It would suck big if you had to do it again, just sayin. Must be the lifetime warranty.
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (407 Viewers)
- Thread starter SHUSH
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Sumo Gear Land Cruiser Transfer Case 10% Underdrive Gear Set - Fits 8x Series Full Time 4wd Models
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Few weeks ago I downsized from 275/70R18 to 285/65R18 tires to personally experience how 285s would look like on my 9.5” wide wheels, I like it but dislike the 65 aspect, looks short lol. 35s indeed coming soon. The amazon ditch light bracket is now finished with the Diode Dynamics SS3 Pro, loving the not super raised and looks minimalist look.
LCT
SILVER Star
Would the recovery points on Dissent work just as well as the red ones you got?
I believe so both in theory and real life application. I got the red Ironman recovery points before the Dissent so I just put them back when I installed the high clearance bumper.
From how I see it the dissent integrated recovery points are suitable soft shackles because of its smooth edges around the opening. The red ironman doesn’t have the smooth edge so that’s good for the conventional iron d-ring shackles.
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@ 165k the following:
[] fresh Mobil One and OE filter
[] OE tensioner belt assy and v-ribbed belt
[] OE heater tee's
[] Powerstop slotted front discs and ceramic pads
[] changed K&N filter
[] welded cracked radiator brackets( 2 )
BFG KO2's have +/- 35K miles so starting to look at options. If not staying with the BFG's looking at Falkins or Sumitomos
[] fresh Mobil One and OE filter
[] OE tensioner belt assy and v-ribbed belt
[] OE heater tee's
[] Powerstop slotted front discs and ceramic pads
[] changed K&N filter
[] welded cracked radiator brackets( 2 )
BFG KO2's have +/- 35K miles so starting to look at options. If not staying with the BFG's looking at Falkins or Sumitomos
awesomeissquid
SILVER Star
Did you have to use a spacer to get the Ironman recovery points to fit? I am in the same boat and deciding what to do.
Yes, I used approximately 3/8” thick aluminum spacer with two holes per side same eye to eye spec at the frame thread holes because the frame bracket by dissent is not that wide and shaped like a c-channel for the Ironman recovery points to match fit.
It just happened to me too. I grabbed a needle nose plier and a head lamp right away jumped in the engine bay and luckily I got it pulled out. I just did the valve cover too. Not sure what would happen if a small piece of rubber falls in there when the engine runs.View attachment 3220352
Was going to change pcv and some hoses today. But half the grommet fell into to the hole and it’s not recoverable. Really don’t want to pull the valve cover gasket off as I just did them about 5k miles ago
Thanks! I'm confused. Did you leave the factory amp in or take it out?
Metra 70-8116 Amp Bypass Harness
Allows you to install a new car stereo and bypass the factory amp in select 2000-06 Toyota vehicleswww.crutchfield.com
I would also recommend calling them to confirm. They are very helpful on the phone.
With weather cooling off I figured it was finally time to get the LX sorted.
Quick backstory: Playing around at the offroad park in March when my heater tee blew at the back of the park. Next time I turned the ignition on temps showed 276. Limped it back down, friend saved me with some brass fittings and distilled water, got it home and tried some repairs. Continued to overheat in short tests but I never let it surpass 220. Was also dealing with hard start/no start issues so I thought it was something internal (head gaskets or the like) and decided to let it sit for a bit.
Couple weeks ago I dive back in, start pulling everything apart, and find this....
With ~60% of the radiator fins completely clogged with mud I decided to clean this out, replace a few bits (while I'm in there), and see where I'm at before tearing the engine down. Because I had the starting issues, and I'm currently at 249K, I decided to pull the IM and replace the starter.
On the IM I went ahead and replaced all injector seals, grommets, and o-rings. Also replaced all other gaskets and o-rings that would require removal of the IM a second time, then put everything back together
Battery was dead-dead holding only 5V, so testing had to wait. Was able to start it once I got 12V (ignore voltage reading on my ScanGuage below, it's fine now; final charge days later was 12.7V) and bled the cooling system. Pressure holds, no leaks, and the thermostat is opening at 188 just as it should!
Just a couple more things to sort out, namely my second AISIN fan clutch in 18 months, top off ATF, and hit my lube points, then she'll be ready to put some miles on it for shakedown. Hoping she's good by Christmas as I've got a west Texas camping trip planned.
Will be avoiding mud holes like the plague going forward..... IH8MUD
Quick backstory: Playing around at the offroad park in March when my heater tee blew at the back of the park. Next time I turned the ignition on temps showed 276. Limped it back down, friend saved me with some brass fittings and distilled water, got it home and tried some repairs. Continued to overheat in short tests but I never let it surpass 220. Was also dealing with hard start/no start issues so I thought it was something internal (head gaskets or the like) and decided to let it sit for a bit.
Couple weeks ago I dive back in, start pulling everything apart, and find this....
With ~60% of the radiator fins completely clogged with mud I decided to clean this out, replace a few bits (while I'm in there), and see where I'm at before tearing the engine down. Because I had the starting issues, and I'm currently at 249K, I decided to pull the IM and replace the starter.
On the IM I went ahead and replaced all injector seals, grommets, and o-rings. Also replaced all other gaskets and o-rings that would require removal of the IM a second time, then put everything back together
Battery was dead-dead holding only 5V, so testing had to wait. Was able to start it once I got 12V (ignore voltage reading on my ScanGuage below, it's fine now; final charge days later was 12.7V) and bled the cooling system. Pressure holds, no leaks, and the thermostat is opening at 188 just as it should!
Just a couple more things to sort out, namely my second AISIN fan clutch in 18 months, top off ATF, and hit my lube points, then she'll be ready to put some miles on it for shakedown. Hoping she's good by Christmas as I've got a west Texas camping trip planned.
Will be avoiding mud holes like the plague going forward..... IH8MUD
Couldn't say no to the Exit Offroad sale and installed Dobinson's MRA on all four corners. Huge thanks to @crikeymike for confirming bushing orientation for the fronts Sunday morning! Snapped a cross-threaded hub bolt and had to run to the dealer for a replacement, but pretty painless install overall. Set HSC/LSC/Rebound based on settings reported by @jLB and others on here, pretty close to a magic carpet ride quality on pavement. More tuning in dirt and washboards should get things even better.
Added the shocks to the driveway parts pile and updated the free listing: FREE - 100 Series Front and Rear Control Arms and OME shocks in SLC, UT - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/100-series-front-and-rear-control-arms-and-ome-shocks-in-slc-ut.1321522/
Added the shocks to the driveway parts pile and updated the free listing: FREE - 100 Series Front and Rear Control Arms and OME shocks in SLC, UT - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/100-series-front-and-rear-control-arms-and-ome-shocks-in-slc-ut.1321522/
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- exitoffroad.com
You wasted no time getting it all installed!! Glad to hear that the ride is great too
When I installed a new head unit in my 01 I left the amp in place and just make the necessary connections to by pass it.
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
I read this as "spouse handling your hardware" lol looks good though!
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
What bracket is that? Can you share the link?
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
This was a fun job. Kinda. Way harder than it had to be because I replaced the lines as well. But so satisfying to see the new, non-discolored reservoir in there!
Well, for starters...I just realized I was driving with no plate on the back of my 100 today...don't do that kids, lol
Sunday I pulled both swing outs. The tire carrier was a bit jiggly, and had to investigate. Spindle Bearing blown out, new Timken unit for both sides on order. These have never been serviced, the grease was black and watery. My garage reeks of this stuff. Cleaned everything up, and applied a light coating on Mobile 1 Wheel bearing grease to prevent any flash rusting/oxidization.
Sunday I pulled both swing outs. The tire carrier was a bit jiggly, and had to investigate. Spindle Bearing blown out, new Timken unit for both sides on order. These have never been serviced, the grease was black and watery. My garage reeks of this stuff. Cleaned everything up, and applied a light coating on Mobile 1 Wheel bearing grease to prevent any flash rusting/oxidization.
The posts are made by MaxTrax and can be purchased HERE.
For anyone thinking of attempting this, drill your mounting holes ~1/16 greater than your mounting bolts. My bars slid onto the mounting bolts easily but can no longer be removed. I believe the holes are just too tight, causing at least one of the four stainless steel bolts to bind against the aluminum. I tried lubricant and a little heat, but no dice. Suggestions welcome.
