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Since this is meant to be a guide, I'll throw my 2c in... based on my experience...
1. The tire/rim (wheel) combination is not a perfect cylinder. (duh).
2. Tires sizes don't tell the whole story. A 275/70R18 tire is 275mm wide, at the most bulbous part of the sidewall (section width), at a given rim width. The tread width can vary widely between 200-250mm.
3.The most crucial measurement, besides diameter is tread width.... and is rarely stated in the tires' specifications. It is crucial because it is the "shoulder" of the tire that usually first makes contact/interference with other parts of the vehicle. The section width can also make contact with the UCA but this is rather easy to remedy because the UCA moves up/down along with the tire during the suspension cycle.
4. If you take two identical tires and mount one on an 8" rim and one on a 9" rim (both with the same offset), The two tires shoulders will be in the same position, as the tire is centered on the rim. The 9" rim will indeed stick out 1/2" on both sides but it is nowhere near the critical interference point, the upper control arm. What will happen in this scenario, the section width will move out approximately 1/4" in both directions. Why only 1/4"? Because the tire tread width is fixed. Moving the rim 1/2" out does not move the sidewall 1/2" out, only about half as much.
Since this is meant to be a guide, I'll throw my 2c in... based on my experience...
1. The tire/rim (wheel) combination is not a perfect cylinder. (duh).
2. Tires sizes don't tell the whole story. A 275/70R18 tire is 275mm wide, at the most bulbous part of the sidewall (section width), at a given rim width. The tread width can vary widely between 200-250mm.
3.The most crucial measurement, besides diameter is tread width.... and is rarely stated in the tires' specifications. It is crucial because it is the "shoulder" of the tire that usually first makes contact/interference with other parts of the vehicle. The section width can also make contact with the UCA but this is rather easy to remedy because the UCA moves up/down along with the tire during the suspension cycle.
4. If you take two identical tires and mount one on an 8" rim and one on a 9" rim (both with the same offset), The two tires shoulders will be in the same position, as the tire is centered on the rim. The 9" rim will indeed stick out 1/2" on both sides but it is nowhere near the critical interference point, the upper control arm. What will happen in this scenario, the section width will move out approximately 1/4" in both directions. Why only 1/4"? Because the tire tread width is fixed. Moving the rim 1/2" out does not move the sidewall 1/2" out, only about half as much.
SCS bud,
Perfect 16" rim for a hundy, AND no need to worry about center caps.
These belong to fellow MUDders,
F5
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Yes that's the one for the LC or LX,
I don't have them yet but send a PM or email the guy at SCS,
He is very helpful...
I'm sure they would be fine for whatever your going to carry and do with your LC.
The other option is search for the 98-01? Stock 16" wheels.
Yup they are hub centric specifically for the LC. I do think you need new lug nuts though, ask him to be sure.
Most guys run the 285s with no issues, I do believe a little massaging of some plastic fender liner is needed sometimes though.
..is that Correct?
I ran 295/75/16 ko2s on the SCS f5s and always had a little rub on the pinch weld and mud guards. I ended up trimming the guards and flattening the plastic over the pinch weld but I still always had some rub mid turn and at full lock. When I had the same tires on factory wheels I had zero rub. That +10 offset is just a little much in my opinion. I wish they were +20 or +30. I'm not sure how a 285/75 would have been. I think going to a 35 on the SCS with that offset would be tough. Probably have to do a body lift and extended bump stops.
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Lots of great info in here from all sides, love these kind of discussions and love to see what fits and what hits in the real world while being used etc... I have two 100's and one 200. I run the setup you described above on my 200(I know this discussion is about 100's7. The 200 series suffers similar issues at +20 with the 9 inch wheel and a 285. It will rub.
I actually ended up selling the wheels and tires here on the classifieds a few weeks ago. I loved the KO2s and would have went with them again if they made them in the size I wanted. I wanted to go with a taller narrower tire and a wheel with more positive offset. I decided on Rock Warriors and Cooper ST Maxx in 285/75/17. I really like this setup. I am running a lift pushing droop to the acceptable limit. I also run SPC UCAS and I'm at almost +4* of caster, I know that may have a little to do with the pinch weld rub I had with the 295s, but I'm not sure how much.
But please don't get me wrong, I'm not knocking the SCS wheels. They are lightweight, hubcentric, and they look awesome on a 100, they just didn't work with the direction I wanted to go.
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295/75/16 KO2s mounted on SCS wheels VS. 285/75/17 Cooper ST Maxx mounted on Rock Warriors
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Lots of great info in here from all sides, love these kind of discussions and love to see what fits and what hits in the real world while being used etc... I have two 100's and one 200. I run the setup you described above on my 200(I know this discussion is about 100's) but just wanted to clarify that setup works on the 200 series. Unless you were talking about it rubbing on the mudflap and lower inner plastic fender parts? It does not hit the fender and clears it for a full tuck(no additional bumpstops). After removing the mudflaps and cutting out some of the lower inner plastic lining I have zero rubbing. On my LX I roll a 18x8.5 with a 35mm offset and 33x12.50's, haven't had the LX offroad much(I'll take it out soon and flex it up and report back on rubbing) as I just got it so the jury is still out on if those will rub or not, so far no rubbing. Anyway just adding in my a couple of examples of wheel/tire combos!
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