What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (33 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Exceeded the towing capacity.. I really need a brake controller.

20230803_184607.png
 
Exceeded the towing capacity.. I really need a brake controller.

View attachment 3391806
There’s a harness/plug down in the driver’s side kick panel that’s plug and play if you buy the right pigtail online. My last cruiser came with the plug in a plastic baggie in one of the cubbies. Just butt splice onto a TBC and you’re good to go.
 
I replaced my stock AHC rear coils with Non-AHC LC coils. Very easy job and it should help with carrying my typical load. In the low setting, the rear can’t lower down anymore which is fine with me. ”N” and “H” work as normal. I haven’t checked pressures with Techstream yet. I also removed the remaining spare tire brackets and can’t help but picture a long range aux fuel tank under there…

71278157590__F52B198E-C1BF-4945-8F64-F5C3E59249F9.jpeg


71278478659__E7FD9699-AF73-4271-A15F-0ACFF6E6A1DF.jpeg


71278554445__4DA0B363-DD93-4421-880B-EDDDD986B2FD.jpeg
 
Got myself an early birthday present. New screen. My A/C controls were going out and the head until I had was going on 7 years old. Figured might as well splurge and get something I’ve been wanting. Still working on getting all the settings dialed in, but happy with it so far View attachment 3392637

More curious about the DRS than the screen—what is that?
 
Yep. And it doesn’t work very well with the screen shroud. Had to modify it a bit, but I kinda figured that. I’m probably one of the only ones that has used the ORS bracket with a Screen like this.

How sturdy is that ORS bracket (before the screen)? I'm assuming the top is double sided tap? Do you recommend?
 
After 20yrs finally figured out how to bleed the brakrs right. After eatching Otram's video on youtube, ai purcjased a powerprobe afapter and proceeded.
Few preparations are,
1. Trickle charger connected.
2. Compressor set at abput 20 psi.
3. Fresh bottles of Dot3 fluid.

A. Lifted all 4 wheels off using my new quickjack7000.
B. Removed old fluid from the reservoir to min mark.
C. With key off, pressed the pedal abput 35 times to empty the brake booster tank.
D. Noticed the reservoir back to full so removed more of the old fluid.
E. Topped off the reservoir with new fluid.
F. Turned key to pn to depressurize the booster and then connected the powerprobe adapter with 20psi air.
G. Starting from RR connected a simple bottle with a hose and released the bleeder scrrw. As the line is pressurized, no aor sucked back.
H. With the bleeder open pressed the brake pedal few times and watched the old fluid come oit.
I. Repeated all other wheels and filled the reservoir up as necessary.
J. Cleaned up everything and wjeels back on. Drove to the gravel part of my driveway and activated the ABS.
K. Topped off the fluid level and went for a short drive.
L. Felt great with a newly renewed great brake feel.
M. Decided to share my experience on IH8mud.
 
New Mevotech rear upper control arms. 302k and 23 years is apparently the life limit on the originals. For once a project that was a lot easier than I thought it would be.

IMG_7722.jpeg

Also troubleshot my front passenger window and discovered one of the ground wire prongs wasn’t making a good connection in the master switch plug. Nice not having to replace the window motor.

Finally, found a broken solder joint in the front passenger seat belt receptacle, which was causing a flashing seat belt light when my wife was there.
 
Also troubleshot my front passenger window and discovered one of the ground wire prongs wasn’t making a good connection in the master switch plug. Nice not having to replace the window motor.

What was your method for finding the bad ground connection? I probably need to check the same, but my issue appears to be more heat related.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom