed Method 704 17s with 0mm offset along with 285/70 17 Wildpeaks. Need the basic mods of the fender well of lower bottom to prevent rubbing on turning but hoping I don't need to replace the wheels with some positive offset version. Anybody have experience with this configuration?

View attachment 2668267
Did you have to use a wheel spacer on the front so the center bore of the wheel doesn’t hit the front hub flange nuts?
 
Okay, Which company makes a 17 inch wheel with a +10- +25 offset in 5x150 that will clear the front hub mess? Also, it would be nice if you can still buy them new. All I'm finding are 16 and 18 inch wheels and really hate both sizes, lol.
Some that come to mind:

Evo Corse (semi-custom)
Hutchinson DOT beadlocks

Icon wheels has several models that will fit (but maybe not the front center caps). Unfortunately, the Vector 5 model doesn't fit without modification to the wheel or additional spacers.
 
Great thread! Lots of good details and thanks for sharing. Got another one for you……

I have a LX470 2006 with factory tires and wheels. 18x8 5x150 +60 offset 110.1 bore. Tires are 275/60R/18. I put a 3” Old Man Emu lift on it and looking to upgrade tires. I’m looking at replacing the rims with Icon Rebound rims 17x8.5 5x150 +25 offset 110.1 bore and using the BFG A/T KO2 285/75R/17.
Will the new BFG KO2 tire fit on a 17x8.5 rim? I believe the rim says the width range is 7.5-9.5 but not entirely sure.
And with the difference in offset will I need a spacer? Using ReadyLift calculator it’s says the change in tire and rim gives an additional 0.72” inner space, tire outward extension by an additional 1.21” and increase in diameter by 2.84”.
I think the new tire and wheel will fit without spacers and pinch weld mods but thought I’d ask and see if anyone has thoughts or experience. Thanks all
 
Hey Hundyheads! I've been getting a good amount of questions about aftermarket wheel fitment, stance, and tire size options. This thread will share all of the information I have through my research and first hand experience. I will address in a general way wheel sizes, offsets, and tire options that worked for me. This should give you enough information to make an informed decision when it comes to what you are considering. Use my example as base line numbers and do the math for sizes you are considering. It should give you a good idea if you are going to have fitment issues.

Before we get started you should have a very good idea on how you plan on using your hundy. Heavy off road? Pavement princess? Do you have a certain tire size that you want to run? Research your tires first for your application. Bigger tires do not work well with most aftermarket wheels and a fully compressed suspension. Even if your hundy will be a pavement princess you can run into situations that will bottom out your suspension and cause damage by bending fender lips and tearing out wheel well liners. You may find aftermarket is not an option for the tire application you need.

Some may say...I'm going to run a lift that will prevent issues with bigger tires. Unfortunately, a lift will not keep your hundy from bending up that pretty sheet metal with a poor wheel and tire choice. If it will rub at stock height it will rub lifted. The only thing a lift does is start your suspension travel in a higher location and it still bottoms out in the same position as stock. Even with the added stiffer torsion bars and springs you will bottom out in the same stock location. It is much harder to bottom out with the lift and stiff components but you can still do damage when you do bottom out. A body lift will help to gain the extra clearance you need for large size applications.

Whats the wheel problem?

The 100 series Land Cruiser and LX470 have a very narrow window for wheel offsets and tire sizes. Throw in our protruding front hub and there are very few aftermarket wheels that will work with our vehicles. Most every aftermarket wheel that will fit is mainly produced to fit the Toyota Tundra. Luckily we share the same bolt pattern of 5x150 and from the factory use similar offsets ranging from +40mm to +55mm. The bad news is most aftermarket Tundra wheels have an offset around +25mm to +0mm. The Tundra is far more forgiving of lower offset than the 100 and this is the rub. Lower number + offset means that the wheel sticks out towards the fender. This can cause rubbing and clearance issues. To add to the problem finding an aftermarket wheel that is the stock 8 inches wide is nearly impossible. Most options will be at least 9 inches wide. This adds to the offset dilemma and decreases the already low offset wheel choices by 12.7mm. This puts things even closer to rubbing with your front fenders.

The conservative solution:

Whether you are choosing 16,17 or 18 inch wheels keep the offset +20mm or higher if running a 9 inch wide wheel. If you find a 8 inch wide wheel you can decrease your offset accordingly or increase tire width. I call this a conservative solution because running a wheel in this offset range limits you to a conservative tire size. I run a 275/70/18 on a 18x9 fuel wheel with a +20mm offset on my LX. It is on the edge of just fitting and required some minor modifications to avoid rubbing. This is what I consider to be safe. People will say you can go wider tires or lower offset but my experience with the fitment on my LX says different. I would not go lower offset or wider tire. This is conservative fitment of an aftermarket wheel that will work on a 100 series. If you want a wider tire you need either a 8 inch wheel, a shorter tire or a higher offset. Stock wheels are well suited for big tire options.

Modifications needed:

Any wheel you choose will likely need front center cap modification. The fuel wheels have a high cap and still required half inch poly washers to space the caps to fit. Keep it in mind when looking at wheels if you want to run caps.

The front fender liner will need to be remolded and flattened with a heat gun against the lower pinch weld. Easy fix.

The front fender liner where it attaches in the 12 o'clock position just inside the fender by a retainer clip needs to be pushed up flat against the inside fender. The retainer holds the liner and attaches it to a metal tab that will rub under full compression unless you push up and flat against the inner fender. Leave the liner attached when pushing up. You can do it with your fingers or block of wood.

This is how they fit.
Front
20170305_165205-L.jpg


Rear
20170305_165412-L.jpg


Fuel Trophy 18x9 +20 BFG AT 275/70/18
AHC on H

20170219_162312-L.jpg


Happy Trails!
 
Hey JayM: are you running spacers at all, or is that how it just fits/looks with +20 offset?
I was thinking of getting 0 offset Methods, but trying to keep it more flush with fender. Thanks!
 
@AU Bushbasher Your proposed combination will fit without spacers but maybe a little modification to the plastic liner and pinch weld. The front center cap won't fit as is. Tire size is fine on those wheels.
 
@AU Bushbasher Your proposed combination will fit without spacers but maybe a little modification to the plastic liner and pinch weld. The front center cap won't fit as is. Tire size is fine on those wheels.
Cheers mate! I appreciate the feedback, I’m even getting excited this might work! You mention the front wheel center caps won’t fit, Icon website says the same. Icon website also recommends ‘cap spacers’ by Icon of course. They are 0.375”, 5x150. They are made from 3D printed HDPE so I assume these aren’t hub spacers!? Hahaha. And I’m sure I will need some mods to the pinch weld and liner. Any comments on ‘cap spacers’ and if they will finish the job the right way? Thanks for your feedback. This is so cool!!


Off-road Explore while we can!
 
@AU Bushbasher Cheers! I don't have personal experience with these wheels but I'm sure you can work out the the finer details. Report back when figure it out. Contribute what you can to the forum.
 
Hey Hundyheads! I've been getting a good amount of questions about aftermarket wheel fitment, stance, and tire size options. This thread will share all of the information I have through my research and first hand experience. I will address in a general way wheel sizes, offsets, and tire options that worked for me. This should give you enough information to make an informed decision when it comes to what you are considering. Use my example as base line numbers and do the math for sizes you are considering. It should give you a good idea if you are going to have fitment issues.

Before we get started you should have a very good idea on how you plan on using your hundy. Heavy off road? Pavement princess? Do you have a certain tire size that you want to run? Research your tires first for your application. Bigger tires do not work well with most aftermarket wheels and a fully compressed suspension. Even if your hundy will be a pavement princess you can run into situations that will bottom out your suspension and cause damage by bending fender lips and tearing out wheel well liners. You may find aftermarket is not an option for the tire application you need.

Some may say...I'm going to run a lift that will prevent issues with bigger tires. Unfortunately, a lift will not keep your hundy from bending up that pretty sheet metal with a poor wheel and tire choice. If it will rub at stock height it will rub lifted. The only thing a lift does is start your suspension travel in a higher location and it still bottoms out in the same position as stock. Even with the added stiffer torsion bars and springs you will bottom out in the same stock location. It is much harder to bottom out with the lift and stiff components but you can still do damage when you do bottom out. A body lift will help to gain the extra clearance you need for large size applications.

Whats the wheel problem?

The 100 series Land Cruiser and LX470 have a very narrow window for wheel offsets and tire sizes. Throw in our protruding front hub and there are very few aftermarket wheels that will work with our vehicles. Most every aftermarket wheel that will fit is mainly produced to fit the Toyota Tundra. Luckily we share the same bolt pattern of 5x150 and from the factory use similar offsets ranging from +40mm to +55mm. The bad news is most aftermarket Tundra wheels have an offset around +25mm to +0mm. The Tundra is far more forgiving of lower offset than the 100 and this is the rub. Lower number + offset means that the wheel sticks out towards the fender. This can cause rubbing and clearance issues. To add to the problem finding an aftermarket wheel that is the stock 8 inches wide is nearly impossible. Most options will be at least 9 inches wide. This adds to the offset dilemma and decreases the already low offset wheel choices by 12.7mm. This puts things even closer to rubbing with your front fenders.

The conservative solution:

Whether you are choosing 16,17 or 18 inch wheels keep the offset +20mm or higher if running a 9 inch wide wheel. If you find a 8 inch wide wheel you can decrease your offset accordingly or increase tire width. I call this a conservative solution because running a wheel in this offset range limits you to a conservative tire size. I run a 275/70/18 on a 18x9 fuel wheel with a +20mm offset on my LX. It is on the edge of just fitting and required some minor modifications to avoid rubbing. This is what I consider to be safe. People will say you can go wider tires or lower offset but my experience with the fitment on my LX says different. I would not go lower offset or wider tire. This is conservative fitment of an aftermarket wheel that will work on a 100 series. If you want a wider tire you need either a 8 inch wheel, a shorter tire or a higher offset. Stock wheels are well suited for big tire options.

Modifications needed:

Any wheel you choose will likely need front center cap modification. The fuel wheels have a high cap and still required half inch poly washers to space the caps to fit. Keep it in mind when looking at wheels if you want to run caps.

The front fender liner will need to be remolded and flattened with a heat gun against the lower pinch weld. Easy fix.

The front fender liner where it attaches in the 12 o'clock position just inside the fender by a retainer clip needs to be pushed up flat against the inside fender. The retainer holds the liner and attaches it to a metal tab that will rub under full compression unless you push up and flat against the inner fender. Leave the liner attached when pushing up. You can do it with your fingers or block of wood.

This is how they fit.
Front
20170305_165205-L.jpg


Rear
20170305_165412-L.jpg


Fuel Trophy 18x9 +20 BFG AT 275/70/18
AHC on H

20170219_162312-L.jpg


Happy Trails!
JayM (and everyone else), thank you for all of the great information. I'm lifting my 100 with an OME 2.5 kit and I want to go with Fuel Shoks (with the same KO2s you are running) on mine as they come in the exact same size and offset you are running on yours. How much is your truck lifted and which kit did you go with? TIA!
 
JayM (and everyone else), thank you for all of the great information. I'm lifting my 100 with an OME 2.5 kit and I want to go with Fuel Shoks (with the same KO2s you are running) on mine as they come in the exact same size and offset you are running on yours. How much is your truck lifted and which kit did you go with? TIA!
My current setup.

64533060394__70E4C14E-DB64-4320-857E-B2251D861020.JPG
 

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