What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (49 Viewers)

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Found some new/used rubber to mount on the new/used steelies I got for Christmas.

Found a set of bfg ko's 31x10.5x15 with just enough tread for what I need at an appealing price.

Can't wait to replace the horrid after markets and the dryrotted rubber from 2002... Or maybe 1992... Yikes. Too bad because they have lots of tread left, just not appropriate to risk damaging during the removal reinstallation process.

@captain_m - your hubcaps will finally have a home! I guess I like to do things in the reverse order... Hubs before wheels before rubber... Paint change before mechanicals etc... Haha

The strange thing is the new ones are 31s and the old ones are 235s, yet they look to be similar height... I'm hoping I'll get some height/overdrive once they're pumped up ...

I'll post pics once installed. Very excited

ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1421848258.705960.webp
 
What radiator hoses did you end up using? I have searched (for the top at least) and have had trouble finding one using the Toyota part number (16571-56010). I think yours is the same as mine.

Sorry for the delay in getting back to you Wes. I've been away..
RadiatorHoses.webp


I use aftermarket Mackay-branded hoses and don't bother with OEM..

And yes ..Mackay CH1328 is equivalent to Toyota 16571-56010..

Here's some info from their catalog too:
Mackay.webp



:beer:
 
Steelies + shoes = happy me!

Finally ditched my 1980s aftermarket rims and old tires.

Put on my "new to me" steelies, freshly painted with rustoleum smoke gray.... And a set of 31"x10.5 galoshes mounted with letters-in (bfg ko a/t)

Couple big decisions coming up;
1) bling or no bling (hubcaps)
2) what kind of lug nuts
3) what color to paint the casing of the locking hub that's currently a pretty rust brown
4) what color to paint the rear drum that is exposed in the middle of the wheel when hubcap is off

I'm so psyched, those old cruddy rims were driving me crazy ever since I bought this guy... For some reason the rust doesn't bug me though... Go figure

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Found some new/used rubber to mount on the new/used steelies I got for Christmas.

Found a set of bfg ko's 31x10.5x15 with just enough tread for what I need at an appealing price.

Can't wait to replace the horrid after markets and the dryrotted rubber from 2002... Or maybe 1992... Yikes. Too bad because they have lots of tread left, just not appropriate to risk damaging during the removal reinstallation process.

@captain_m - your hubcaps will finally have a home! I guess I like to do things in the reverse order... Hubs before wheels before rubber... Paint change before mechanicals etc... Haha

The strange thing is the new ones are 31s and the old ones are 235s, yet they look to be similar height... I'm hoping I'll get some height/overdrive once they're pumped up ...

I'll post pics once installed. Very excited

View attachment 1020482
 
1) bling or no bling (hubcaps)
2) what kind of lug nuts
3) what color to paint the casing of the locking hub that's currently a pretty rust brown
4) what color to paint the rear drum that is exposed in the middle of the wheel when hubcap is off

Lookin' good!

1) bling
2) doesn't matter with #1, so just ones that work
3) black
4) black, but it doesn't matter with #1 so just paint the whole drum to stop it rusting.

5) that's not rust, it's patina.
 
Even today I'm still discovering the sins of the PO.
Rule #1: Do not drill or enlarge holes in your tub in order to fit an emblem!
Rule #2: Do not use glue to secure the emblem!
Rule #3: Do not fit the wrong emblem. Some emblems look alike but are not compatible!

Before:

IMG_4738.webp


Now that's better:

IMG_4745.webp
 
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Wire wheeled my drivers side step and primed it out. Also got to play with a sheet metal brake and made a rear sill cover.

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Installed a new NAPA fan belt for my Atlernator-A/C-Water Pump & Crank.....And now my Amp meter is working, more properly? How does changing a fan belt make the Amp Meter go from barely registering amps back to the battery to working more properly like Rudi's video?

Funny thing, when I got the old belt off, its shape was distorted. I can only surmize this distortion in the belt caused the issues?

None the less, I guess my 40 seems to like the new belt. :D
 
3) what color to paint the casing of the locking hub that's currently a pretty rust brown
Your #3 looks like a chrome beauty ring, completely rusted out. I'd take those off. They trap all sorts of junk that can stay wet months after a rain, leading to big rust problems. Based on how yours look, it's not going to be easy to remove them. Once off, wire wheel the hub (and lockout bodies if needed) and paint.
 
I haven't done a thing with mine, but saw a few Bandeirante's here in Rio de Janeiro...

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(Sorry for the reflection in that pic)
 
Where can I find the t bolt clamps for my FJ40?

Hi there Carreta

Repco have them if you're downunder (Australia & New Zealand)

:beer:
 
Getting stuck into doing the work I found needed doing after my recent 1500km trip..

My brake lights kept staying on so I've fitted a new pedal return spring that's roughly ten times stronger than the original:
BrakePedalReturnSpring10x.webp

And here's one of the radiator leaks. This one is in a new place on the top header tank. (I have only just finished repairing another one on the top tank.) :

OneA.webp


The trick appears to be to put a bit of heat there ...... and this will immediately shrink the solder away from the problem point (and reveal "the black crud" that prevented proper penetration when the joint was first soldered).

Then I continually brush out the crud with some decent flux until I can see the solder wanting to go creep back in by itself to seal the area.

This is the flux I use:
RadiatorSolderingFlux.webp


Then I add more solder and watch that no "popping holes" appear as I move the flame further away and let the solder slowly solidify. (If "popping holes" appear then repeat the whole process.)

And here is that one repaired (to my satisfaction anyway):
OneB.webp


I'm getting fed up with these leaks! And to my eye they appear to be all from poor initial soldering technique by my recore people.. Nothing I can do about it though (other than fix them MYSELF) because that radiator's been in service for quite a few years now since the recore.)


One thing new I've learnt with all this recent radiator repair work is that the owners manual is incorrect in saying the coolant system holds only 12.5 litre. This is already very close to 13 litres and I spilt probably 1/2 a litre and furthermore, it doesn't include what's in the reservoir:
Radiator13Litres.webp


:beer:
 

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