Want to de. Dmv and passed as a diesel, it's great to have her back on the road. 76 w/om617 and factory 4 speed. Runs fine, now can adjust and fine tune.
What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (25 Viewers)
- Thread starter IH8MUD
- Start date
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78fj40mg
TLCA #23510
From a 1983 Maintenance FSM:
View attachment 1129346
I think the only reason Toyota didn't put as nipple there is because they feared the inexperienced would fill the knuckles up too much and thus blow the inner axle seals. Which is a very valid fear IMO but Mike and I know what what we're doing (and know that the space inside should never be completely filled with grease) and hope our respective vehicles don't ever end up in the hands of clueless grease monkeys.
Edit: BTW - The grease is in the knuckle housing to lubricate both your swivel/kingpin/trunnion bearings and your birfield joints (CVs) .... as well as the balls and their wiper seals etc. It is important that it is neither too dry (and it tends to dry out over time so I sometimes add a squirt of oil) nor too wet and gooey (and this is a sign of a damaged inner axle seal).
I agree with Tom.
The Zerk fittings need to be used with caution when lubricating so the knuckle is not overcharged with grease to the point of blowing seals, the purpose of the Zerk is for ease of greasing the steering knuckle with out having to remove the knuckle plug. The knuckles need to be well lubricated in order to reduce friction and to avoid premature wear of the trunnion bearings and the birfields (Constant Velocity joints), so filling the knuckle cavity with grease is a no brainer as preventative maintenance, but you need to know when to stop pumping grease in the cavity.
78fj40mg
TLCA #23510
I was too cheap to spring $20 for a real rubber band to hold my tool bag in place under the driver's seat, so decided to just make one using a rubber vacuum hose and double threaded short rod that was approximately 1/4" in diameter. Here's how it turned out.
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78fj40mg
TLCA #23510
thebigredrocker
SILVER Star
I borrowed a timing light and got my SBC running stronger. It now runs excellent. Took my wife and 3 daughters for an evening cruise down a sleepy country road. First time with my entire crew riding along. They love the "Cruiser". Would not have been possible without the help of multiple Mud members assistance. Almost to the finish line.
Just be aware that those pads when cold will increase pedal effort and stopping distance a bit . Just have to hit them harder to create a bit of heat , then they bite like mad . I do like them for higher speeds like on an Interstate and around town once they are heated they are fine . They just create a bit of an unbalance in the system so make certain the rear drums are well adjusted .
Sarge
Sarge
oestlarsen
SILVER Star
Ready to dip! Looks sooty as hell but certain pieces look surprisingly new..
Will get the kit from Kurt as i do need the Jets (one stripped upon removal)
1911
chupacabra
The other thing I personally don't like about ceramic disc brake pads is that they wear out the rotors faster (that is why the pads last longer). Pads are cheaper and easier to replace than rotors.
I got the above the windshield, windshield washer to work, finally. At least one good thing an OP did was run a new hose to the OEM nozzle up there. Blew out the line and nozzle with air. Because I'm OCD or something, I replaced the aftermarket washer motor an OP had put in with a new Toyota washer motor that fits in the unique to 78 washer fluid/rad overflow bottles. I spent a lot of time cleaning the bottles, especially the rad overflow bottle which was pretty scuzzy. CLR, a bent up coat hanger and a rag attached to it, along with patience and elbow grease cleaned them up really nice. I thought I'd have to replace the rad overflow bottle.
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On a bit of a roll this week, Danny. I got my carb fan working too. Had the cooling fan motor rebuilt, and the cooling fan relay needed a new diode/resistor (whatever its called). Moved the manifold thermistor closer to the intake manifold. I'm running a header and the thermistor in the stock position seemed to be hanging in space.
Couldn't get it work. I was almost ready to throw in the rag and do the GA-Architect modern fix, but thought I'd take the whole truck to the tech who replaced the diode in the relay. Believe it or not there was to much crud on the pins on the harness connector that connects into the cooling fan relay. He cleaned them up and voila, it works like a charm. Perseverance and patience paid off!!!!
I have a backup cooling fan motor and cooling fan relay that I'm getting cleaned up/rebuilt. I don't trust 37 yr old parts.
The thread "fj40 cooling fan ... do you use yours?" from Jul/10 is an excellent resource!!! Coolerman helped me troubleshoot too. IH8MUD to the rescue, again.
Couldn't get it work. I was almost ready to throw in the rag and do the GA-Architect modern fix, but thought I'd take the whole truck to the tech who replaced the diode in the relay. Believe it or not there was to much crud on the pins on the harness connector that connects into the cooling fan relay. He cleaned them up and voila, it works like a charm. Perseverance and patience paid off!!!!
I have a backup cooling fan motor and cooling fan relay that I'm getting cleaned up/rebuilt. I don't trust 37 yr old parts.
The thread "fj40 cooling fan ... do you use yours?" from Jul/10 is an excellent resource!!! Coolerman helped me troubleshoot too. IH8MUD to the rescue, again.
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I am so, so happy with this.
Going to give it a rub down later and then shoot the UV resistant top coat but the results so far are just epic.
And being Father's Day, I've roped the wife into jumping on the tools to clean up the springs, spring plates and bash plates.
The only downside is that I'm now going to have to blast and paint the diffs when I do the swap.
From a rusted old frame with no rear crossmember rusted out rear frame rails...
...to sandblasted bare metal...
Going to give it a rub down later and then shoot the UV resistant top coat but the results so far are just epic.
And being Father's Day, I've roped the wife into jumping on the tools to clean up the springs, spring plates and bash plates.
The only downside is that I'm now going to have to blast and paint the diffs when I do the swap.
From a rusted old frame with no rear crossmember rusted out rear frame rails...
...to sandblasted bare metal...
...to an almost finished product.
I buried it fairly fast and endured being recovered by a Discovery. Oh the shame.
Ouch......
Fitted my new RTT yesterday with new racks that were for a VDJ79. Had to modify them a little to get them to fit but works well.
A few more updates from today.
The KBS rust guard, all cured up and ready to shoot the KBS Blacktop.
Then ready to shoot the chassis, springs and bash plates.
The KBS rust guard, all cured up and ready to shoot the KBS Blacktop.
Then ready to shoot the chassis, springs and bash plates.
And with the KBS Blacktop satin. A lovely finish and hopefully good for another few years.
And the gearbox bash plate installed with new hardware. Yessss!
And the gearbox bash plate installed with new hardware. Yessss!
