What is your favorite way to change a clutch?

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Dec 2, 2014
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Missoula, Montana
Ive done lots of clutches on older subarus and newer toyotas, but have never changed one on an FJ40.

I have a 1972 fj40 with the original drivetrain. The clutch, throwout bearing, pilot bearing. pressure plate, rear main seal, and oil pan seal need to be replaced. I plan on replacing the rear main using the oil pan and crank bearing cap removal method. I have an air over hydraulic cherrypicker and can get a transmission jack if needed.

To those who have done it, whats the easiest way to go about this job?
1. Remove trans and xfer case from the bottom using a trans jack. Leave trans hump in place.
2. Remove trans and xfer case from the top by removing the transmission hump and using a cherrypicker.
3. Remove engine/trans/xfer all together through hood using a cherrypicker.

I was considering option 1 as my primary plan, with option 2 as a fallback plan. Let me know if I am heading down the easiest path.

Thanks for your input.
 
Ive done lots of clutches on older subarus and newer toyotas, but have never changed one on an FJ40.

I have a 1972 fj40 with the original drivetrain. The clutch, throwout bearing, pilot bearing. pressure plate, rear main seal, and oil pan seal need to be replaced. I plan on replacing the rear main using the oil pan and crank bearing cap removal method. I have an air over hydraulic cherrypicker and can get a transmission jack if needed.

To those who have done it, whats the easiest way to go about this job?
1. Remove trans and xfer case from the bottom using a trans jack. Leave trans hump in place.
2. Remove trans and xfer case from the top by removing the transmission hump and using a cherrypicker.
3. Remove engine/trans/xfer all together through hood using a cherrypicker.

I was considering option 1 as my primary plan, with option 2 as a fallback plan. Let me know if I am heading down the easiest path.

Thanks for your input.

@dlzadl and I were just having this debate. I used a cherry picker to lower my tranny and transfer from the top by myself Subscribed to hear others opinions.
 
Option 2

Easier to see it line up when putting back togeher

Easier to position right when swinging

Easier to work on by sitting in the tranny hump area
 
I recently removed my tranny and TC without removing the hump. Even with a lift and a tranny jack it was pretty tough. You have to remove the rear motor mounts and tip the engine down to get it out. Getting it out was easy compared to getting it back in. Its heavy and awkward. I had to have a helper.

If I do it again I will consider removing the hump and lowreing it down with an engine hoist
 
Thanks for the quick replies everyone. Sounds like I'll remove the hump and tackle it from above.
I also have a load leveler for the cherry picker - which should minimize cussing during the stab.
 
I concur on removing the hump. I was able to do by myself on a lift with a engine lift from the top. Took about 1/2 day from start to finish. Would have been easy with a helper to line things up, but possible on your own.
 
Sounds like I'll remove the hump and tackle it from above.
I also have a load leveler for the cherry picker - which should minimize cussing during the stab.[/QUOTE]

Smart choice !! Just did mine about a month ago by my self used a cheap hf trans jack not a bad job just take your time.
Good Luck
JP
 
1) Pay someone who is good.

Since they are few and far between...
2) Remove the Tranny hump and use tranny Jack to lift from below.

3) " " " " and use a cherry picker to lift from above.
 
Tranny hump, tow strap/large ratchet strap, cherry picker= child's play for 1 dude show.
 
So with option 2 removing the tranny hump I assume the hardtop has to come off as well? This job is down the road for me as well.
 
Combination of #1 and #2 for me; used trans jack from underneath but suspended from above with a ratchet strap hung from the roll cage, through the hump access panel.
 
Separate the transfer case from the trans first. It is easier to move the parts individually than trying to wrestle them as a whole assembly. To give you more room if working from above, as long as you have a roll cage, is to suspend the trans from the cage so you don't have to fight the cherry picker.
 
You just have to pull the seats/brackets/heater to pull the tranny hump ...

Tucker
Oh ok so the tranny/transfer will be dropped down and motor will not have to be lifted?
 
Separate the transfer case from the trans first. It is easier to move the parts individually than trying to wrestle them as a whole assembly. To give you more room if working from above, as long as you have a roll cage, is to suspend the trans from the cage so you don't have to fight the cherry picker.
This sounds crazy, have you ever separated a one piece transfer from a tranny ... this seriously sucks. Remove the tranny/xfer as one piece for a clutch job. Were you talking about a split case?

Oh ok so the tranny/transfer will be dropped down and motor will not have to be lifted?
Yup. You can use a cherry picker from above or tranny jack from below to drop it out.

Tucker
 
This sounds crazy, have you ever separated a one piece transfer from a tranny ... this seriously sucks. Remove the tranny/xfer as one piece for a clutch job. Were you talking about a split case? . . . Tucker

Sorry, I mis-spoke about pulling the transfer case first. What I meant was drop the trans and transfer case as one unit. However, when putting things back together it is easier to mount the trans by itself first then mount the transfer case to the trans. The offset weight of the transfer case makes it hard to align the trans into the pilot bearing if installed together.
 
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