What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (53 Viewers)

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Installed my new Stedi Type X-Evo, I can 100% recommend them. A good upgrade from my 13 year old Lightforce 240's
Each comes in a very nice large case/photography type case so it's a bonus.
It took about 8 business days from Australia to Canada

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Was at IKEA yesterday and saw a floor mat. It’s similar to the 3M NOMAD but top part is not made from rubber, more like plastic fiber (effective scrubbing the dirt from shoes) - but the base is rubber.
I got two panels to cover L to R floor width, traced out the second row oem mats, not too fancy but I like it. Matches the carpet too.
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Tampa Cruisers is truly a Land Cruiser Specialist - One Stop Shop!

I can't believe that it is more than a year since I first posted about the new paint job, roof rack, updates to the center console/gear shift area, adding Clearview towing mirrors, Rad Rubber Design front splash guards and changing the battery terminals to SDHQ. Since then, we have had our 100 Series Cruiser totally refreshed underneath and under the hood.

After my last posts I received a message from Manny at Tampa Cruisers in St. Petersburg, Florida, saying that he would be happy to help on the work that I planned. After 23 years of mostly on-road use I thought there would be very little work required however, Manny showed me a very different story! He was very thorough and produced dozens of pictures showing the work that needed to be done. Admittedly my ask was that he did whatever was needed for the Cruiser to last another 23 years!

Throughout the project Manny went above and beyond. He produced and estimate quickly and then stuck to it. Scheduling the Cruiser being at his shop was agreed to minimize loss of use of the vehicle. He kept me regularly updated on the project and any variations on items found, he was always very responsive to texts and e-mails. He spoke to my wife to ensure that all her issues and concerns were addressed. As a result, we successfully completed a 5,000 mile trip towing a 4,000lbs travel trailer for the first time this summer with the utmost confidence that the Cruiser could handle it without issue.

On the basis that "if there are no pictures it didn't happen" but, more to demonstrate how thorough Manny was in his evaluation and assessment of the work required, below are all the before and some of the after images.

The project took just over 2 months including ordering and obtaining a considerable number of replacement parts for the following work : -

Brakes - Replace Front & Back Rotors, Pads, Press & Grease Bearings, Replace Seals & Brake Flush.
02 Sensors - Remove // Clean // Re-Install // Reset
Coil Packs (x8) - Replace Coils & Boots
Control Arms - Replace Upper & Lower Control Arms
Coolant Housing (Cracked) Remove // Clean Area // Replace
Crankshaft Position Sensor - Replace & Clean Connector
Crankshaft Pulley - Replace
CV Axle & Seal - Right & Left Replace
Door Locks - Replace Lock Motor (x4)
Engine Mounts - Replace (x5)
Front Diff. - Drop & Replace Worn Gears, Replace Seals, Mounts, Arms & Bushings, Re-Install
Fuel Filter, Hoses & Canister Hoses - Replace
Fuel Pump - Remove & Replace Pump & Gaskets
Idler Pulley - Replace
Injectors (x8) - Injector Service // Clean & Change Seals
Oil Pan Seal - Remove // Clean // Reseal // Re-Install
PCV Valve - Replace PCV Unit & Seals
Power Steering - Replace Reservoir & Lines. Flush System
Radiator - Replace Radiator, Hoses & Clamps. Flush System
Rear Main Seal - Lower Trans - Replace Rear Main Seal
Replace Valve Cover Seals, Check Spark Plugs & Replace Spark Plug Tube Seals
Shocks - Replace (x4)
Speedometer Sensor Seal - Replace
Sway Bar - Replace Bushings & Links, Front & Rear
Tie Rod Ends - Replace Inner & Outer Tie Rod Ends
Timing Belt Cover - Remove Cover // Inspect Belt // Tighten Up Components // Re-Install Cover
Transmission Flush - Perform Whole Trans Fluid Flush, Drop Pan & Clean out Shavings
U Joints - Replace (x4) U-Joints
Undercarriage - Wash Undercarriage & Engine Compartment
Undercarriage Treatment - Blast & Clean, Prime & Coat
V Belt - Replace

In summary I would recommend Tampa Cruisers to anyone requiring help with their Cruiser. I am very satisfied with their knowledge, the results of their work and with all my interactions with Manny and his team.

Before_Med.jpg


After_Med.jpg
 
I went to do a drain and fill off my transmission fluid on my 100LC, and ran into a great big problem. The previous owner used helicoil on the transmission pan threads. By the time I unbolted the pan plug, the plug and threads came out together, with the helicoil in pieces. The drain bolt threads were smashed and stripped, and when I tried to tighten the bolt back in it only spun with just the strength of my two fingers, and would not torque up. This was devastating. I took a few expensive Uber rides to get to the dealer just so I could buy a new pan bolt, only hoping this would work. I ended up buying two since they were only around 5 bucks. What was supposed to be a 20 minute job, consumed most of my Sunday.

I finally got back to the truck and underneath to the pan, still furious with the grease monkey who screwed the threads up on this pan. I figured with a bran spankin new drain bolt I might have a chance to catch what was left of the pan threads enough to torque up. I could not get the bolt to start. I tried and tried, but I just could not get anything to grab. I considered doing my own helicoil job, but I was not about to slip with my drill and hit something beyond the pan, or get shards of metal shavings floating around in my transmission. Instead I just took my time and made sure all the old helicoil was scrapped and picked out of the damaged pan threads.

I took a deep breath and went at the hole again, this time I pushed hard on the bolt with my 3/8 ratchet and socket, while tightening simultaneously, and finally good luck strikes and I'm turning hard now. I already had my new crush washer on, so it was just a matter of keeping the bolt turning until the crush washer was flattened out. Every turn was very hard, and I was just waiting for the dreaded feeling of torque loss, but it never happened. I got the bolt all the way down, and crushed the crush washer. In the end it was probably torqued to 50 ft. lbs., lol. But the darn thing isn't leaking, and it's not coming out, nor will it ever again for what I'm concerned.

Ok, so I'm good for now, but I will want to replace transmission fluid again. I found a great thread on here on how to drain out the fluid using the power of the vehicle's trans pump, and without ever having to touch the pan drain bolt. I will probably do this slowly, a couple quarts at a time, over time, until all my fluid is replaced. I snapped a photo of where the line you pull off is located. It's the top of those two hoses in my picture. you just slap on a hose, start the truck, and the fluid will spit out of the hose. You just do this while simultaneously filling with A/T fluid. This is a slow but sure way to get the fluid out with no major issues. What do you think? Anyway, that's what I've been doing with my 100LC.

tempImageuHKTIs.png
 
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lverano said:
I went to do a drain and fill off my transmission fluid on my 100LC, and ran into a great big problem. The previous owner used helicoil on the transmission pan threads. By the time I unbolted the pan plug, the plug and threads came out together, with the helicoil in pieces. The drain bolt threads were smashed and stripped, and when I tried to tighten the bolt back in it only spun with just the strength of my two fingers, and would not torque up. This was devastating. I took a few expensive Uber rides to get to the dealer just so I could buy a new pan bolt, only hoping this would work. I ended up buying two since they were only around 5 bucks. What was supposed to be a 20 minute job, consumed most of my Sunday.

I finally got back to the truck and underneath to the pan, still furious with the grease monkey who screwed the threads up on this pan. I figured with a bran spankin new drain bolt I might have a chance to catch what was left of the pan threads enough to torque up. I could not get the bolt to start. I tried and tried, but I just could not get anything to grab. I considered doing my own helicoil job, but I was not about to slip with my drill and hit something beyond the pan, or get shards of metal shavings floating around in my transmission. Instead I just took my time and made sure all the old helicoil was scrapped and picked out of the damaged pan threads.

I took a deep breath and went at the hole again, this time I pushed hard on the bolt with my 3/8 ratchet and socket, while tightening simultaneously, and finally good luck strikes and I'm turning hard now. I already had my new crush washer on, so it was just a matter of keeping the bolt turning until the crush washer was flattened out. Every turn was very hard, and I was just waiting for the dreaded feeling of torque loss, but it never happened. I got the bolt all the way down, and crushed the crush washer. In the end it was probably torqued to 50 ft. lbs., lol. But the darn thing isn't leaking, and it's not coming out, nor will it ever again for what I'm concerned.

Ok, so I'm good for now, but I will want to replace transmission fluid again. I found a great thread on here on how to drain out the fluid using the power of the vehicle's trans pump, and without ever having to touch the pan drain bolt. I will probably do this slowly, a couple quarts at a time, over time, until all my fluid is replaced. I snapped a photo of where the line you pull off is located. It's the top of those two hoses in my picture. you just slap on a hose, start the truck, and the fluid will spit out of the hose. You just do this while simultaneously filling with A/T fluid. This is a slow but sure way to get the fluid out with no major issues. What do you think? Anyway, that's what I've been doing with my 100LC.
Click to expand...

If you just use the drain plug on the transmission you'll only get 2-3 quarts out. The transmission holds almost 12 so to get it all, you have to do an exchange using the pump through the cooler lines. It's an easy job and really doesn't take that long. I've only done mine once in 220,000 miles so I think you'll be good.

However, if that plug starts to leak or needs to come out again, you may be better off just replacing the transmission pan.

Chris
 
Down to the final details on the fuel tank project. @Bisho

Tank from the Texas LX has been stripped and repainted with POR15.

New line, breather, and clips.

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Stainless hex head cap screws replaced the 8mm bolts.

If you've worked with this part, you'll understand why.

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New Denso fuel pump ready to drop in. This was purchased 2 years ago from Rock Auto.

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Wet blasted and painted the floor with Rust Bullett.

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New fuel tank hoses.

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OEMGUY0720 said:
^^Good time to consider insulating the tank as well for the ever popular boiling fuel during the summer season/high elevation road trips on the 100.
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Yep. Need to look into this. This is an 02 model. Never experienced the issue in CO at high elevations on the 99 model.
 
OwnerCS said:
Yep. Need to look into this. This is an 02 model. Never experienced the issue in CO at high elevations on the 99 model.
Click to expand...
I had it for the first time this summer. Only one day.
 
OwnerCS said:
Yep. Need to look into this. This is an 02 model. Never experienced the issue in CO at high elevations on the 99 model.
Click to expand...
Is the tank need to be exposed to cool it on other areas or can it be fully insulated?
 
Asanka said:
Is the tank need to be exposed to cool it on other areas or can it be fully insulated?
Click to expand...
I need to learn about tank insulation. I think we have a thread on it.
 
Got some fresh air. As fresh as it can get around a bunch of cows.

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And that's when I ran out of sandpaper. :doh:

I couldn't find a fender for under about $625 shipped. And if I had found a fender I'd probably have to blend into the door and hood which is a road I don't need to go down anyway. I don't have a lot of experience repairing panels but this is how you get experience.

Still needs a lot more sanding and reapplying and sanding. But I guess this is what I call fun so... :cheers:

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War Rig said:
Lots of little stuff this week because work was crazy.

Added ye olde LX sound insulation strip along the front of the back door. The lower front door strips and the fender side ones are still on order.

Swapped out all the old cracking vaccuum lines for silicone ones.
View attachment 3317376

Also, because I was having issues with the new radio I went in and swapped all the temporary wire screws out for more permanent butt connectors... only to realize that the issue was a bad usb cable. Definitely not mad that I was able to make the connections more secure, and get a pic of all that went into merging the Miratowa and Metra harnesses...
View attachment 3317380

Oh and I finally got around to changing the oil. 2k unnecessarily dangerous miles later lol.
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What size vacuum lines did you use and where did you source them. thanks.
 
Got the coolant temp up to 218°F on the scangauge sitting in traffic for 40 minutes this weekend. It was 85°F outside. AC button blinked and was disabled. Putting in neutral and revving engine helped it cool down immediately to like 200°F and the AC came back on. Was not fun. Normally the coolant operates between 187°F - 197°F, but I'm not normally sitting in traffic in the sun on a hot day.

Looking into replacing radiator and fan clutch, both of unknown age, for next summer. Any other things to replace while I'm in there? I'll do upper/lower radiator hoses too.
 
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