You know that I carry a spare Mevotech lower control arm. I would much rather change a bent lower control arm on the trail than deal with a bent frame mount. I think of it like a fuse.
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (28 Viewers)
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The last step after banging my head against the wall…I shot all the wires and they had good continuity. Hot wired the motor and it was good. Tested the switches and they were good. Then banged my head against the wall. Finally, I looked at the prongs on the switch and noticed one that didn’t appear to have the best friction marks on it. I gave I a bit of a bend, plugged it in, and all is well.
This for the 98, 99 also?
Tinkered further in aiming the quads yesterday, “i think” I may have finally dialed it in.
My 2 friends and I got the ARB mounted up...
awesomeissquid
SILVER Star
Took a trip to the mountains and found some cool river spots to get a break from the heat.
That looks beautiful.
Where's it at?
Where's it at?
awesomeissquid
SILVER Star
Up in the Sierras.
seat covers
I fought with brake pad pins and cursed the PO.
Gruesome!
Yesterday I siliconed the third brake light block off plate and whale tail mounting bolts because I have been getting some water in the rear cargo area and thought those would be good ones to seal up even if they weren't the source of the leak.
Today I sealed the mounting clips of the third window (tilt out window) lower trim. These are where I suspect my leak is/was, as the water pools up in the first aid kit cubby on the passenger side interior panel. I hadn't seen any record of how to do this re-seal on the forum, so I snapped a few photos in case someone else has a similar leak and wants to eliminate these clips as a potential source.
I used trim tools to lift the black trim carefully. There are four clips in total and the white body of the clip does not stay linked to the black trim body very well, so go slow here.
A pronged trim tool (on the left above) is best for those pesky white clips, you can get under both sides and lift straight out as to not damage the clip.
Free up the whole trim piece first then come back to lift the white clips one-by-one. If any part of the trim is still against the body, the white clips will partially re-seat themselves while you work.
I then propped up the trim with popsicle sticks and wiped the area down with isopropyl alcohol before applying silicone around each clip and pushing down on the trim piece.
While I can't proclaim the leak solved just yet (hasn't rained!), I suspect this will be adequate to stop the leak.
Today I sealed the mounting clips of the third window (tilt out window) lower trim. These are where I suspect my leak is/was, as the water pools up in the first aid kit cubby on the passenger side interior panel. I hadn't seen any record of how to do this re-seal on the forum, so I snapped a few photos in case someone else has a similar leak and wants to eliminate these clips as a potential source.
I used trim tools to lift the black trim carefully. There are four clips in total and the white body of the clip does not stay linked to the black trim body very well, so go slow here.
A pronged trim tool (on the left above) is best for those pesky white clips, you can get under both sides and lift straight out as to not damage the clip.
Free up the whole trim piece first then come back to lift the white clips one-by-one. If any part of the trim is still against the body, the white clips will partially re-seat themselves while you work.
I then propped up the trim with popsicle sticks and wiped the area down with isopropyl alcohol before applying silicone around each clip and pushing down on the trim piece.
While I can't proclaim the leak solved just yet (hasn't rained!), I suspect this will be adequate to stop the leak.
Earlier in the week I identified where my A/C system leak was, replaced the schrader valve that was badly stuck, and vacuumed + charged the system with the help of advice from the forum, thanks to all those who have posted great A/C diagnosis and repair content here! Happy to have a working defrost again.
Did my wheel bearings with some buddies on Sunday, which went fairly smooth. I still have some vibration going on but nothing close to what it was before the new bearings. So still sorting through those woes. I've also had the timing belt replaced, radiator and brake system flushed the last two months.
Picked up an ARB Base Rack mounting kit from a local mud guy here in Houston with plans on adding extrusion bars between them versus the full rack. Finally some fun stuff!
Picked up an ARB Base Rack mounting kit from a local mud guy here in Houston with plans on adding extrusion bars between them versus the full rack. Finally some fun stuff!
Which adapter? BA10?
GTV
SILVER Star
Tested out the amazon/chineseium receiver last weekend with two not lightweight steel 29+ bikes on over 100 miles of dirt. I’m surprised to say the receiver held up just fine.
Had a guy at work 3D print me a receiver flange as a prototype before I get the actual part cut by Send Cut Send.
The receiver held up just fine to the test… however the crossmember is showing signs of fatigue in the corners where the paint has begun to crack. Not good.
Test fit with OEM Toyota hardware. I can see why the 03-05 LX has a much wider bolt pattern for a 2” square receiver. There isn’t much room to spare here. I’ll have to shave down the sides of the washers to make this work. Also, once I open it up for the receiver to pass through the hole will be right up next to the welded on threaded nuts inside.
The 03-05 LX has a square tubular reinforcement in the crossmember for this very reason. I’d like to do the same but there just isn’t enough room with the narrow pintle bolt pattern (not my picture).
I’m thinking I'll build this receiver to my specs, cut another square hole on the other side of the crossmember for the receiver to pass through, bolt it up and weld the receiver directly to the crossmember on the spare tire side to tie them together. I really don’t see another way around it short of swapping the entire crossmember to the LX style which isn’t gonna happen.
Any other bright ideas?
Had a guy at work 3D print me a receiver flange as a prototype before I get the actual part cut by Send Cut Send.
The receiver held up just fine to the test… however the crossmember is showing signs of fatigue in the corners where the paint has begun to crack. Not good.
Test fit with OEM Toyota hardware. I can see why the 03-05 LX has a much wider bolt pattern for a 2” square receiver. There isn’t much room to spare here. I’ll have to shave down the sides of the washers to make this work. Also, once I open it up for the receiver to pass through the hole will be right up next to the welded on threaded nuts inside.
The 03-05 LX has a square tubular reinforcement in the crossmember for this very reason. I’d like to do the same but there just isn’t enough room with the narrow pintle bolt pattern (not my picture).
I’m thinking I'll build this receiver to my specs, cut another square hole on the other side of the crossmember for the receiver to pass through, bolt it up and weld the receiver directly to the crossmember on the spare tire side to tie them together. I really don’t see another way around it short of swapping the entire crossmember to the LX style which isn’t gonna happen.
Any other bright ideas?
