demons must be exorcised.......on the bright side, the frame looks in good shapeSo, I only want to paint the floor above the transmission.. It turns out the floor is gone
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demons must be exorcised.......on the bright side, the frame looks in good shapeSo, I only want to paint the floor above the transmission.. It turns out the floor is gone
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so this bezel is different than the units that are currently available on the market?Added an Fj60 tachometer to my Fj40. I was torn on cutting a hole at first and I had the high altitude defrost vent I. The spot I needed. I went ahead and lost the one vent and cut a hole for the 3D printed housing and bezel I had made and moved the headlight switch to the right of the steering wheel. Sanded the bezel and primed/ painted with pewter silver to match the rest. Also had my drive shafts rebalanced (both) and rebuilt my rear third member. It had way too much backlash and zero pre-load. What a difference all this mad on highway driving!!!Gets up to 70 mph with little effort and Tach works great. Meanwhile Coolerman is building me a wiring extension for my headlights to go from left to right. Couldn't bare cutting it!
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Yes, so the Bezel and housing were redesigned by mud member "MOTOV8R" to except the Tachometer from an Fj60. The 60 tach has a flat spot on the bottom of the gauge apposed to round as the original 40's round face and bezel. The 60's housing will not mount to the back of the flat fj40 dash because of the mounting tabs set further back to fit the 60's dash shape. He has the 3D printing info loaded onto www.thingiverse.com so that whoever has a 3D printer and knowhow can print it. I used mud member "ChaserFJ60" store, cruiserhead.com to print it out. quick and cheep! It will require a little fine sanding to smooth it out and primer and paint. inside of housing should be a bright white to reflect the light. Make a template for the housing cut layout and bezel mounting. Be exact and lay it out on painters tape over the spot you intend to cut in dash. There is a groove made into the back side of bezel, opposite of the two screw holes that will slip over one side of dash sheet metal. I used to riv-nuts behind the bezel. I moved my headlight switch to the right into the washer knob slot and drilled another hole to the right of the far right "warm pull" knob to install the washer switch. Tried to keep it as original as possible. Coolerman sent me and extension for my headlight switch so I didn't have to cut my OEM harness.so this bezel is different than the units that are currently available on the market?
Agree with Mark, looks fantastic


Right on, thank you for the detailed info!! Plan to follow your lead here on one of my late model 40’s that also has the window defrost holes in the dash face.Yes, so the Bezel and housing were redesigned by mud member "MOTOV8R" to except the Tachometer from an Fj60. The 60 tach has a flat spot on the bottom of the gauge apposed to round as the original 40's round face and bezel. The 60's housing will not mount to the back of the flat fj40 dash because of the mounting tabs set further back to fit the 60's dash shape. He has the 3D printing info loaded onto www.thingiverse.com so that whoever has a 3D printer and knowhow can print it. I used mud member "ChaserFJ60" store, cruiserhead.com to print it out. quick and cheep! It will require a little fine sanding to smooth it out and primer and paint. inside of housing should be a bright white to reflect the light. Make a template for the housing cut layout and bezel mounting. Be exact and lay it out on painters tape over the spot you intend to cut in dash. There is a groove made into the back side of bezel, opposite of the two screw holes that will slip over one side of dash sheet metal. I used to riv-nuts behind the bezel. I moved my headlight switch to the right into the washer knob slot and drilled another hole to the right of the far right "warm pull" knob to install the washer switch. Tried to keep it as original as possible. Coolerman sent me and extension for my headlight switch so I didn't have to cut my OEM harness.
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I hated to remove one but they dont do a lot especially here in Texas and I prefered a useful tach. Seems like ive always kept an eye on them from my old corvettes and jeeps and my modern cars. I think its a nice OEM look and useful. I kept the other vent for the wifes side!Right on, thank you for the detailed info!! Plan to follow your lead here on one of my late model 40’s that also has the window defrost holes in the dash face.
The 2 ugly screws are temp until I find mathing ones like on the gauge cluster. Ordered 2 from SOR but they are to short becase of the distance from bezel face to housing of tach.Yes, so the Bezel and housing were redesigned by mud member "MOTOV8R" to except the Tachometer from an Fj60. The 60 tach has a flat spot on the bottom of the gauge apposed to round as the original 40's round face and bezel. The 60's housing will not mount to the back of the flat fj40 dash because of the mounting tabs set further back to fit the 60's dash shape. He has the 3D printing info loaded onto www.thingiverse.com so that whoever has a 3D printer and knowhow can print it. I used mud member "ChaserFJ60" store, cruiserhead.com to print it out. quick and cheep! It will require a little fine sanding to smooth it out and primer and paint. inside of housing should be a bright white to reflect the light. Make a template for the housing cut layout and bezel mounting. Be exact and lay it out on painters tape over the spot you intend to cut in dash. There is a groove made into the back side of bezel, opposite of the two screw holes that will slip over one side of dash sheet metal. I used to riv-nuts behind the bezel. I moved my headlight switch to the right into the washer knob slot and drilled another hole to the right of the far right "warm pull" knob to install the washer switch. Tried to keep it as original as possible. Coolerman sent me and extension for my headlight switch so I didn't have to cut my OEM harness.
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Side view mirror screws for 77 upThe 2 ugly screws are temp until I find mathing ones like on the gauge cluster. Ordered 2 from SOR but they are to short becase of the distance from bezel face to housing of tach.
NICE! ThanksSide view mirror screws for 77 up![]()
Same place I bought mine from just ordered more green to tone it down. Wonder why they aren't dimmable?I changed all mine to green LED. They aren't dimmable. At least mine aren't. I got mine from SuperBrightLED. I noticed there were different lumens available for the same bulbs if you want to play with brightness.
Dimming LED's is more effective with a circuit than a simple rheostat. The circuit or chip turns the LED on and off rapidly to do this.Same place I bought mine from just ordered more green to tone it down. Wonder why they aren't dimmable?
Thanks, I'm not alone.
I just learned something new!Dimming LED's is more effective with a circuit than a simple rheostat. The circuit or chip turns the LED on and off rapidly to do this.
Same here!Added some LED lights to my cluster and they are much brighter but think Ill try the green ones to match. BUT, as soon as i changed to LED, the brightness could no longer be adjusted. Stays on full bright. Is that normal with LED's? All of the dash lights.
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I had ordered the green led bulbs from SuperBright as well about 2 years ago…they did not fit and I’d sent them back….this looks so nice, can you tell me what part numbers you used from SuperBright? I have got to pursue this again….looks greatAdded some LED lights to my cluster and they are much brighter but think Ill try the green ones to match. BUT, as soon as i changed to LED, the brightness could no longer be adjusted. Stays on full bright. Is that normal with LED's? All of the dash lights.
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