Completed the first test drive after redoing the cooling system. So far so good…only had 2 leaks from loose hose clamps but tightened those up and we appeared all good no more leaks.
What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (57 Viewers)
- Thread starter IH8MUD
- Start date
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Well i was going to get started on a long overdue front knuckle rebuild. What am i missing here? Shouldn't there be a thrust washer that goes behind the spindle nut? All I have is the locking nut, locking nut washer and the spindle nut. Someone has been in there before. The locking nut and spindle nut were assaulted with a chisel. This is a 1972 FJ40 with the barrel style warn lock-o-matic hubs. Thanks for any insight.
Skreddy
SILVER Star
I’m going to adjust some settings before I leave work today. Hard to adjust cold start characteristics because you really only get one shot. Mine is extra sooty but that’s just all the oil it burns to help keep the exhaust internals lubricated….
My 60 will start right up, 1 pump, full choke and starts and idles perfect. Unless it’s been sitting 2+ days then the carb is empty of fuel and same cranking drill needed.
I've done nothing except wait patiently for my carb throttle body to be mailed back. 2 weeks seems like 2 years 
Missing a lot. There should be that thrust washer but shouldn’t there also be another of those threaded nuts and a star shaped retainer that goes between them and gets bent over to keep them locked in place…?
3Speed40ForLife
Bias ply or die!
Now with a new gas tank installed.
Not getting high from gas fumes while you drive is a big improvement.
Got an OEM tank from Toyota, but it does have more stamping and bosses on top than the original. Fits like a glove though.
Not getting high from gas fumes while you drive is a big improvement.
Got an OEM tank from Toyota, but it does have more stamping and bosses on top than the original. Fits like a glove though.
Finally fixed the fuel gauge!! 
Ended up being a bad sender. I went though everything and was at a complete loss. I got a new sender a few years ago thinking that was the issue. Didn’t solve the problem so I went through everything else I could think of with the help of the info on this forum. Was totally stumped and just left it in a state of frustration for way too long. Last week I finally I gave it another shot - rechecked the wiring, the grounds, the gauge itself, and continuity of the wiring. It all checked out so I decided I’d just try another new sender.
Popped that one in and sure enough, the gauge worked! Played around with the float to what I think is best in order to read an accurate full and empty ( I’m running a LRA tank, and the float was hitting the side of the tank in the original mounting position and wasn’t allowing the float to swing the full range). So far so good- still need to get it to empty to confirm it really works.
Also test fitted a new heater box, installed hood vent drains, and refreshed the ash tray & glove box (they were back so brought them back to the proper pewter grey), prepped the instruments cluster for a refresh and pulled out a new transmission tunnel to prep. Ordered a slew of other parts to finish the heater install. All good stuff
Ended up being a bad sender. I went though everything and was at a complete loss. I got a new sender a few years ago thinking that was the issue. Didn’t solve the problem so I went through everything else I could think of with the help of the info on this forum. Was totally stumped and just left it in a state of frustration for way too long. Last week I finally I gave it another shot - rechecked the wiring, the grounds, the gauge itself, and continuity of the wiring. It all checked out so I decided I’d just try another new sender.Popped that one in and sure enough, the gauge worked! Played around with the float to what I think is best in order to read an accurate full and empty ( I’m running a LRA tank, and the float was hitting the side of the tank in the original mounting position and wasn’t allowing the float to swing the full range). So far so good- still need to get it to empty to confirm it really works.
Also test fitted a new heater box, installed hood vent drains, and refreshed the ash tray & glove box (they were back so brought them back to the proper pewter grey), prepped the instruments cluster for a refresh and pulled out a new transmission tunnel to prep. Ordered a slew of other parts to finish the heater install. All good stuff
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I'd been having trouble starting it cold due to a misadjusted carburetor.
Carburetor was misadjusted to compensate for an air leak that's fixed now, time to fix the carb.
It was idling on the venturi, so I turned the idle down until it stopped drawing fuel through the venturi and began to close down the mixture screw.
The mixture screw kills the engine if you go too far, which it won't do if you're pulling fuel through the venturi.
So I got the idle airflow low enough that it doesn't pull through the venturi at idle.
Then I was able to take the idle mixture screw nearly 2 full turns in.
It idles smoother and the exhaust is much less stinky, and when driving it, there was sort of a hole in the acceleration when cold. You could put your foot in it hard and it would run worse. Now when you give it the stomp, there's no more hole, just smooth power delivery.
It might even burn less fuel...
Carburetor was misadjusted to compensate for an air leak that's fixed now, time to fix the carb.
It was idling on the venturi, so I turned the idle down until it stopped drawing fuel through the venturi and began to close down the mixture screw.
The mixture screw kills the engine if you go too far, which it won't do if you're pulling fuel through the venturi.
So I got the idle airflow low enough that it doesn't pull through the venturi at idle.
Then I was able to take the idle mixture screw nearly 2 full turns in.
It idles smoother and the exhaust is much less stinky, and when driving it, there was sort of a hole in the acceleration when cold. You could put your foot in it hard and it would run worse. Now when you give it the stomp, there's no more hole, just smooth power delivery.
It might even burn less fuel...
Sounds like a relatively easy fix. As we know can be much worse. Where did you find the air leak? Manifold? brake booster fitting? carb base?
vac hose?
Carb adjustments are usually made with turns out. Look at the tapered end of the screw - it should be smooth with no ring on it from some gorrolia tightening it down. And if they do it hard enough they can damage the seat. Those result in almost impossible adjustment because the slightest turn has a giant effect.
I had used a hose for crankcase vent that wasn't rated for oil, it was leftover heater hose and it worked until it didn't.
I bought the good stuff and repaired it, but neglected to fix the carb until yesterday.
Next up, I've got a squeaky brake.
That's not the case here.
I had the carb apart 2 years ago and after I was finished with it I had it starting via hand crank.
The 2 turns in was from the point where it was with the problem.
I have no idea how many turns out from the stop it is, but if you turn it in a full turn the engine will starve and die, which is just about the right place for that screw to be..
Too many folks in my opinion fail to understand this basic, extremely reliable tech and they get hoodwinked into buying some over priced universal fit solution which isn't right, because they refuse to learn basic things like how a carburetor works.
So I try and share my experiences and expertise for those who wish to learn.
People aren't generally here to learn things, they're here so that they can show off their ability to spend money and avoid the acquisition of any technical skills.
I believe the locking nut with the small allen head screws takes the place of the second locking nut and the need to have the star retainer? But I would think I still need the thrust washer. That's why I am here, hopefully someone has seen this before. I have no idea and my manual does not even show the locking nut with the allen head screws. This is a March of 72 40. Could the dealer removed something when they installed the warn barrel hubs?
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
Yes, there should be a thrust washer. The washer with the holes and the spanner locknut with the set screws are a Warn thing.
My rig is a 67 and miraculously enough I don't have any gas fumes. Now in my 75 02 BMW man, it smells like a gas can!
Everyone thinks it's great. Lookup to the youtube coatings comparison someone did with different coatings. POR is overpriced junk.
FJ40 Front Knuckle Rebuild! PLUS Wheel Bearing Install!! | #Tiger40 Project Part 5
In this video I finish the knuckle rebuild by installing the wheel hub assemblies with all new parts.There is still lots more to do and many more parts on th...
www.google.com
Your last sentence was a bit harsh....
In the land of monied dreamers spending upwards of around $70K+ restoring a ute maybe well within their means (and boosts their ego's) but in reality the vast majority of owners save up to either pay someone to do work they either can't do (for health reasons/no facilities etc) or lack confidence to tackle themselves, anyone sharing their knowledge is appreciated by those of us willing to learn (to give it a go) & get their hands dirty in the process. For true enthusiasts its about keeping their rig going & looking good in the process which makes it a labour of love...
I thought as much, when the only allen key that would fit was a standard not metric size. Any idea where to get the correct sized thrust washer. Everywhere I look I only see ones for 1975 and up? Will a 1975 washer fit a 1972?
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
IDK, Cruiser outfitters? I have no idea if they interchange. I know disc brake frt ends used a larger nut than drums. Maybe put a "wanted ad" in the classified section. Someone might forward one to you.
