What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (33 Viewers)

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And this is the second leak (of the latest plague) and it's on the bottom tank ... which is quite unusual because it is not subjected to as much heat and vibration as the top tank:
TwoA.webp


Here's more of a close-up:
TwoB.webp


As I said before, bung a bit of heat on it and it opens up so you can see the problem much more clearly:

TwoC.webp


And here it is .....Done:
TwoD.webp


And here's me leak testing yet again with soap & water and with a bit of air pressure inside:
RadiatorLeakTesting.webp


I'll just go out and check the pressure hasn't fallen at all because I've been inside here at this silly computer for more than an hour now...

:beer:
 
You do great work Tom!!

Thanks Danny..

When I went out to check that the radiator wasn't losing air-pressure just now, it had risen to the limit of the radiator cap (0.9 Bar) because the sun had reached the radiator. LOL...

We're in the middle of a nation-wide heat wave ... while you people in States are hitting record lows so I hear on the news...

Here in Wellington I think we must be in the hottest Summer since records began because the other day they said "hottest since 1962" and it's continuing right through this week!!!

The world's gone crazy in so many ways right now eh!

All the best ...:)
 
I keep forgetting how HUGE the USA is..... One part can freeze while another remains quite pleasant...
 
Getting stuck into doing the work I found needed doing after my recent 1500km trip..

My brake lights kept staying on so I've fitted a new pedal return spring that's roughly ten times stronger than the original:
View attachment 1023130
And here's one of the radiator leaks. This one is in a new place on the top header tank. (I have only just finished repairing another one on the top tank.) :

View attachment 1023131

The trick appears to be to put a bit of heat there ...... and this will immediately shrink the solder away from the problem point (and reveal "the black crud" that prevented proper penetration when the joint was first soldered).

Then I continually brush out the crud with some decent flux until I can see the solder wanting to go creep back in by itself to seal the area.

This is the flux I use:
View attachment 1023129

Then I add more solder and watch that no "popping holes" appear as I move the flame further away and let the solder slowly solidify. (If "popping holes" appear then repeat the whole process.)

And here is that one repaired (to my satisfaction anyway):
View attachment 1023132

I'm getting fed up with these leaks! And to my eye they appear to be all from poor initial soldering technique by my recore people.. Nothing I can do about it though (other than fix them MYSELF) because that radiator's been in service for quite a few years now since the recore.)


One thing new I've learnt with all this recent radiator repair work is that the owners manual is incorrect in saying the coolant system holds only 12.5 litre. This is already very close to 13 litres and I spilt probably 1/2 a litre and furthermore, it doesn't include what's in the reservoir:
View attachment 1023128

:beer:
maybe you only needed to adjust the switch out a little
 
maybe you only needed to adjust the switch out a little

But that would lower my pedal height below spec.

Do you still run your original return-spring?

Mine seemed to be too weak for the job (with my booster boot winning the fight and stopping my pedal from hitting the stop-light switch).

I had already replaced the original spring with a slightly stronger one 6 years ago and now I've gone a lot stronger still..

It's not a case of the switch being "stiff to operate" either. The pedal tab just wasn't reaching it.

:beer:
 
Moved the FJ from storage to the drive way, moved the battery from the tender to the vehicle, installed a new starter and ordered an EZ Wiring Harness. It's time...:bang:
 
Nice! This is pretty much my plan, as well - someday...Dare I ask how much of the above that you used?

I don't remember how much of the primer I used, but for the rest:
2 gallons of sound control (2 coats sprayed)
2 gallons of ceramic insulation (2 coats sprayed)
1 gallon of monstaliner (roller)
 
Hi all,

Does anyone have a photo of the transmission tunnel cuts required to fit a 60 series, 5 speed in a HJ47?
 
I don't remember how much of the primer I used, but for the rest:
2 gallons of sound control (2 coats sprayed)
2 gallons of ceramic insulation (2 coats sprayed)
1 gallon of monstaliner (roller)

Where is the best place to purchase the Lizard Skin products? (Not familiar with them)
 
IMG_2409.webp


Cleaned up my bib, cleaned and repainted the grill mesh, new Toyota emblem and spring nuts, refurbished the diesel emblem and moved it to the correct side, cleaned and painted the headlight buckets and rings, new IPF headlights, and cleaned up the bezel (I may eventually change it out for a chrome one as that is what it came with originally). Used new hardware courtesy of davework.
 

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