such a tease....
what's the plan for the stock spare location?
What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (12 Viewers)
- Thread starter MScruiser
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what's the plan for the stock spare location?
nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
37s - any excuse to yank those stupid secondary air pumps!!!
nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
I wouldn’t recommend it - having sliders at frame rail level helps prevent some damage but on some seriously hard drops I’ve knocked the sliders up, so the extra gap helps prevent body damage along the pinch weld.
And here I thought my 33s were big... how I feel looking at Tecks new setup......
Got to drive around last night and she floats like a boat. These little known GeoLander X-AT are soo plush and quiet, just what I'm looking for. Was easy enough to get this setup for street. There's still work to be done so she can get rowdy in the dirt. Gearing and brakes feel good. Measuring weights, these 37s on 18" wheels are within 5 lbs of the previous 35s on 20s. New tire package weighed in at 104lbs. The rotational mass should be closer than not too.
I have a mild .75" body lift so the gap looks by design. Might shim it up ever so slightly but I agree with @nwfl4runner . It's at the right level to protect the AHC globes. I've been thinking to cut up the the stock AHC tube armor, welding them to Slee sliderssteps for more frame attach points, to make them more robust.
I'm keeping my narrow 275/65r20 (34.1") spare in place. Spare might be a misnomer in the sense its still a full performance tire if the need arises. The mismatched size isn't a problem IMO to getting off the trail. Will have to hold less speed on-road and maybe bias inflation to help rolling diameter. Part of the calculus is that these Geolander X-AT are 3-ply mud-tire equivalent construction so super durable, yet with AT tire sensibilities.
I'm still working out how to maximize uptravel without drastic changes to the washer reservoir and air pumps. Hoping to shim things around enough that I can keep most things in place with enough clearance from the BL. Thanks for the heads-up
I have a mild .75" body lift so the gap looks by design. Might shim it up ever so slightly but I agree with @nwfl4runner . It's at the right level to protect the AHC globes. I've been thinking to cut up the the stock AHC tube armor, welding them to Slee sliderssteps for more frame attach points, to make them more robust.
I'm keeping my narrow 275/65r20 (34.1") spare in place. Spare might be a misnomer in the sense its still a full performance tire if the need arises. The mismatched size isn't a problem IMO to getting off the trail. Will have to hold less speed on-road and maybe bias inflation to help rolling diameter. Part of the calculus is that these Geolander X-AT are 3-ply mud-tire equivalent construction so super durable, yet with AT tire sensibilities.
I'm still working out how to maximize uptravel without drastic changes to the washer reservoir and air pumps. Hoping to shim things around enough that I can keep most things in place with enough clearance from the BL. Thanks for the heads-up
g rant
SILVER Star
New headlights
Dang yall, all this wheel and tire talk going on I guess I gotta share what the UPS guy just dropped off.
Sticking with 34’s. If @TeCKis300 keeps posting pics of his I may have to make some changes in future lol
Sticking with 34’s. If @TeCKis300 keeps posting pics of his I may have to make some changes in future lol
Since wheel/tires have been the recent topic here has anyone on the forum with an HE actually swapped out the bronze bbs wheels? I love how they look, the weight, etc. but am not certain I want to run spacers again whenever I get around to changing out the stock Dunlops.
I’m moving from my OEM HE wheels for the following reasons.
1. To get higher load limit.
2. To ditch spacers
3. Moving down to 17inch for more sidewall.
4. These icons have better valve placement for the apex rapid deflate valves.
5. These icons have a neat bead retention that’s not the ugly round bezel.
6. I won’t be beating up my OEM wheels.
teejnut
SILVER Star
Looks great! Running spacers with those Tundra wheels?
Preston over at Slee knocked out the BP-51 2.5” suspension/ SPC UCAs / DuroBump bump stops / Spidertrax wheel spacers today!
What's the load rating of the OEM HE wheels compared to the icons?
I run my HE with factory BBS wheels and 1.25” spacers. No issues. They run spacers on 200 series race trucks. They’re fine and very reliable.
I’ve not seen anything officially posted on this but I’ve seen figures thrown around. I’m running heavy anyway and going with a wheel with a published rating over what I run at my heaviest vs guessing what my OEM’s are I see as a box ticked on the pro side.
For me, I wanted to remove the hassle of removing them for any brake work. I do the vast majority of wrenching on mine but if I ever had to go to a shop I just don’t want to worry about anything going on with spacers and if they were properly torqued or not. A free brake inspection can lead to troubles as noted on here before.
Is there any advantage in getting spacers instead of a smaller offset wheel?
You don’t have to buy new wheels…and you get to have a bunch of criticism from internet strangers for free.
That second one is only an advantage if shame is your kink.
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you always had an inch on me.
story of my lifemy motto in life:
"when they go big, i go small"
"whey go high, i go low"
bloc
SILVER Star
Much more likely for this to happen
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