Its ~1.5 inch higher in the back.
That extra .5 is very noticeable to me but if you're happy with it, that's all that matters. I'm a little OCD and that would bug the poo out of me.

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Its ~1.5 inch higher in the back.
I have 22's in the back as well, which I have no issues with and rides great. Stock back there currently.
8 rebound 6 compressionWhat is your compression set at?
I have two Air On Board switches (Toyota Switches -Air On Board) - one for the front and one for the rear. They come with a 4-pin wiring connector, and I have a wiring harness that I purchased from Gamiviti (the wiring harness came with a simple stick-on push button switch which has 3 wires (black, white, and blue), but I want to use the AOB switch).
- I want to replace the simple push switch with the nicer AOB switch, and need to figure out how to convert the 3-way wiring in the harness to the 4-way that AOB uses. I'm thinking black=ground, white=+12V, and blue=relay, which maps to black, red, green respectively on the AOB switch. Maybe @nakman has a wiring diagram I can work from?
- I would like for the AOB switch backlight to be dimmable (using the blue lead), but I'm not sure what wire to tap in the vehicle
- I don't believe the wiring harness that Gamiviti supplied taps the headlights. Did you guys tap your high beams (so that the LEDs automatically shut off if the high beams are turned off?) Or are yours just wired to the battery and set up to operate any time?
Here's the AOB wiring diagram
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Finally got around to wiring up my front light bar and rear camp lights. I had a buddy who fabricated a mount of out a sheet of 3/16" aluminum he had (total overkill, but I think he just wanted to weld something). I promptly mangled his nice fab job by hacking out a portion so that the factory wiring harness and trunk release would route under it ok. I then mounted a Blue Sea fuse box inside a weather-resistant plastic box on it, which I drilled and grommeted (is that a word?) holes for future circuits. I didn't have any good blanks so for the moment I just used a small piece of wire to plug the unused holes. (
Biggest PITA was getting the wiring harness for the lights through the firewall. On the plus side, I'm pretty pleased with the Air On Board switches (though they seem very bright)
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To dim down your switches use a black sharpie to color the LED and then put this on top of it as well: https://www.amazon.com/LightDims-Or...TF8&qid=1470110851&sr=8-1&keywords=light+dims
Looks almost factory after that. You can pry the new switch out with a small flathead from the bottom too so you don't even have to pull the panel off.
I did purchase a pack of those LightDims, but I couldn't figure out how to get the switch open. The switches were almost $25 a piece, and I was afraid of cracking the plastic housing. So you're saying now that the switch is installed I should be able to pop the button out while it's still in the dash?
The 200 was loaded to the hilt and did a great job!