Goldbug
SILVER Star
What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (53 Viewers)
- Thread starter IH8MUD
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Goldbug
SILVER Star
You might try cruiserparts.net. They’re in NH so it will have some rust but their prices aren’t crazy. That bracket and clamp are incredibly hard to find and I’ve seen them priced over $200 here. Happy hunting!Yes sir, from the Parts Microfiche scans, the call out number is 17765 and the part number is 17754-61010. It is the Z shaped bracket, but also is supposed to include the round hose clamp that bolts to the bracket. I haven't gotten a chance to really start searching yet, as I just got the air cleaner, but in my early searches it seems like this is getting hard to find, at least with the clamp.
View attachment 3119299
The other part to that, the Inlet, is part number 17751-61021 I believe (the microfiche is hard to read right there). It changed shape in '80 so I want to get the right one for '78. This should be it:
View attachment 3119298
And the bracket on the left side of the air cleaner 17700-61022 unfortunately doesn't have a separate part number that I can find, it was just included with that part I suppose. Anyway, sorry if this is a thread hijack, but hey, maybe in a few weeks I can show pictures of these cool old parts bolted to my rigThanks! Have a great day!
Cut open the 4wd indicator switch 84610-30010. Freed up the plunger and put it back together. Now the faded light works.
Ok, so the distributor drama is not completely over. I died at a light yesterday and that dog WILL NOT HUNT! So, I thought, I've run this distributor 19100-61180 for a year and a half without a dedicated ground, which solved my issue last weekend, so maybe I have damaged my Pertronix 1662LS.. So, I start doing a ton of research here on the forum and now I understand something clear as day, that has been asked many times on here. I took a half day off of work, so now I have some wonderful "What have you done to your LandCruiser Today"/Tech to share with everyone. Ok, as clear as I can make it, take a look at this picture:
This Magnetic Ring was installed on the center shaft of my distributor. If you have this magnetic ring, then you DO NOT have 1662LS (black) or 91662LS (red). LS stands for Lobe Sensing; in other words it senses the lobes on the center shaft that originally operated the points, WITHOUT a Magnetic Ring. So WITH this ring it is non-LS and WITHOUT this ring it is LS, no matter which model Pertronix you have: the part numbers in this post are specific to the 19100-61180 Distributor ONLY. In hindsight I am going, "DUH", as many of you are now too. But I'm always learning. So, what does this mean? In 2019 @ToyotaMatt added this excellent tech to the forum: Matt's Post. And Lo & Behold, here is mine doing the same thing! :
So now the Air Cleaner stuff is going to have to take a back seat (but thank you to all of you who reached out about the parts I am looking for!), as I have now spent money for a 1662LS. Summit's warehouse is 3 hours from me, so I should have the new parts in by this weekend. But, since I took a half day off work, I'm also changing the oil. I decided to try this stuff:
If I used Over-The-Counter oil, by the time I added the $20 bottle of Zinc additive, this stuff was about the same price. So we will see. Anyway, I hope all this distributor drama is over soon so I can go back to just driving. If the drama continues, I will have points in the distributor and glove box in the near future. Hope you're all doing well, and have a great rest of your day!
This Magnetic Ring was installed on the center shaft of my distributor. If you have this magnetic ring, then you DO NOT have 1662LS (black) or 91662LS (red). LS stands for Lobe Sensing; in other words it senses the lobes on the center shaft that originally operated the points, WITHOUT a Magnetic Ring. So WITH this ring it is non-LS and WITHOUT this ring it is LS, no matter which model Pertronix you have: the part numbers in this post are specific to the 19100-61180 Distributor ONLY. In hindsight I am going, "DUH", as many of you are now too. But I'm always learning
. So, what does this mean? In 2019 @ToyotaMatt added this excellent tech to the forum: Matt's Post. And Lo & Behold, here is mine doing the same thing! :So now the Air Cleaner stuff is going to have to take a back seat (but thank you to all of you who reached out about the parts I am looking for!), as I have now spent money for a 1662LS. Summit's warehouse is 3 hours from me, so I should have the new parts in by this weekend. But, since I took a half day off work, I'm also changing the oil. I decided to try this stuff:
If I used Over-The-Counter oil, by the time I added the $20 bottle of Zinc additive, this stuff was about the same price. So we will see. Anyway, I hope all this distributor drama is over soon so I can go back to just driving. If the drama continues, I will have points in the distributor and glove box in the near future. Hope you're all doing well, and have a great rest of your day!
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I like how you kept the stock air cleaner/intake
What type of adapter was required for that? Thanks.
Chased down some exhaust leaks and pulled the header to have an O2 sensor bung welded on. New exhaust manifold gasket and copper collector gasket installed fixed everything. Running better now.
mattressking
10 digits to freedom
For those that don’t meander into tire tech area, the truck received new wheels/tires today. Kanati 35x10.5r15s, these and oem steelies weigh much less than 31s with split rims, significant improvement. So far even with these wheels/tires, h42 and 4.11s the power feels exactly the same as the 31s. Did I mention how heavy the previous wheels were?
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Very cool
1978 FJ40. Corroded connector at the pump motor below the reservoir. CLeaned and shot both sides with contact cleaner and it worked again.
mattressking
10 digits to freedom
Adarcy
SILVER Star
Looks great. Whats the suspension setup like?
I was just having a conversation with @Thechief86 about tall and skinnies I could put on my SOA FJ55....
Any rubbing issues. I currently run 33s and want to go 35s but don't want to trim anything. Seems like the 10.5 will clear the rear fenders
mattressking
10 digits to freedom
4" downey springs with 1.5" shackles up front and 2.5" in rear.
You should! Right now it appears there are only 4 tires left in the country.
No rubbing at all around town, nothing close that I'm even concerned about, BUT I have to stuff them and find out soon where it touches. Upside about Skyjacker/Downey springs, they center the wheel in the rear even after extended shackles. My assumption up front is the leading edge of fender might rub and maybe a little in the rear fender well.
As an old guy, what is the distance from the running board to the ground? Truck looks nice. The wheels contribute to unsprung weight and there is some physics to the formula. NONE of which I know anything about. Read about that many years ago.
in 1976 when I added Jackman 8 spoke wheels and Armstrong Tru-Track tires, at 32” they rubbed the rear at a 2” lift.
in 1976 when I added Jackman 8 spoke wheels and Armstrong Tru-Track tires, at 32” they rubbed the rear at a 2” lift.
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
I run about a 4" lift and 35x10.50 boggers on stk wheels. On trail they'll rub the inner fenderwell. They just make a shiney spot.
- pipe dreams to pencil , pencell to reality and ALIVE ONCE AGAIN .....
CHOKE CABLE Assy. Part # 78310-60011 Fits ALL 1962-12/74 FJ40 FJ45 FJ55 F1.5 Engine Carburetors w/ a SOLID CORE CABLE Type Butterfly Attachment Point - VintageTEqParts.com
NEW OEM Type Modern CHOKE CABLE Assy. Part # 78310-60011 Fits ALL : 1967-12/74 FJ40 FJ45 FJ55 ALL F...
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GROMMET Rubber PLUG HOLE, NO.1 COWL VENT LOUVER PULL CONTROL ROD 90480-12119 FJ40 BJ40 1975-1985 UV Rated EPDM - VintageTEqParts.com
GROMMET Rubber PLUG HOLE, NO.1 PART # 90480-12119 FJ40 BJ40 1975-1985 UV Rated EPDM Premium Genuine Quality Factory FIT...
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OlYellr
SILVER Star
Test drive happened - Wow - got 60 MPH (gps) out of the tractor. However, anything that could rattle, did.
Speedometer - nope - cable shot (hence phone GPS)
No parking brake
exterior passenger door handle flaps with the wind at 40+ mph ( sounded like 50 fishing strings lined with 50 lead weights each smacking the door)
driver door rattles too - new bushing for pins should do the trick
heater runs 1000%, always - new heater valve needed
after the drive - ebrake loose - removed some parts last night - bolts sheared (hence able to turn the drum by hand 1/12 a turn) - looks like previously driven with ebrake on all the time. Had to drill out a bolt sheared off, installed new seal - have gasket ready. New shoes, springs etc. on the ready. And will have ebrake drum cut/turned today.
So this weekend - install heater valve, ebrake, fix handle, new bushings for hinge pins, drain water and add antifreeze, grease/lube every zerks. Then the bumper.
Speedometer - nope - cable shot (hence phone GPS)
No parking brake
exterior passenger door handle flaps with the wind at 40+ mph ( sounded like 50 fishing strings lined with 50 lead weights each smacking the door)
driver door rattles too - new bushing for pins should do the trick
heater runs 1000%, always - new heater valve needed
after the drive - ebrake loose - removed some parts last night - bolts sheared (hence able to turn the drum by hand 1/12 a turn) - looks like previously driven with ebrake on all the time. Had to drill out a bolt sheared off, installed new seal - have gasket ready. New shoes, springs etc. on the ready. And will have ebrake drum cut/turned today.
So this weekend - install heater valve, ebrake, fix handle, new bushings for hinge pins, drain water and add antifreeze, grease/lube every zerks. Then the bumper.
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This looks so familiar. I literally just got done buttoning up this same thing on my FJ40. Just got out from underneath it refilling the transfer case with gear oil.
RodrigzCrzr
SILVER Star
Removed the dash knobs of my 40 series cleaned them up and re-painted the lettering.
