RevISK
SILVER Star
Man, using that tool makes a huge difference. It's not like we need to be in there a bunch but the right tool almost makes it a joy.
What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week?
- Thread starter IH8MUD
- Start date
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I made my own, out of a scrap piece of PVC pipe. Still in one of my toolboxes somewhere.
When I bent my shifter, I figured out how much I needed to bend it. Then I traced out the shifter outline on a piece of cardboard. When I bent the shifter in the vice, would then match it up with the outline to see how much it bent and how much more I needed to go. Was easier than bending it, re-installing it, checking clearance, pulling it back out, etc.
I wanted an OEM tach on my 40 but 40 tachs are like hens teeth....so i found a 60 tach and a mud member sent me his file for 3D printing the OEM bezel design with a modified housing to fit the tach and bezel in the right orientation in the dash. Found a guy that printed it up in a few hours in white for reflection of green light in the housing, then sanded and prime/painted the bezel with silver/pewter from cruiser corps to match gauge cluster and glovebox etc... Turned out great. Made my wiring harness to check it all out and it works great including the light. But now, where do I install it!? I thought it was narrower than it is and was going to place it to the right of the gauge cluster but the choke and wiper knobs and brake/seat belt light are in the way.
I thought I would put the brake/ wash light down below dash like the older models but now I have to deal with two knobs. I guess I could move both rows one spot to the right and put another hole next to glove box for one and maybe the choke down below dash next to the throttle knob. BUT....the depth of the housing will come in contact with the left defrost mount behind dash! I could move it to the left like the original would have been but that has my lights switch AND a side window defrost vent arm mounted there!! 
Any suggestions
I thought I would put the brake/ wash light down below dash like the older models but now I have to deal with two knobs. I guess I could move both rows one spot to the right and put another hole next to glove box for one and maybe the choke down below dash next to the throttle knob. BUT....the depth of the housing will come in contact with the left defrost mount behind dash! I could move it to the left like the original would have been but that has my lights switch AND a side window defrost vent arm mounted there!! Any suggestions
Brilliant idea! Thanks for the tip
RevISK
SILVER Star
most relocate the light switch and put it to the left of the instrument cluster. But most don't also have the side window defrost tube. I ended up getting an AutoMeter 4K tach and attached it to a couple unused holes under the dash to the lower right of the IC.I wanted an OEM tach on my 40 but 40 tachs are like hens teeth....so i found a 60 tach and a mud member sent me his file for 3D printing the OEM bezel design with a modified housing to fit the tach and bezel in the right orientation in the dash. Found a guy that printed it up in a few hours in white for reflection of green light in the housing, then sanded and prime/painted the bezel with silver/pewter from cruiser corps to match gauge cluster and glovebox etc... Turned out great. Made my wiring harness to check it all out and it works great including the light. But now, where do I install it!? I thought it was narrower than it is and was going to place it to the right of the gauge cluster but the choke and wiper knobs and brake/seat belt light are in the way.
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Yeah...I thought about that but I wanted to keep it as "original" as I could with the TOYO LC tach. Plus down at the lower dash you mentioned I have the throttle knob for the PTO winch.
Also having a thought of having a 3D printed enclosure made to look similar to what some 70 series had on the top of dash for the elevation/angle gauges. IDK.....having a few brain farts at the moment
RevISK
SILVER Star
In the end, the 60 series tach was too big for my taste and the AutoMeter one is like 2.5", but I get what you're saying. Plus, your truck is so nice, it makes sense to make it as OE as possible. For me, I just needed the information of the tach so I hit the easy button.Yeah...I thought about that but I wanted to keep it as "original" as I could with the TOYO LC tach. Plus down at the lower dash you mentioned I have the throttle knob for the PTO winch.
Also having a thought of having a 3D printed enclosure made to look similar to what some 70 series had on the top of dash for the elevation/angle gauges. IDK.....having a few brain farts at the moment
I went the auto meter route as well. Mounted to steering column to leave the dash original. Got the idea from a post on here about using a VW aluminum steering column mount and it worked well.Yeah...I thought about that but I wanted to keep it as "original" as I could with the TOYO LC tach. Plus down at the lower dash you mentioned I have the throttle knob for the PTO winch.
Also having a thought of having a 3D printed enclosure made to look similar to what some 70 series had on the top of dash for the elevation/angle gauges. IDK.....having a few brain farts at the moment
The tach isn't that big, but the housing of it is which makes the bezel big to cover it !!
Yeah....cutting a hole in the dash....isn't making me feel great!! I'll give it some time and work on ideas before I do...
And.......about to replace pinion and side bearings
Wheel and tire choices here in Ecuador is not as complete as I would have had in the US. I wanted tall/skinny 33" tires on 16 inch steel rims. But, I could not find them. Then I had a sidewall puncture and found out my tires, although they had like new tread, were 12 years old. So, I upped to 17x9 rims and tires just larger than 31x10.5. The on-road ride is much better up-sizing the wheels 2". Overall, I'm happy, but I still would have preferred the pizza-cutters.
RevISK
SILVER Star
My set up fwiwYeah....cutting a hole in the dash....isn't making me feel great!! I'll give it some time and work on ideas before I do...
Beautiful 40I wanted an OEM tach on my 40 but 40 tachs are like hens teeth....so i found a 60 tach and a mud member sent me his file for 3D printing the OEM bezel design with a modified housing to fit the tach and bezel in the right orientation in the dash. Found a guy that printed it up in a few hours in white for reflection of green light in the housing, then sanded and prime/painted the bezel with silver/pewter from cruiser corps to match gauge cluster and glovebox etc... Turned out great. Made my wiring harness to check it all out and it works great including the light. But now, where do I install it!? I thought it was narrower than it is and was going to place it to the right of the gauge cluster but the choke and wiper knobs and brake/seat belt light are in the way.
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Ackcruisers
SILVER Star
In the process of restoring an 85110-90303 FJ40 wiper motor.
Does anyone know if the mounting plate was originally yellow zinc coated or painted?
Does anyone know if the mounting plate was originally yellow zinc coated or painted?
Talk about ‘Old School’, here’s a Sun Tach that I bought at a swap meet several years ago. This is where & how I intend to mount it. Should be perfect for my stock 2f. My electrical friend & I tried to get it to match up with Toyota wiring when I first got it. I don’t remember exactly what we determined the issue was, maybe switch to ground vs positive, can’t remember. But I want to get it working.
It’s a great looking tach tho & it’s time to figure this out.
It’s a great looking tach tho & it’s time to figure this out.
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Your 40 looks great. Love the roof.
Could not get my T Case to go into 4LOW. 2WD easy, 4HI easy, but no matter how hard I pushed/pulled the lever, pop the clutch etc., it would NOT go into Low.
Took it to a friends house so he could move the lever while I was underneath with some tools & a ball peen hammer. Once I figured out which way to tap tap tap we were finally able to get it to shift in/out of 4Low. Took it for a test drive & all good.
Next morning before buttoning everything up, skid plate etc, I tried shifting just to be sure. FAIL, back to square one.
This time I had my wife pushing the lever & repeating what my friend did. Well except she never yelled ‘WTF is wrong with this thing? ’WTF won’t this go into low?’
This time I did a bit more looking before tap taping. Looked into the T CASE boot, wiped what I could with a brush, sprayed some Kroil all around etc. Then I found the culprit. The T Case boot…after 51 years had a hole in it which over time allowed debris to fall in.
With my flashlight I was able to see that a wire brush (think tooth brush size) had fallen in there & bounced around blocking the lever from moving. Needle nose pliers to the rescue & pulled out the brush. An easy enough fix but took forever to figure it out.
And the really good thing: after 51 years still able to get a OEM boot from @cruiseroutfit .
Took it to a friends house so he could move the lever while I was underneath with some tools & a ball peen hammer. Once I figured out which way to tap tap tap we were finally able to get it to shift in/out of 4Low. Took it for a test drive & all good.
Next morning before buttoning everything up, skid plate etc, I tried shifting just to be sure. FAIL, back to square one.
This time I had my wife pushing the lever & repeating what my friend did. Well except she never yelled ‘WTF is wrong with this thing? ’WTF won’t this go into low?’
This time I did a bit more looking before tap taping. Looked into the T CASE boot, wiped what I could with a brush, sprayed some Kroil all around etc. Then I found the culprit. The T Case boot…after 51 years had a hole in it which over time allowed debris to fall in.
With my flashlight I was able to see that a wire brush (think tooth brush size) had fallen in there & bounced around blocking the lever from moving. Needle nose pliers to the rescue & pulled out the brush. An easy enough fix but took forever to figure it out.
And the really good thing: after 51 years still able to get a OEM boot from @cruiseroutfit .
Were you brushing your gold grill of a smile?Could not get my T Case to go into 4LOW. 2WD easy, 4HI easy, but no matter how hard I pushed/pulled the lever, pop the clutch etc., it would NOT go into Low.
Took it to a friends house so he could move the lever while I was underneath with some tools & a ball peen hammer. Once I figured out which way to tap tap tap we were finally able to get it to shift in/out of 4Low. Took it for a test drive & all good.
Next morning before buttoning everything up, skid plate etc, I tried shifting just to be sure. FAIL, back to square one.
This time I had my wife pushing the lever & repeating what my friend did. Well except she never yelled ‘WTF is wrong with this thing? ’WTF won’t this go into low?’
This time I did a bit more looking before tap taping. Looked into the T CASE boot, wiped what I could with a brush, sprayed some Kroil all around etc. Then I found the culprit. The T Case boot…after 51 years had a hole in it which over time allowed debris to fall in.
With my flashlight I was able to see that a wire brush (think tooth brush size) had fallen in there & bounced around blocking the lever from moving. Needle nose pliers to the rescue & pulled out the brush. An easy enough fix but took forever to figure it out.
And the really good thing: after 51 years still able to get a OEM boot from @cruiseroutfit .
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