What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week?

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Could not get my T Case to go into 4LOW. 2WD easy, 4HI easy, but no matter how hard I pushed/pulled the lever, pop the clutch etc., it would NOT go into Low.
Took it to a friends house so he could move the lever while I was underneath with some tools & a ball peen hammer. Once I figured out which way to tap tap tap we were finally able to get it to shift in/out of 4Low. Took it for a test drive & all good.

Next morning before buttoning everything up, skid plate etc, I tried shifting just to be sure. FAIL, back to square one.

This time I had my wife pushing the lever & repeating what my friend did. Well except she never yelled ‘WTF is wrong with this thing? ’WTF won’t this go into low?’

This time I did a bit more looking before tap taping. Looked into the T CASE boot, wiped what I could with a brush, sprayed some Kroil all around etc. Then I found the culprit. The T Case boot…after 51 years had a hole in it which over time allowed debris to fall in.

With my flashlight I was able to see that a wire brush (think tooth brush size) had fallen in there & bounced around blocking the lever from moving. Needle nose pliers to the rescue & pulled out the brush. An easy enough fix but took forever to figure it out.

And the really good thing: after 51 years still able to get a OEM boot from @cruiseroutfit .🎯

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Could not get my T Case to go into 4LOW. 2WD easy, 4HI easy, but no matter how hard I pushed/pulled the lever, pop the clutch etc., it would NOT go into Low.
Took it to a friends house so he could move the lever while I was underneath with some tools & a ball peen hammer. Once I figured out which way to tap tap tap we were finally able to get it to shift in/out of 4Low. Took it for a test drive & all good.

Next morning before buttoning everything up, skid plate etc, I tried shifting just to be sure. FAIL, back to square one.

This time I had my wife pushing the lever & repeating what my friend did. Well except she never yelled ‘WTF is wrong with this thing? ’WTF won’t this go into low?’

This time I did a bit more looking before tap taping. Looked into the T CASE boot, wiped what I could with a brush, sprayed some Kroil all around etc. Then I found the culprit. The T Case boot…after 51 years had a hole in it which over time allowed debris to fall in.

With my flashlight I was able to see that a wire brush (think tooth brush size) had fallen in there & bounced around blocking the lever from moving. Needle nose pliers to the rescue & pulled out the brush. An easy enough fix but took forever to figure it out.

And the really good thing: after 51 years still able to get a OEM boot from @cruiseroutfit .🎯

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Were you brushing your gold grill of a smile?
 
@ceylonfj40nut I really have no idea how/when that brush got in there…but when I saw it I most certainly got a big smile 😛. I did not want to drop that case to find the issue.
 
I wanted an OEM tach on my 40 but 40 tachs are like hens teeth....so i found a 60 tach and a mud member sent me his file for 3D printing the OEM bezel design with a modified housing to fit the tach and bezel in the right orientation in the dash. Found a guy that printed it up in a few hours in white for reflection of green light in the housing, then sanded and prime/painted the bezel with silver/pewter from cruiser corps to match gauge cluster and glovebox etc... Turned out great. Made my wiring harness to check it all out and it works great including the light. But now, where do I install it!? I thought it was narrower than it is and was going to place it to the right of the gauge cluster but the choke and wiper knobs and brake/seat belt light are in the way.🤬 I thought I would put the brake/ wash light down below dash like the older models but now I have to deal with two knobs. I guess I could move both rows one spot to the right and put another hole next to glove box for one and maybe the choke down below dash next to the throttle knob. BUT....the depth of the housing will come in contact with the left defrost mount behind dash! I could move it to the left like the original would have been but that has my lights switch AND a side window defrost vent arm mounted there!! 😫 Any suggestions🫤

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Sounds like it’s time to visit Dakota Digital….the Tach is integrated into the Speedo.

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Or…. If not a Dakota…Holley Sniper…and you can set the resolution to match your engine rpm red line.

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It was just supposed to be a quick trip around the corner to the gas station, in the final stages of preparing to take Ruftoys out for the first time in a few years.
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A piece of shellac in the metal line between the pump and carb got stuck in the float needle and flooded the carb. Oh well, it had been well over a decade since the last time I had serviced it, so off it came.

I had made mention a few months ago when I bought some cheap chicom carb cores from @cruisermatt that even the smallest bits can come in handy. I decided to take this ‘opportunity’ to become the first donee, replacing my deep amber sight glass with a fresh, clear one. @75whitewater55 became the second donee on Friday when I replaced the anemic return spring on his 60 carb with a fresh one from the same core😊. No charge for the spring Charles.😉
 
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Dug the old Best Top out of the back shed, looks kinda jeepy but it's functional. Installed the soft top then drove up a local hill for the view.

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Found this nice little calm island of green and dirt in a sea of concrete and traffic.

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Also found out that I'm probably going to need fender flares if I want to drive on gravel which isn't so bad kinda like the look.

No new issues! 🙂
 
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Nice view from OAK/Berk hills?
You got it from the top of the cemetery.

Really neat, narrow, bumpy, maze of old paved roads in there was good shake down test for the suspension. Also a couple little off road sections but didn't want to draw too much attention.
 
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@60 40 No wonder it’s a calm island of green….
 
@60 40 No wonder it’s a calm island of green….

Very quite there.

Kicked me out last time I went light wheeling inside the gates 35 years ago.... they were digging up and grading a new section of the grounds.....
 
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In the process of restoring an 85110-90303 FJ40 wiper motor.

Does anyone know if the mounting plate was originally yellow zinc coated or painted?

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Are you interested in rebuilding mine? I can't find one within my budget or suggestions on how to get it running?
 
Scored a super cool 3/1975 2F from a local MUDDER for a cool refreshstoration coming up this summer on a 40.

Fully rebuilt. With some of the bits needed. Going to do a Sniper just so I can piss Grogan off and call him daily.

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The date code sets the block at March 1975 manufacture. 7th day of manufacture that month.
 
Today was the day that I finally got back to one of my side projects on Ruftoys that I probably started about 15 years ago 😛 I originally cut the rear wheelwells back in the 80s, when that was a ‘thing’ and ran flares. After trashing a couple of sets of flares on the Rubicon I eventually gave up and just ran the truck with the three folded over sections of 1/4 panel that I had made so the tires couldn’t contact a saw cut.

Well, about 15 years ago I got the idea of cutting and bending a piece of 1/2 tubing into a wheelwell arch and welding in a larger full lip in the quarter panel. It turned out well, but before I got around to doing the second one, @Fast Eddy came out with his heavy duty wheelwell covers, and I just jumped on that bandwagon. Another 10 years passed without me ever installing them, and I sold them last year to @LCMoneyPit in WA. I never documented the first one, but I took a few pics today.

First was the matter of unfolding the three flats and dollying the skin close enough to flat for welding.
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Then I took a few measurements to try and account for the length of the three sides with the added radiuses and put my 1/2” tubing in my genuine Toyota SST
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Note to self: if I’d worn sandals, @whitey45 and @pardion might have thought the pic was taken in Pakistan!
 
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