What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (58 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I'll put together the info and post. I also have 80 extended rears. I'm too lazy to duplicate here so check this link for pics. http://forum.tlcfaq.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=287
Nice idea. I wondered why I go through the front bushings so quickly. Likely because of that extra pull/strain that exists from lifting the front. Your extended version makes the bushings look they are sitting at stock levels. Will have to try this out. Thanks.
 
All lifted trucks need this.
 
On a 2" lifted 100, the rear would use a 2" sway bar link extension. But on the front IFS, since the sway bar link is inboard of balljoints, you'd probably want about ~ 1" extension.
 
On a 2" lifted 100, the rear would use a 2" sway bar link extension. But on the front IFS, since the sway bar link is inboard of balljoints, you'd probably want about ~ 1" extension.

It feels like something in between 1-2". As I said 2" is an experiment. It's prob 1.5 for my truck. Everyone will be different.
 
Picked up used LC100 non-AHC coils.
Too hot to have a good look with 44 degrees C.
 
A little more than a week but...

I replaced both from door speakers.
Replaced drivers door lock actuator.
Took out antenna motor cleaned out and replaced antenna mast.
Took off aftermarket running boards.

Much more to do but that will work for now.
 
Wired my auxiliary 12v sockets to be always on. Has anyone ran a fridge from the rear socket with success?

ForumRunner_20140113_191346.jpg

ForumRunner_20140113_191346.jpg
 
Wired my auxiliary 12v sockets to be always on. Has anyone ran a fridge from the rear socket with success?

Yes, been doing it all year with an ARB fridge . That said, I'm getting ready to run wires from aux battery to a new fuse block for the fridge and rear LED lights to run from.
 
Surprised to hear that. The factory wires running to the rear plug are pretty small. What's the fuse size on the accessory circuit ?

The arb fridge pulls. 7 amp and calls for a. 15 amp fuse I believe.
 
ARB advertises .89 amp/hr draw for the 63qt., doesn't state max amp draw.

CURRENT DRAW 0.89 amps/hour*
*Average power consumption tested at 3°C
cabinet temperature, 26°C-31°C ambient
temperature range, test duration of 66 hours
and supply voltage of 12V DC
 
Not sure about ARB, but I believe my Norcold advertises ~5a draw and I've been running a 10a fuse after toasting a 7.5a ... No issues since then.

I've seen my 37qt pull up to 3A when starting a cycle, but never really higher than that. The ARB ado seem to be very efficient.

The Toyota outlets are rated for 120W for all of the convenience outlets, so even at a full 10A you'd be in spec.

I've had a few people say the same thing, that they were surprised, but it's never even blown a fuse. Again, I'd prefer the draw to come from my aux battery, not the starting battery, so I'm running a new 4GA to the rear to service power in the rear, which will now include rear LEDs, Ham radio, Fridge and flashlight chargers.
 
See page 25: http://store.arbusa.com/Assets/file/ARB_Fridge_Freezer_MAN_EN.pdf "rated current 12VDC 7.0A" If the OEM outlets are rated for 120W thats a 10amp load so you should be just fine, although it's got to be at least a 40' total run from the battery to the rear port and I don't think that OEM wire is that thick???

Cboyd - that aux fuse panel and wiring in the back is a bigger undertaking than I thought! I'm about halfway done:



image-1938179063.jpg

image-1938179063.jpg
 
Finally mounted the EasyAwn RTT onto my new & improved Frontrunner RR, & took the family down to Great Zimbabwe for a long weekend before school starts. The kids slept through the night up top & we had a very comfortable sleep down below. Kids can access both through the sunroof, which is a problem when the front seats become the food storage, as the tend to step on everything, as well as up the half ladder...



image-2101742365.jpg


The Castle on the hill can be seen to the right of the RTT in this next pic. Those ruins are incredible & like nothing else on the planet :) found a lot of pottery too



image-3617647786.jpg



The suitcases we put onto the front of the roof rack & the RTT cover kept them dry, and there was only a very little rain enter into the back right hand side of the tent, most likely from rain bouncing off the Front Runner roof rack... Couldn't find any holes & the kids slept through a rainstorm... I got rained on through the mozzie net I hang over the back so looking forward to the GMC envoy SUV tent that is sitting in customs, hopefully that sorts the back out

image-2101742365.jpg


image-3617647786.jpg
 
Last edited:
See page 25: http://store.arbusa.com/Assets/file/ARB_Fridge_Freezer_MAN_EN.pdf "rated current 12VDC 7.0A" If the OEM outlets are rated for 120W thats a 10amp load so you should be just fine, although it's got to be at least a 40' total run from the battery to the rear port and I don't think that OEM wire is that thick??? Cboyd - that aux fuse panel and wiring in the back is a bigger undertaking than I thought! I'm about halfway done:

I've done a few other type of vehicles in the past. This one seems harder on the planning side. Where did you bring your wires back from the battery? Through the interior or along the bottom of the chassis? Another guy locally ran though the firewall and back, but not sure it's worth tearing every trim part out just for that. Of course the ham install is probably going to be the same amount!

Since I'm running 285s and a lift, my jack is useless so in planning to use that compartment for the aux fuse panel.
 
Wired my auxiliary 12v sockets to be always on.

How does one go about this? I've searched and cannot find, but want badly for at least one of the front aux 12v's to be hot all the time.

Also, great work with the sway bar links, Robred.
 
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1389825624.115756.jpg

New plates! :) I had to and I know it's a waste but what ever...

Custom plate ☑️ = +5 hp


Sent from my iPhone, please embrace the typos

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1389825624.115756.jpg
 
New tires are on.. 265/70R18s just to be different and not to add 20lbs of unsprung weight to each corner.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom