What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (48 Viewers)

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So I have never had an issue with my truck not starting. 2006 LX470 209k miles, rust free, Texas truck, all maintenance and PM done. I’ve had an intermittent crankshaft position circuit check engine light but the truck always started and ran perfect. After an oil change and wiping stuff down the truck wouldn’t start. I pulled the crank sensor, clean and tested it. Everything with the sensor was good. I began inspecting the portion of that wire harness that moves from the crank sensor, up the front of the engine and happened to notice a pin had backed out of the plug that goes to the drivers side cam sensor. I unpinned the 3 pins and found the pin had actually come unsoldered from the plug. Some cleaning, flux, soldering, reassembly and the truck started right up. Just posting in case anyone is trying to diagnose a no-start/crank position/igniter DTC.

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Finally found a used spare 33” KO2 w/ about 40-50% tread for a few bucks mounted and balanced. This has me a bit more relieved for the upcoming summer trailing season.
 
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So I have never had an issue with my truck not starting. 2006 LX470 209k miles, rust free, Texas truck, all maintenance and PM done. I’ve had an intermittent crankshaft position circuit check engine light but the truck always started and ran perfect. After an oil change and wiping stuff down the truck wouldn’t start. I pulled the crank sensor, clean and tested it. Everything with the sensor was good. I began inspecting the portion of that wire harness that moves from the crank sensor, up the front of the engine and happened to notice a pin had backed out of the plug that goes to the drivers side cam sensor. I unpinned the 3 pins and found the pin had actually come unsoldered from the plug. Some cleaning, flux, soldering, reassembly and the truck started right up. Just posting in case anyone is trying to diagnose a no-start/crank position/igniter DTC.

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As much as I love warming up the credit card and lighting off the parts cannon, I totally gravitate towards this kind of "deep analysis" fix that carefully considers the symptoms, and locates and solves the problem. (It's this kind of mechanical insight that has me following @2001LC 's threads, for example.)

Well done, sir. User name checks out! :woot:
 
It's great. Definitely not too rigid or firm. The rear end feels more planted and controlled, especially when towing.
What brand is it?
 
Documenting some recent updates over the last few months, some with photos, others not so much:
  1. Tundra 18" wheels with AT Ascent tires
  2. 90K service (timing belt, water pump, camshaft seals, crank seal, thermostat, etc.)
  3. Power steering air control valve
  4. Radiator
  5. PCV valve
  6. Coils & spark plugs
  7. All fluids (differentials, transfer case, transmission, oil, brakes, power steering, & coolant)
  8. PS fog light wiring
  9. Starter
  10. Grease to u-joints & driveshaft
  11. Heater hose t's
  12. Hoses & hose clamps
  13. Air filter & fuel filter

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Washed it this weekend and decided to try Cerakote Ceramic Trim Coat on the faded trim pieces per Cruising the Land's Roam case review (end of video).
I first looked at restoring/painting the windshield cowl but eventually decided to give this a try first.
Right now it definitely restored the look but we'll see how it performs after the claimed 200 washes and UV rays take their toll.
Next up will be changing the Maxtrax mount and switching to a Roam case on the dated Front Runner rack.

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Documenting some recent updates over the last few months, some with photos, others not so much:
  1. Tundra 18" wheels with AT Ascent tires
  2. 90K service (timing belt, etc.)
  3. Power steering air control valve
  4. Radiator
  5. PCV valve
  6. Coils & spark plugs
  7. All fluids (differentials, transfer case, transmission, oil, brakes, power steering, & coolant)
  8. PS fog light wiring
  9. Starter
  10. Grease to u-joints & driveshaft
  11. Heater hose t's
  12. Hoses & hose clamps

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I swear it seems like everyone and their mother is doing their timing belts. Is it really not as hard as I think it is? I'm def putting it off even though I have most of all the parts on the garage bench.
 
I swear it seems like everyone and their mother is doing their timing belts. Is it really not as hard as I think it is? I'm def putting it off even though I have most of all the parts on the garage bench.
I’m always worried about a bolt or something breaking and not having the right tools or skill to remove it, much less having to find another to replace it quickly. I have to daily this so I just take it in for these more in depth jobs. If I ever get a third vehicle I may give it a go.
 
I swear it seems like everyone and their mother is doing their timing belts. Is it really not as hard as I think it is? I'm def putting it off even though I have most of all the parts on the garage bench.
My 1st timing belt job, I had 0 engine maintenance experience, other than replacing alternators and spark plugs.
I you need it done by Monday, give yourself a weekend and start Friday. Take your time, and work as late into the night as you can. You will have plenty of time to finish by Monday, even if you run into a few issues.

You can do it. Just get started.
 
My 1st timing belt job, I had 0 engine maintenance experience, other than replacing alternators and spark plugs.
I you need it done by Monday, give yourself a weekend and start Friday. Take your time, and work as late into the night as you can. You will have plenty of time to finish by Monday, even if you run into a few issues.

You can do it. Just get started.

I'm more concerned with getting distracted with the potential for "while I'm in there" side projects, ha.
While you’re in there: might as well at least do the crankshaft seal and cam seals! I’d recommend getting the special tool that bolts to and holds the crank pulley too. It’s cheap and very handy.
 
While you’re in there: might as well at least do the crankshaft seal and cam seals! I’d recommend getting the special tool that bolts to and holds the crank pulley too. It’s cheap and very handy.
I don't recommend faffing around with the crank pulley holder thingamajigeroo. On my first TB job the damn thing broke and left a bolt stuck in there. Here's a much easier way @2001LC showed me, using a cut up peice of v-belt and a chain wrench (cheap at Harbor Freight!). Requires you to unscrew the oil pressure sensor which takes abt 30 sec.

Other than that - watch @OTRAMM 's excellent video and you will be swapping TBs with ease!



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I don't recommend faffing around with the crank pulley holder thingamajigeroo. On my first TB job the damn thing broke and left a bolt stuck in there. Here's a much easier way @2001LC showed me, using a cut up peice of v-belt and a chain wrench (cheap at Harbor Freight!). Requires you to unscrew the oil pressure sensor which takes abt 30 sec.

Other than that - watch @OTRAMM 's excellent video and you will be swapping TBs with ease!



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You run the risk of ripping the damper rubber loose doing it that way. I ruined a 4Runner balancer with that trick. It was not a cheap learning experience :)
 
Plastidipped my mouldings in “gunmetal grey” after I got quoted >$1000 by a vinyl wrap shop. Super easy process as always with plastidip. Even though it’s miles better than the chipped, faded original, it’s just too light, and my OCD won’t let me have 3 different shades of grey that close to each other on the side profile. I’ll peel this colour off and try again with “stealth grey” hydrodip coming next week.

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Just wrapped up the following:
1. Replaced front CVs with OEM due to failing boots, a slight vibration, and not knowing how old they were.
2. Replaced front wheel bearings, seals, and grease (duh) with kit from CruiserTeq. You're in there, might as well. Also didn't know how old they were.
3 Attempted to do Steering Rack bushing replacement with urethane, but stopped as I thought I was heading down a dark path. Will get to this when the rack goes eventually. ;) Didn't anticipate this to be a BIG job, but it doesn't appear simple.
4. Replaced all of the front differential bushings with OEM bits from Impex. Easy and comforting to know they are all good.
5. Replaced the Hub Flanges with new including studs, cones, washers, nuts, clips and dust covers. TIP for others...order the studs before you find out yours are trashed and have to wait a week + for those to arrive even though you already had everything else, not that I'm an idiot and had to do that....:rofl:
6. General clean up, degrease, rust removal/paint refresh of the whole area.
7. Drain/fill of front diff with new juice...this perhaps was the hardest part of the whole job, LOL!

:beer:
 
Over the past few weeks, I've done a few things to make my LX nicer to drive. The interior is starting to feel pretty dialed in!

- BT45-TOY Bluetooth module install
- Proclip mount + adhesive Scosche Magic Mount magnetic holder (the one drilled for a Proclip sticks out too far and hits the wiper stalk)
- @LJE Scangauge II steering column mount purchased from @MongooseGA
- @LJE overhead DVD trim replacement; emergency blanket pictured but I plan to replace this with a mini FAK.
- Transfer case shifter extension from @cruiserpatch

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Over the past few weeks, I've done a few things to make my LX nicer to drive. The interior is starting to feel pretty dialed in!

- BT45-TOY Bluetooth module install
- Proclip mount + adhesive Scosche Magic Mount magnetic holder (the one drilled for a Proclip sticks out too far and hits the wiper stalk)
- @LJE Scangauge II steering column mount purchased from @MongooseGA
- @LJE overhead DVD trim replacement; emergency blanket pictured but I plan to replace this with a mini FAK.
- Transfer case extension from @cruiserpatch

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You have gotten her dialed in, sir!
 
Hi folks,

It's been a while and I had hoped to be able to give more of an update, but the answer to 'what have you done to your 100 series this week?' is buy even more parts.

Some of you may recall the obscene amount of stuff I bought from Japan for my 100 series that arrived in preparation for it's overhaul, and well it's not been 100% smooth sailing sadly! The truck has been away for about 1.5 months so far due various additional complications but we're getting closer to being able to pick it up.

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Despite using my VIN for parts verification on Partsouq before ordering from Japan via Japan4x4, I somehow managed to order the wrong radiator, so after the cost and shipping, import duty etc, it was wrong, so my LC guy had to go out and buy the right OEM one (-£650!), plus I ordered the wrong Aux belt and pulley (these 3 things I didn't check the numbers on myself/visual check before ordering to compare, so it's my own fault for trusting a 3rd party website). The radiator and all coolant hoses, T pieces, and radiator fixings have been replaced so that's good for another 20 years now.

There have been quite a few little bits along the way which I've needed to source, including some bigger bits too. I knew the outer housing/cover on the rear shocks was a bit crusty, but not quite this bad. As such I'm pulling the trigger and getting some new OEM rear shocks (and the stack of bushes/washers/mounts etc) ordered in the next day or two, and they'll be being replaced in the next week or so, but are likely to be coming from Japan or UAE again.

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I didn't have budget for new/refurbished injectors currently, even though I know after 238K it will most likely need them, so whilst I got the inlet removed and cleaned out, I got the valve clearances adjusted and injector seals replaced, apparently the seals were very very bad - bad enough to be causing some blowby on the engine but that thankfully is now resolved! Injectors can be sorted down the line once I get some miles under it's belt otherwise my Chief Financial Officer (my beloved), will start being less reasonable with my regular parts purchasing!

After all this work, the rear will have been completely renewed suspension, and bushing wise, just the discs/pads and some bearings to replace at the same time later this year (none of it is needed really at this stage).

The front is getting the full works minus the shock absorbers as they are okay for now. Upper & lower control arms, discs, pads, bearings, spindle bearing, CV axles, steering rack are all in progress, and it'll be taken in for a full alignment to get it running lovely. I noticed a wobble/vibration at circa 60MPH upwards which I never knew if it was any of the various components that were gone, an imbalanced wheel or something else, this will hopefully resolve it :)

All of the fluids (engine oil, coolant, brake fluid, diff & transfer box fluid, steering fluid) are being replaced as part of this, so that will also help the cause.

Despite quite a few setbacks and delays, I'm really excited to drive it again very soon. It's going to feel like a million bucks after all this, especially as it was very very tired after a long life with seemingly little maintenance. Hopefully the Toyota gods look favourably upon me and this truck from now on as every single component being fitted is OEM, which is why if you see me walking down the street I'll be wearing a potato sack and eating out of bins for the foreseeable :)

Hopefully I'll have more juicy pics soon :)
 

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