What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (10 Viewers)
- Thread starter MScruiser
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Not from stainless ARB locker lines.
Joking aside, Unless your stock rubber brake lines are in bad shape, there usually isn't much difference in pedal feel with SS lines.
Started the suspension upgrade to Radflo shocks, TC UCA and OME springs. Started with the rear, followed the TIS and videos and a friend who has done this on his jeep. Well, first thing kicked our *ss, removing the rear lateral control rod. It was tweaked and we couldn't get the bolt out. So we got some rachet straps to release some tension. Got that out and the rest went pretty well. The springs are taller than stock so that was another head scratcher. Anyways got the rear done. Started the front, failed on the tie rod removal. The ball joint didn't pop until I deformed the stud, my fault though. So I'm ordering a new outer tied rod. The install of the shock was a *itch. Needed to disconnect the LCA from the hub/steering knuckle to get enough downward travel. Kind of pulled the axle out a bit too far before doing that. Got it back in, but I won't know how succesful I was until I can drive it. Looks so easy on the Tough dog video...
Hmmm... @dryrunner --if you pulled out your axle too far --you would know this because you can feel it leave the socket, you may have dislodged the bearings in the casing (depending on how hard you yanked it etc etc). Not a big issue -you just will need to pull your half shafts and repack the bearings .... Test is -funny noise/vibration coming from up front -bearings are loose ....
Good luck!!
Things always look easy on videos. When working outside, on your back, trying to remove rusted bolts? Not so much.
Which is why I am amazed that it took me less than an hour to install two ARB recovery points...
Which is why I am amazed that it took me less than an hour to install two ARB recovery points...
If it rattles like a baby toy, you'll know.
I swapped mine out with longer SS lines in advance of my lift so that I wouldn't have to worry about them. I think most agree you'll feel a slight improvement (especially if the vehicle is "older").
I had 100K miles on mine when I did it...and I did notice a slightly firmer (better) feel.
I'm surprised - if you removed the UCA from the steering knuckle and removed the tie rod and stabilizer bar connector - you should have been able to remove the shock assembly without disconnecting the LCA from the steering knuckle. After I did a full Tundra front swap, it was discovered I had a faulty shock assembly and so I had to replace it again...and it went pretty much like the Tough Dog video....but without the cool accent!
Of course this could have been because I had just rebuilt everything a few weeks earlier - so it was "new" looking and may have come apart easier....
TexAZ
NEW???? It's BETTER than new!!!
I find it much easier to remove the two bolts from the lower control arm to knuckle, and prop the wheel hub up on a jack stand as much out of the way as possible. if you raise the jackstand the upper control arm is out of the way of the coilover/shock/spring dropping out the bottom.
it also helps to mark the lower control arm adjusting cams, then loosen only, and let the lower arm drop out of the way.
it also helps to mark the lower control arm adjusting cams, then loosen only, and let the lower arm drop out of the way.
cc93cruiser
CRUZAHEAD
sorry for the dumb question, but I don't think I have ever seen any video display from the front camera on the navigation screen.. It' a 09 LX, is there a button to activate/display the front camera ?The whole front end on mine has a clear bra so years of driving to the mountains and back has had no effect on the paint but the poor front camera had some decent pitting. Broke down eventually and started sanding, wet sanding and then polished the lens a bit and was surprised how well it cleaned up. Not perfect as I didn't spend as much time on it as I should have but image is back to nice and clear.
on the dash behind the wiper stalk there are two buttons, one for the parking sensors and one to turn on the front/side camera. once on if you hit the auto button on the screen it will turn on the front camera every time you stop and will then switch back to your map after you hit like 5 or 10 mph
edit: found a pic online, its the one that says view.
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The whole front end on mine has a clear bra so years of driving to the mountains and back has had no effect on the paint but the poor front camera had some decent pitting. Broke down eventually and started sanding, wet sanding and then polished the lens a bit and was surprised how well it cleaned up. Not perfect as I didn't spend as much time on it as I should have but image is back to nice and clear.
My LX needs some love on the front camera too after 160k miles. I was thinking of doing this exact thing soon and had an idea of either covering the lens with clear bra or even some removable protective covering to keep on 99% of the time and remove when hitting the trail or doing something where you need it. What do you think about something like that after cleaning it up?
Yup, plan was to put clear bra film over it at some point. There is quite a bit of curvature on the lens so will probably take some heat to get it just right. Just need to find that roll of it I have buried in the garage.
This evening I have been digging my Landcruiser out from today’s blizzard. We are about 20 miles west of downtown Boston.
my office is in Cambridge - You guys have been getting hammered this month
Yup. I work in Kendall Square. Work was closed today. Commute tomorrow will be a nightmare.
What grits did you use?
