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My clearcoat hasn’t started peeling but the hood is starting to oxidize and get lots of easy scratches and those chicken feet cracks. I just bought a da polishers and some compounds I’m hoping will bring me a few more tears of looking ok. My dad’s going to take his old f150 to Maaco for their cheap paint job. If it looks halfway decent I may have to do the same. I just can’t stomach paying the cars worth on a pain job.That color looks good. I need to do the same. Mine might need a little more love. I’m honestly embarrassed with how bad the paint looks.
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My clearcoat hasn’t started peeling but the hood is starting to oxidize and get lots of easy scratches and those chicken feet cracks. I just bought a da polishers and some compounds I’m hoping will bring me a few more tears of looking ok. My dad’s going to take his old f150 to Maaco for their cheap paint job. If it looks halfway decent I may have to do the same. I just can’t stomach paying the cars worth on a pain job.
I installed this scan gauge mount I bought from Artesian Garage. It fits and looks really clean.
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That’s good to know that the maaco job was acceptable. Can’t be much worse than the rock chipped, scratched up paint that’s already there.Yea I feel the same way. Plus with the amount of trails we do, it will just get scratched up again.
The previous owner actually had this repainted at Maaco back in 2016/2017ish. When I bought it a couple years after the fact, it looked great. Since it gets parked outside the sun has just absolutely cooked it.
I’ve been considering some of the bedliner coatings, (Monstaliner, Raptorliner, etc.) but not sure I want to go with that look/feel. Also have been toying with trying to sand off the current clear that is failing and respraying new on top. If I go that route I would probably do a panel at a time.
FWIW, I had the exact same experience de-badging the back of my '01 LX. It doesn't even feel like dried adhesive to me as much as wrinkles in the clearcoat itself. I have some rust repair to do on the hatch anyway (some will be on the exterior), so I'm tempted to go ahead and try wet sanding at really fine grit and polishing to see if that can be corrected, since I am going to end up needing paint work on that panel anyway.We’re definitely not in Kansas anymoretried goo gone, cutting polish, and elbow grease to get that 24 year old adhesive all the way off, with no luck. Hopefully the aerosol 3m remover I have en route will be able to tackle it.
How do those things work? Do you have to connect to it or does it boost an area around it?I added a weboost overland reach.
27mm, I believe.What's the diameter on that rear bar?
I swapped in a standard (non AHC) rear bar on mine. It's only 1mm larger in diameter but that equates to being 19% stiffer.
Its big antenna tries to grab as much radio waves from cell towers as possible, then it has a module to amplifies it and send it to another small module the emits the signal. So all its doing is amplifying, no need to pair with it. Anything within 3-5ft of the emitter will see 10-15% gains in signal. You can see the dBm on your phone change as you turn it on. On your phone if you go to the dialer and type *3001#12345#* itll prompt you with the Field Test Mode UX. You can see what Band and RSRP your phone is getting.How do those things work? Do you have to connect to it or does it boost an area around it?
27mm, I believe.
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27mm Heavy Duty Fixed Rear 4x4 Sway Bar Kit
SuperPro Roll Control Rear Sway Bar Packages are the perfect addition to a 4WD.The resistance to the fitment of rear Sway Bars to 4WD vehicles is the flawed concept of the loss of articulation in the suspension.If the replacement Sway Bars and link package is designed correctly, replacement Sway...superprousa.com
I would like to get a better rear swaybar link. How do you like that one?Woo hoo! Finally got the rear arms (with new hardware) installed. Resonator removed for extra room and to help access rusty areas (to spray Fluid Film).
The new floor jack is a joy to use. Impact gun for scale.
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FWIW, I had the exact same experience de-badging the back of my '01 LX. It doesn't even feel like dried adhesive to me as much as wrinkles in the clearcoat itself. I have some rust repair to do on the hatch anyway (some will be on the exterior), so I'm tempted to go ahead and try wet sanding at really fine grit and polishing to see if that can be corrected, since I am going to end up needing paint work on that panel anyway.
At least you didn't spend time prepping and cleaning an are you weren't going to use. I was pissed when I realized it. I seriously thought we were going to be in and out in an hour. 3+ later we were done. I'm dreading the winch and bumper now, its just sitting in the garage now.On wednesday I took off the OEM rack to prep for installing the Prinsu Rack. I'm glad I broke it up into two different days. The bolts for the front and rear supports came out pretty easily, but the bolts for the centre supports were rusted and necessitated the use of an extractor. View attachment 3877079
Last night, I installed the new roof rack. The only time I wished I had a second set of hands was when I was putting on the paint protector. It's a little cattywampus, but it is on so there's that. Other than that, it was pretty uneventful. Its not the best picture, but this is what I took this morning. View attachment 3877080
It's great. Definitely not too rigid or firm. The rear end feels more planted and controlled, especially when towing.I would like to get a better rear swaybar link. How do you like that one?