What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (5 Viewers)

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Its ~1.5 inch higher in the back.

That extra .5 is very noticeable to me but if you're happy with it, that's all that matters. I'm a little OCD and that would bug the poo out of me. :steer:
 
I have 22's in the back as well, which I have no issues with and rides great. Stock back there currently.

What is your compression set at?
 
Had to take a break from working in the hot garage on the 80 so I took her to the beach!
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Finally got around to wiring up my front light bar and rear camp lights. I had a buddy who fabricated a mount of out a sheet of 3/16" aluminum he had (total overkill, but I think he just wanted to weld something). I promptly mangled his nice fab job by hacking out a portion so that the factory wiring harness and trunk release would route under it ok. I then mounted a Blue Sea fuse box inside a weather-resistant plastic box on it, which I drilled and grommeted (is that a word?) holes for future circuits. I didn't have any good blanks so for the moment I just used a small piece of wire to plug the unused holes. (

Biggest PITA was getting the wiring harness for the lights through the firewall. On the plus side, I'm pretty pleased with the Air On Board switches (though they seem very bright)

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I have two Air On Board switches (Toyota Switches -Air On Board) - one for the front and one for the rear. They come with a 4-pin wiring connector, and I have a wiring harness that I purchased from Gamiviti (the wiring harness came with a simple stick-on push button switch which has 3 wires (black, white, and blue), but I want to use the AOB switch).
  1. I want to replace the simple push switch with the nicer AOB switch, and need to figure out how to convert the 3-way wiring in the harness to the 4-way that AOB uses. I'm thinking black=ground, white=+12V, and blue=relay, which maps to black, red, green respectively on the AOB switch. Maybe @nakman has a wiring diagram I can work from?
  2. I would like for the AOB switch backlight to be dimmable (using the blue lead), but I'm not sure what wire to tap in the vehicle
  3. I don't believe the wiring harness that Gamiviti supplied taps the headlights. Did you guys tap your high beams (so that the LEDs automatically shut off if the high beams are turned off?) Or are yours just wired to the battery and set up to operate any time?

Here's the AOB wiring diagram
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Replying to myself for posterity. AOB-to-relay was black-to-black, red-to-white, and green-to-blue. The blue wire on the AOB switch I vampire tapped into a green wire on the other button panel (left of steering wheel) as the Toyota wiring diagram suggested all the green wires on those buttons were used to control the backlighting. I did not tap the headlight circuit, so the lights can operate whether or not the headlights lights are on (I may change that for the light bar in the future though so I can link it to my high beams)
 
Finally got around to wiring up my front light bar and rear camp lights. I had a buddy who fabricated a mount of out a sheet of 3/16" aluminum he had (total overkill, but I think he just wanted to weld something). I promptly mangled his nice fab job by hacking out a portion so that the factory wiring harness and trunk release would route under it ok. I then mounted a Blue Sea fuse box inside a weather-resistant plastic box on it, which I drilled and grommeted (is that a word?) holes for future circuits. I didn't have any good blanks so for the moment I just used a small piece of wire to plug the unused holes. (

Biggest PITA was getting the wiring harness for the lights through the firewall. On the plus side, I'm pretty pleased with the Air On Board switches (though they seem very bright)

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To dim down your switches use a black sharpie to color the LED and then put this on top of it as well: https://www.amazon.com/LightDims-Or...TF8&qid=1470110851&sr=8-1&keywords=light+dims

Looks almost factory after that. You can pry the new switch out with a small flathead from the bottom too so you don't even have to pull the panel off.
 
To dim down your switches use a black sharpie to color the LED and then put this on top of it as well: https://www.amazon.com/LightDims-Or...TF8&qid=1470110851&sr=8-1&keywords=light+dims

Looks almost factory after that. You can pry the new switch out with a small flathead from the bottom too so you don't even have to pull the panel off.

I did purchase a pack of those LightDims, but I couldn't figure out how to get the switch open. The switches were almost $25 a piece, and I was afraid of cracking the plastic housing. So you're saying now that the switch is installed I should be able to pop the button out while it's still in the dash?
 
I did purchase a pack of those LightDims, but I couldn't figure out how to get the switch open. The switches were almost $25 a piece, and I was afraid of cracking the plastic housing. So you're saying now that the switch is installed I should be able to pop the button out while it's still in the dash?

Yes, just pry from the bottom and it should pop right out. The side panel should pop off easily exposing the LED's. The swtch itself can be pulled out as well if you want to color the inside of it with the sharpie while you're at it.
 
Replaced my Die Hard group 31 (Odyssey) today. Only 2 years old and as you you know, Sears quit marketing them so they were going to have to order me the Deka replacement. I wasn't having it, not that I have anything against Deka, it's just that I fabricated everything for the Odyssey. When I said I wanted a refund, the lady said "we don't like to do that" so basically I got her to refund me the total value of the replacement battery and made a few bucks!! So while I wasn't expecting to buy a new "real" Odyssey, here I am, arghh ...

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The 200 was loaded to the hilt and did a great job!

We took a long trip in our 200 a few months ago. Six of us and a lot of gear. Same thing; loaded to the hilt. I was amazed at how the 200 just handled it with no fuss.
 
Did all the rotors/pads. So easy on a 200 compared to the 100. Wife's argument for me to replace my 100 with one is getting stronger
 
Got the roof rack pieces back from powder today WOOHOO! Ended up going with 20% gloss black to match the wheels, sliders (and now license plate frame):D I've assembled it without the two laterals above the sunroof for now...



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ARB Compressor installed, THULE crossbars installed and factory crossbars removed. If anyone wants 2 factory crossbars, pay for shipping and they're yours. (claimed) Installed ARB 2500 awning using LABRAK brackets (LabRak Awming Mounts. Thule Yakima Inno Rhino). I'm waiting to mount the RTT to adjust the awning front/rear to match. I also have a Safari snorkel in my garage waiting to be installed.

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