That looks great. Nice job!
What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (18 Viewers)
- Thread starter IH8MUD
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I just was working on something cool, and I'll show ya'll that after I get her running again. But first, question. I put the 12v positive wire on the negative/signal side of the coil and tried to start it. After I realized my mistake, I'm getting nothing as far as spark. I fried that Pertronix 1662LS didn't I?
It's worth giving Pertronix a call for troubleshooting advice.
Skreddy
SILVER Star
Grandma drove over the mountains for a visit and said she’d watch the kids for the evening. OFY! Get in quick before she changes her mind! Dinner and a couple tall frosty beverages at the local bar. We even got to sit in the bar! And the Huskies are winning to boot!
The archeology continues. Discovered there isn’t a straight panel on my 40. Add that to the list, whatever, I got this. So many random patches. PO’s had a PhD in bondo. This is the ‘good fender’
Zoom I’m on that tub. The bed has no less than 5 random patches. People are weird.
Zoom I’m on that tub. The bed has no less than 5 random patches. People are weird.
Got some paint on and the floor lined. Will paint the exterior in a couple days.
It could be worse... my PO had covered the rear tub in fiberglass without trying to do anything to control the rust. The thin layer of fiberglass did nothing but trap the water. When the garbage truck came by I folded the floor up by hand to fit it into the rear hopper. There was no point in trying to recycle it... there wasn't enough metal there to recycle.
One of my college professors said PHD was an acronym for Pilled Higher & Deeper. Unfortunately too many POs have applied a PHD approach to Bondo work... I hate it.
blossett
SILVER Star
Fenders, aprons and hood on!
Bondo, or much better fillers out there, are a necessary evil. Unless you have a set of pneumatic planishing hammers. But there are still areas where you can't back up with a dolly. I hammer and dolly as close to straight as I am able. Sometimes I get it close enough that primer surfacer will level it. I've spent 6 months unfking PO stuff on my project.It could be worse... my PO had covered the rear tub in fiberglass without trying to do anything to control the rust. The thin layer of fiberglass did nothing but trap the water. When the garbage truck came by I folded the floor up by hand to fit it into the rear hopper. There was no point in trying to recycle it... there wasn't enough metal there to recycle.
One of my college professors said PHD was an acronym for Pilled Higher & Deeper. Unfortunately too many POs have applied a PHD approach to Bondo work... I hate it.
Just one example.
I agree that filler has a useful purpose. Using a skim of filler has a time and a place... what I hate is when it is easiest to measure its thickness with a yardstick. I prefer to use as little as possible... if any at all.
Excellent advise, and I called, but it was Saturday and they were closed unfortunately. SO, guess what fixed my issue??? This forum of course!
. My distributor is a mighty 19100-61180 that I got from Mark at Mark's Offroad, with the Pertronix pre-installed. And thankfully I did not fry the Pertronix. I started researching for a possible cause to the problem, and ran across some great tech from @ToyotaMatt. In his post he was frustrated with the 2nd wire on the 19100-61180 because the connector was NLA from Toyota. He went on to say that his Pertronix would not work until he connected that 2nd wire to ground. Worth a shot. I didn't have that wire with NLA connector, so I grabbed some 18 gauge black that I had, and used 2 solder-and-seal ring terminals on either end. I attached one end to the screw on the side of the distributor, and then grounded it on a fender bolt. My 2F roared to life again!!! And 2 other side effects, it starts quicker and the idle is smoother; there was always a small little burble, for lack of a better word, in my idle that is gone now. So the million dollar question is: WHY did the 19100-61180 work so well for a year and a half without that extra ground??? No telling, but if you have one, it might be worth running one little wire to see if it improves your life. Hope that helps someone! Have a great day!
Great looking setup!
Now that the distributor issue is tackled and I'm back to running, I can show ya'll the fun stuff I've been working on! @Toyrod sold me a beautiful original air cleaner housing assembly, a 17700-61022, complete with super survivor sticker! Then I bought all the bling, with a new stud and gasket from @ToyotaMatt. Enough talk, here it is!
The different color vaccum plugs were all I had, I'll clean that up later. This replaced a 6 inch round Mr. Gasket generic thing, so much better! And now I am finally able to run a hose from the valve cover to the intake for the first time, smells better! Then, I had to overcome a difficult decision ... Cruiser Problems
So now, all I need is some brackets and the hose and SS clamp from City Racer. Here's everything I'll have to run down:
That Bracket and then these things:
If anyone has that to part with, just hit me up. It's gettin' better all the time!! 
The different color vaccum plugs were all I had, I'll clean that up later. This replaced a 6 inch round Mr. Gasket generic thing, so much better! And now I am finally able to run a hose from the valve cover to the intake for the first time, smells better! Then, I had to overcome a difficult decision ... Cruiser Problems
So now, all I need is some brackets and the hose and SS clamp from City Racer. Here's everything I'll have to run down:
That Bracket and then these things:
If anyone has that to part with, just hit me up.
It's gettin' better all the time!! 
Fiberglass is for boat repairs and corvettes.It could be worse... my PO had covered the rear tub in fiberglass without trying to do anything to control the rust. The thin layer of fiberglass did nothing but trap the water. When the garbage truck came by I folded the floor up by hand to fit it into the rear hopper. There was no point in trying to recycle it... there wasn't enough metal there to recycle.
One of my college professors said PHD was an acronym for Pilled Higher & Deeper. Unfortunately too many POs have applied a PHD approach to Bondo work... I hate it.
JDNs78FJ40
SILVER Star
Are you looking for part 17765, the stay for the air horn hose? If so a guy on Facebook had it, I think. If so let me know and I'll see if I can track down the post.Now that the distributor issue is tackled and I'm back to running, I can show ya'll the fun stuff I've been working on! @Toyrod sold me a beautiful original air cleaner housing assembly, a 17700-61022, complete with super survivor sticker! Then I bought all the bling, with a new stud and gasket from @ToyotaMatt. Enough talk, here it is!
View attachment 3118764
The different color vaccum plugs were all I had, I'll clean that up later. This replaced a 6 inch round Mr. Gasket generic thing, so much better! And now I am finally able to run a hose from the valve cover to the intake for the first time, smells better! Then, I had to overcome a difficult decision ... Cruiser Problems
View attachment 3118765
So now, all I need is some brackets and the hose and SS clamp from City Racer. Here's everything I'll have to run down:
View attachment 3118769
That Bracket and then these things:
View attachment 3118774
If anyone has that to part with, just hit me up.
Yes sir, from the Parts Microfiche scans, the call out number is 17765 and the part number is 17754-61010. It is the Z shaped bracket, but also is supposed to include the round hose clamp that bolts to the bracket. I haven't gotten a chance to really start searching yet, as I just got the air cleaner, but in my early searches it seems like this is getting hard to find, at least with the clamp.
The other part to that, the Inlet, is part number 17751-61021 I believe (the microfiche is hard to read right there). It changed shape in '80 so I want to get the right one for '78. This should be it:
And the bracket on the left side of the air cleaner 17700-61022 unfortunately doesn't have a separate part number that I can find, it was just included with that part I suppose. Anyway, sorry if this is a thread hijack, but hey, maybe in a few weeks I can show pictures of these cool old parts bolted to my rig
Thanks! Have a great day!
JDNs78FJ40
SILVER Star
I reached out to the guy on facebook to see if he still has 17765. In his pic he doesn't show the clamp but I will ask.Yes sir, from the Parts Microfiche scans, the call out number is 17765 and the part number is 17754-61010. It is the Z shaped bracket, but also is supposed to include the round hose clamp that bolts to the bracket. I haven't gotten a chance to really start searching yet, as I just got the air cleaner, but in my early searches it seems like this is getting hard to find, at least with the clamp.
View attachment 3119299
The other part to that, the Inlet, is part number 17751-61021 I believe (the microfiche is hard to read right there). It changed shape in '80 so I want to get the right one for '78. This should be it:
View attachment 3119298
And the bracket on the left side of the air cleaner 17700-61022 unfortunately doesn't have a separate part number that I can find, it was just included with that part I suppose. Anyway, sorry if this is a thread hijack, but hey, maybe in a few weeks I can show pictures of these cool old parts bolted to my rig
CondeCruiser
SILVER Star
PM sentYes sir, from the Parts Microfiche scans, the call out number is 17765 and the part number is 17754-61010. It is the Z shaped bracket, but also is supposed to include the round hose clamp that bolts to the bracket. I haven't gotten a chance to really start searching yet, as I just got the air cleaner, but in my early searches it seems like this is getting hard to find, at least with the clamp.
View attachment 3119299
The other part to that, the Inlet, is part number 17751-61021 I believe (the microfiche is hard to read right there). It changed shape in '80 so I want to get the right one for '78. This should be it:
View attachment 3119298
And the bracket on the left side of the air cleaner 17700-61022 unfortunately doesn't have a separate part number that I can find, it was just included with that part I suppose. Anyway, sorry if this is a thread hijack, but hey, maybe in a few weeks I can show pictures of these cool old parts bolted to my rig
