What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (41 Viewers)

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Doing some rust remediation - anyone have that piece on the ground they'd be willing to part with? I drilled out the spot welds and cut at the pillar to get it off. Passenger side of a 74. I plan on replacing the rusted section at the top of the photo. Thanks!

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Ok so how would I apply that paint? Do I need a professional sprayer? Thanks

Here's what I used for the inside of the top:
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Also... a brush comes in handy for the stubborn places! @sterling may have used a different quality roller for the outside surface of the top.
 
Oh how cool you can apply with a brush/roller and still get a smooth glossy finish? And I thought I would have to spray......:beer:
 
Oh how cool you can apply with a brush/roller and still get a smooth glossy finish? And I thought I would have to spray......:beer:

Whoa now... let me mighty clear on this - a spray gun would definitely yield a prettier finish if you're looking for high end results but I was satisfied with the way the inside came out with roller and brush... I'll let @sterling chime in with feelings on the outside but his picture looked darn good to me! My outside finish still looks acceptable so I'm just polishing it up for now...
 
Just another option thrown out there. I coated the inside of my top with an elastomeric(?) roof top coating for R.V.s. I did thin it some with :eek:gas:eek:
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to make it more user friendly then applied with one of those small rollers. The finish looks kind of like a plastered ceiling, but dries to a rubbery type of feel.
 
Just another option thrown out there. I coated the inside of my top with an elastomeric(?) roof top coating for R.V.s. I did thin it some with :eek:gas:eek:View attachment 1429535 to make it more user friendly then applied with one of those small rollers. The finish looks kind of like a plastered ceiling, but dries to a rubbery type of feel.

Bet that adds a bit of an insulation factor as well.... why gas in lieu of paint thinner or mineral spirits?
 
Not alot this week, worked on figuring out what to do with the front bumper. The old brush guard was killing the "FJ40" look in my mind so I ditched it. Trying to decide how to set up the front bumper now. I ordered a new grill mesh but UPS decided to fold it up like a taco. I cut out the old mesh, straightened out the frame and welded some expanded metal I had laying around and a new crossbar out of flat stock. The holes are a little big now for my taste but it is definitely beefy now.

No Brush Guard:

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Brush Guard:

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Ok so how would I apply that paint? Do I need a professional sprayer? Thanks

Rust-Oleum topside paint in GLOSS WHITE, Amazon's the cheapest but the chart when you pick the color gives the wrong code for gloss white.


I used 1 qt. on the underside and one qt. on the top, that gave me 2.5 to 3 coats per side of the top.
Just to clarify, I used this as a headliner substitute.

On the underside I used a 4 inch roller with a medium nap from Home Dep., same with the topside except I did the third coat with a fine roller for a better finish.

You will need a paint brush to feather the paint on the angled parts of the top and crevices.I would suggest a good to very good brush so the hairs don't break off and dry in the paint.
Also used a 5 inch random orbit sander for prepping the surfaces and wax remover/de-greaser before painting.

It is suggested sanding the surface with a fine sandpaper between the coats(I used 220 grit because that was what I had on hand).

At some stages of drying, the brush resulted in a better finish than the roller due to the paint hardening.
Drying time between coats is 24 hours.
Plan to throw away all brushes and rollers after each application.

I started with a good top sourced from @Wadesters down south of me, very little prep on my end....just some sanding and very small fiberglass patch.

Thoughts:

Is the finish 100% professional and perfect and super glassy like a boat?
Nope.

Does it look darn good?
Oh you betcha (FARGO)

Did I pay more than $200 overall?
Highly doubt it, although I did have the sander.

Ryan
 
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Just another option thrown out there. I coated the inside of my top with an elastomeric(?) roof top coating for R.V.s. I did thin it some with :eek:gas:eek:View attachment 1429535 to make it more user friendly then applied with one of those small rollers. The finish looks kind of like a plastered ceiling, but dries to a rubbery type of feel.

Man I miss the ocean (backdrop).
 
Rust-Oleum 206999 model is what I used. Should be white in color.
Marine Coatings Topside Paint Product Page

I used 1 qt. on the underside and one qt. on the top, that gave me 2.5 to 3 coats per side of the top.
Just to clarify, I used this as a headliner substitute.

On the underside I used a 4 inch roller with a medium nap from Home Dep., same with the topside except I did the third coat with a fine roller for a better finish.

You will need a paint brush to feather the paint on the angled parts of the top and crevices.I would suggest a good to very good brush so the hairs don't break off and dry in the paint.
Also used a 5 inch random orbit sander for prepping the surfaces and wax remover/de-greaser before painting.

It is suggested sanding the surface with a fine sandpaper between the coats(I used 220 grit because that was what I had on hand).

At some stages of drying, the brush resulted in a better finish than the roller due to the paint hardening.
Drying time between coats is 24 hours.
Plan to throw away all brushes and rollers after each application.

I started with a good top sourced from @Wadesters down south of me, very little prep on my end....just some sanding and very small fiberglass patch.

Thoughts:

Is the finish 100% professional and perfect and super glassy like a boat?
Nope.

Does it look darn good?
Oh you betcha (FARGO)

Did I pay more than $200 overall?
Highly doubt it, although I did have the sander.

Ryan

I thought about that color (oyster) in the paint too but just went with plain white... Is the oyster closer to the original color of the top?
 
Edited post to reflect paint color used.
I used gloss white but the link from AMZN spits out the wrong code for the paint color.
Looks very close to the Cygnus white original color to me.
 
Hey guys here are my hardtop issues, generally in very good shape, gutters are getting flaky and this rivet appears a bit too exposed, opinions????
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Paint looks good to me, have you tried a polish and wax? Maybe wash a small section and try to see if it will polish up with some wax and or polishing compound.
It doesn't look like you need to repaint the whole top from the pictures.
You can fix the gutter seam sealer without painting the whole top.
 
Hey guys here are my hardtop issues, generally in very good shape, gutters are getting flaky and this rivet appears a bit too exposed, opinions????View attachment 1429685 View attachment 1429686

Curious... I had the same rivet protruding more than the others but it wasn't loose so I applied a dose of sealant around it!
It's getting warmer now so you can do without the top... take your time and clean out that gutter and reapply with sealant of choice...
 
Bet that adds a bit of an insulation factor as well.... why gas in lieu of paint thinner or mineral spirits?
Because I had it in a 5gal. gas can and didn't want to go to the store. Yea, I'm a cheap red neck.:hillbilly:
 
Because I had it in a 5gal. gas can and didn't want to go to the store. Yea, I'm a cheap red neck.:hillbilly:

Thought it was something like... "because the petrochemical composition coupled with the modern octane level provides the optimal fluid environment for the precise application of the rubberized coating compound"

Dang sure like your answer better :cheers:
 
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Yes guys my top is generally in very good shape aside from gutters and that one rivet. So could I also use seam sealer around that rivet @imyahucklbrry ? Then put some of the primer @sterling used on his top and paint over the repaired area with the topcoat he used? I will provide more pics of my top. The color is not the yellowish Cygnus white but not a pure white either-if that makes sense?? Really appreciate all the great input-big thanks!
 
Been busy yesterday and today. (And my back is feeling it!)

I started off cleaning up the wiring and making it look neater then started painting the engine compartment. A PO sprayed three color trunk paint and it looked horrible. I cleaned off what I could and sprayed over the rest. I installed a new air compressor for the air horns, ran new air line and moved the horns off the hood and put them in a more proper location. (I really enjoy the horns. A short blast will get even a deaf persons attention.) Now that April is just around the corner and the temperatures look to be getting warmer, I removed the soft top and installed the bikini top. Hope I don't regret that. Next, finish spraying the engine compartment, right front and bib, then some general cleaning.

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Been busy yesterday and today. (And my back is feeling it!)

I started off cleaning up the wiring and making it look neater then started painting the engine compartment. A PO sprayed three color trunk paint and it looked horrible. I cleaned off what I could and sprayed over the rest. I installed a new air compressor for the air horns, ran new air line and moved the horns off the hood and put them in a more proper location. (I really enjoy the horns. A short blast will get even a deaf persons attention.) Now that April is just around the corner and the temperatures look to be getting warmer, I removed the soft top and installed the bikini top. Hope I don't regret that. Next, finish spraying the engine compartment, right front and bib, then some general cleaning.

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Like that valve cover!
 

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