locker switches in .. front locker and snorkel going in this week
What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (26 Viewers)
- Thread starter MScruiser
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Manual Rear and front air overrides? So much for dual climate control, driver decides the temp!
snork
Finally bought and installed the Rotopax universal mount and lock. Stable and secure!
-dual battery fridge, CB radio and air comp wiring install.
That looks a lot like my life the last few weekends...
I didn't like the way I mounted my new Alu-Cab tent last week. It was too high, too noisy, the center of the tent wasn't supported, and I couldn't use the rack for anything else, so I hacked it. I stripped the roof rack down and effectively converted it into load bars and mounted the tent directly to them, then reassembled the unused rack pieces on top of the tent. It's now 2.5" lower, more solidly mounted and I can use the upper rack to mount my axe, shovel, camp table, gas cans, etc... Much better!
Before
After
Before
After
Much improved.I didn't like the way I mounted my new Alu-Cab tent last week. It was too high, too noisy, the center of the tent wasn't supported, and I couldn't use the rack for anything else, so I hacked it. I stripped the roof rack down and effectively converted it into load bars and mounted the tent directly to them, then reassembled the unused rack pieces on top of the tent. It's now 2.5" lower, more solidly mounted and I can use the upper rack to mount my axe, shovel, camp table, gas cans, etc... Much better!
Before
After
What clips are you using to attach the tent to those bars? Also, how is the awning attached to the side of the tent? I can see a clip attached at the front?
I did a similar change but used 7/8" unistrut as load bars, extending them beyond the perimeter of the tent. This gains two benefits: 1) provides mounting points for additional accessories (i.e. awning, but it looks like you've solve this by mounting directly to the tent?) and 2) retains the AluCab mounting clips.
I do, however, really like the clean lines of your setup. I may swap out my front supports to the Front Runner rails. This will also have the benefit of retaining the FR air deflector. It's also a brilliant move to put the smaller rack on top! However, I'm right up against garage door clearance as it is.
Rigging off the jib crane makes it an easy on/off. The angle clips at the end of the strut are only there to retain the rigging straps; they're off now.
I did a similar change but used 7/8" unistrut as load bars, extending them beyond the perimeter of the tent. This gains two benefits: 1) provides mounting points for additional accessories (i.e. awning, but it looks like you've solve this by mounting directly to the tent?) and 2) retains the AluCab mounting clips.
I do, however, really like the clean lines of your setup. I may swap out my front supports to the Front Runner rails. This will also have the benefit of retaining the FR air deflector. It's also a brilliant move to put the smaller rack on top! However, I'm right up against garage door clearance as it is.
Rigging off the jib crane makes it an easy on/off. The angle clips at the end of the strut are only there to retain the rigging straps; they're off now.
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To mount the tent to the rack, I'm using the 4 brackets that came with the tent, plus 2 more up front that I fabricated myself.
The awning is attached to the tent with a couple of brackets that Alu-Cab makes specifically for that purpose. Note. You have to drill holes into the tent to mount the awning to it. This puts the awning high enough that it just clears the rear spoiler when the tailgate is open
I gave up fitting into the garage a long time ago
If you want to shrink the Front Runner down and mount it up top, you will have to drill new holes in the side rails, no big deal. It won't prevent me from converting the rack back it it's original configuration in case I ever need to.
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Thanks for the reply, nice work!
TexAZ
NEW???? It's BETTER than new!!!
Replaced the window seals, where the window slides down into the door.
10 years in the Arizona sun eats up the rubber. Had to do the same thing to my tundra.
New seal, soft and pliable
10 years in the Arizona sun eats up the rubber. Had to do the same thing to my tundra.
New seal, soft and pliable
I really need to do this too. I've had to put some silicon in a few areas just to keep it all together. Easy enough to do I suppose? Where did you order from and find part numbers?
I'm sure this will work for Toyotas but this stuff is common in the BMW world to keep window and door seals in top shape.
https://www.amazon.com/nextzett-91480615-Gummi-Pflege-Rubber/dp/B004B8GTQG
https://www.amazon.com/nextzett-91480615-Gummi-Pflege-Rubber/dp/B004B8GTQG
TexAZ
NEW???? It's BETTER than new!!!
Toyota calls the part of the window seal "door belt w/strip"
front left 7572060070
front right 7571060070
rear left 7574060050
rear right 7573060050
I get my parts at camelback Toyota, they are local, have tremendous support at the parts counter and the best prices around. The service manager is a Cruiser guy too ( @murf ), great support for the cruiser community!
Camelbacktoyotaparts.com
front left 7572060070
front right 7571060070
rear left 7574060050
rear right 7573060050
I get my parts at camelback Toyota, they are local, have tremendous support at the parts counter and the best prices around. The service manager is a Cruiser guy too ( @murf ), great support for the cruiser community!
Camelbacktoyotaparts.com
I just ordered this goo - i'll let you know what I think, even if you don't care
Seconded. It's what I use on the M coupe. And the British thing.
I bought some last year (I think it was your recommendation), works well, and the little foam applicator works really slick. No overspray or schmear on the paintwork to wipe off.
Costco has similar prices on TPMS replacement sensors.
LBridges said:
He should have no problem selling a TRD supercharger for the 5.7.
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