That tie rod jam nut was SUPER tight on mine when I pulled one off. I needed to replace a rack boot and it took longer to get the dang tie rod end off than the whole rest of the job! Found out both outers were bad and need to be replaced. Seems like every time I repair something I find something else wrong...
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (26 Viewers)
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Repacked the wheel bearings. 30k since last repack and 60k since I rebuilt the front end. I little darkening on the inside of the bearings, but the grease looked good. Definitely time to do it, though.
Anyone else ever get that sickening feeling after you put the hubcaps on that you forgot to bend over the tabs on one of the Star washers?
Anyone else ever get that sickening feeling after you put the hubcaps on that you forgot to bend over the tabs on one of the Star washers?
Are the rear drawers from Coastal Offroad too? Very nice set up you got.
Thank you! The drawers are from AirDown GearUp.
I replaced my bank one O2 sensor. I think I may have only needed a gasket, but decided to install a new Denso sensor just in case. My old one was held on by rust and the single nut pictured below! As far as I can tell, the previous owner traded my LX in because their dealer told them they needed new cats.
Fitted steel winch bumper. Ready to boss those supermarket shopping trolleys at the supermarket parking lot.
Btw - whats the best way to disconnect the pump /block off the pipes for the headlight washers?
Btw - whats the best way to disconnect the pump /block off the pipes for the headlight washers?
Sexy AF - Love the bumper and the wheels!
Front wheel bearings were a little loose. Passenger side bearings looked and felt great. Grease was in good condition and the cv axle and flange splines looked good as well.
Driver's side bearings were a little discolored, didn't feel great, and the grease was in bad shape. CV splines were badly worn and flanges weren't great. So I ordered some parts tonight.
I picked her up at auction in July and I've been slowly chipping away at getting it repaired and now I'm starting in on the mechanical/maintenance stuff. Fun project!
Driver's side bearings were a little discolored, didn't feel great, and the grease was in bad shape. CV splines were badly worn and flanges weren't great. So I ordered some parts tonight.
I picked her up at auction in July and I've been slowly chipping away at getting it repaired and now I'm starting in on the mechanical/maintenance stuff. Fun project!
Import Driver, you might want to try breaking that speed sensor loose while you are in there. It may save you a ton of work in the future if you ever want to pull the knuckle assy to remove an axle, etc.
Tapping with a wood dowel and hammer is a safe method but it it feels stubborn, you're probably better off leaving it alone. If you can get it out, dremmel out the rust from the hole and then paint it to prevent future rusting. Coat the hole and sensor with marine grease before reinserting the sensor.
Tapping with a wood dowel and hammer is a safe method but it it feels stubborn, you're probably better off leaving it alone. If you can get it out, dremmel out the rust from the hole and then paint it to prevent future rusting. Coat the hole and sensor with marine grease before reinserting the sensor.
I am using the Crutchfield amplifier bypass harness (the long one that goes from amp to radio) & had no power to the radio. I troubleshoot with Crutchfield & they are sending me another radio to try. I was just wondering if you had any problems like that during your install?Finished my sound system replacement today. I started with a new head unit, speakers, and a backup camera, with a Metra harness to reuse the factory amp. When I got that installed last weekend, I had a hiss from the speakers, even while in ACC mode, and with the volume turned completely down. I had seen this on the forums, but some people who reused the factory amp did not have the issue, so I decided to try the factory amp first. Last week I ordered a new amp and a bypass harness, and it sounds awesome today. I don't currently have a sub, but could add on pretty easily if I miss it. Honestly, the sound is far above what the factory setup was, so I am pretty happy so far. The backup camera is okay, but I would recommend trying a different model. They Boyo one I got had good reviews and was recommended by the sales person, but it is kind of washed out...I haven't called to see if there is anything I can do to adjust that, but I haven't found anything in the documentation.
Here is my parts list (about $1k for everything):
- Alpine iLX-W650
- Infinity Primus PR6510CS (front with separate tweeters)
- Infinity Primus 603F (rear)
- Infinity Primus 6004a amp (fit nicely where the old amp was, but I had to fabricate a bracket)
- 2 x Metra 82-8148 speaker mount brackets
- 2 x Metra 72-8104 speaker wiring harness (2 in each bag for 4 total)
- Boyo VTL17ir backup camera
- Metra 70-8116 amp bypass harness
- Crutchfield CK8 power cable & fuse kit
- Crutchfield Reference 4-channel RCA cable - 12 foot
- Wire Harness Tape
- Blue Sea USB port
- Alpine video parking brake bypass (so I can adjust settings while not in park)
- 2 x Soundskins sound dampening for doors
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Pic of the backup camera. That washed out look is a bit annoying, but otherwise the camera works great. There is a wire you can clip to remove the cones and lines...I might do that.
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My makeshift bracket causes the amp to be not perfectly straight, but I'll never see it.
View attachment 3445067
Backup camera mounted behind the license plate frame using the same bolts as the frame.
View attachment 3445068
I had to drill for the backup camera, behind the license plate. I sealed the hole after routing the wire, then followed the same path as the other wiring on the driver's side. This took a long time, but keeps everything water tight.
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Given that he is smack dab in the middle of the miserable rust belt, it is pretty much guaranteed that his ABS wheel speed sensor it forever glued to knuckle. Ask me how I know
Another, and much easier, option is to disconnect the ABS sensor pigtail from the hood, undo a few bolts that hold it in place and fish it out through the wheel well and leave it undisturbed at the knuckle. That way you can remove the knuckle without ever having to futz with the actual sensor.!
@Import Driver you got options now
I did not. I actually started with the harness that keeps the factory amp, and had a lot of static. Once I switched to the bypass harness, and installed my own amp, everything worked right from the start.
Got my drivers side front end refresh back together and moved onto the passenger side. Had to add additional spacers for the lower control arm to fit. Still have to torque everything and replace tie rod end but I need to find some bigger wrenches. Hopping passenger side goes quicker.
Thanks for the tip! I hadn't thought about that at all.
That makes sense. I always like hearing about a different way of doing things.Given that he is smack dab in the middle of the miserable rust belt, it is pretty much guaranteed that his ABS wheel speed sensor it forever glued to knuckle. Ask me how I know
Another, and much easier, option is to disconnect the ABS sensor pigtail from the hood, undo a few bolts that hold it in place and fish it out through the wheel well and leave it undisturbed at the knuckle. That way you can remove the knuckle without ever having to futz with the actual sensor.!
@Import Driver you got options now
