What is a fair price for this 40 (1 Viewer)

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I am thinking about getting back in a LC after selling my 80 series a few years ago. I have not seen this truck in person, pictures look like there is some surface rust and paint is faded bad. I feel like the price is kind of high, any thoughts. I feel like the later years are more desirable but any reason to avoid a 65?

I will probably go look at it tomorrow out of curiosity.

http://www.rockstarmotorcars.com/19...sed-Antique/Nashville-TN/4787489/Details.aspx
 
Hard to tell from the poor quality pictures, but the body looks like it is in rough shape -- lots of bubbling, bondo, and painted-over rust likely.
 
Those giant rust bubbles on the rocker are not "surface rust". What I like least about it is the painted over window rollers. That shows me that whoever did the paint didn't care much. It's possible the engine was just pulled, resealed and painted. If I was buying to keep it as is, I'd want to do a compression test.

Worth? The tailgate is worth $500 and the tires and wheels are worth $800. The truck without them is probably worth about $4000. The dealer is probably trying to make $3k on it, so he probably paid about $6 and put a grand into cleaning it up.
 
I agree with Fast Eddy regarding the painted over stuff. I suspect there are many "issues" hiding. Rebuilt engine is such a generic term and really depends on what was done, and how. I bought a '70 model here in Ecuador that "was all original" and paid $6,500. It failed inspection the next day. I am sitting on about $20K now, haven't rebuilt the engine and would estimate that to do the engine and take the body off for strip and repaint would cost me another $10K. I suggest shying away from this one.
 
single circuit non-boosted drum brakes - deathtrap

and, a chain for a battery hold-down ? :rolleyes:
 
And the bezel is upside down. That should cost him.
 
Yea I went to look at it, body is pretty rough and agree that paint cover up is bad when you see rust bubbling underneath. It was hard to crank too, being rebuilt I would expect with the choke out and giving it gas it should turn over, got to the point where I was concerned about flooding it so I stopped - that doesn't equal a good rebuild motor in my book anyway...

I started to tell him the bezel was on wrong but I gave him enough grief over the body and motor not starting.

On to the next one.
 
I paid $1,500 for my 1969 and it was in better shape that this one. It ran and drove great until I got it in my garage and started the restoration process :) I would keep shopping.
 
Way to much money, body is going to have major rust problems. Good thing you walked away. A new rebuilt motor can be tight and hard to start, but anyone with any common sense would break the motor in a little before selling it, and for around 10k have it ready to start easily if someone was coming to look at it. That is why I usually ask them to not start it before I get there, I want the motor to feel cold so I can see it start cold. Some will start it and get the engine nice and warm so it start will when you look at it, then first time you get it home and it cools you find out how hard it is to start cold.
 
Single circuit brakes will have one reservoir and one brake line coming out of the brake master cylinder rather than 2 of each on later year models. I might be wrong but I believe the change over was 9/70.
 
Best thing you can do (in my opinion) is come to NM, pay 4500 to 7000 for a surface rust truck out here and pay 3k to haul it home or tow it back yourself. Worst part about a truck out here is the rubber. Ill take that any day over 200 broken bolts. Check out Albuquerque CL. There's one on there right now, a 76 mustard yellow for 4500 with no top
 
How can you tell the brakes are single circuit. ?

by the single reservoir on the brake master

Single circuit brakes will have one reservoir and one brake line coming out of the brake master cylinder rather than 2 of each on later year models. I might be wrong but I believe the change over was 9/70.

like he said
 

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