AHC pump and headlight replaced. Forgot how insanely crystal and clear these glass lights are brand new. Now I need to sort out/replace the janky HID kit the PO put on it.
![20221009_084118[1].jpg](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/20221009_084118-1-jpg.3135837/ "20221009_084118[1].jpg")
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (77 Viewers)
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Wah00
SILVER Star
Installed new deep well cup holder from Cruiser Design and Manufacturing. 100 Series LC/LX Large Cup Holder - https://cruiserdm.com/products/100-series-lc-lx-large-cup-holder
screws were a little snug, so I had to disconnect the seat heaters and pwr/2nd switch to get it elevated enough to loosen them. But it fits like a glove now and I am looking forward to no more water bottles and drinks turning over or rolling sideways.
screws were a little snug, so I had to disconnect the seat heaters and pwr/2nd switch to get it elevated enough to loosen them. But it fits like a glove now and I am looking forward to no more water bottles and drinks turning over or rolling sideways.
awesomeissquid
SILVER Star
The previous owner on mine replaced one side so that one is a bit clearer for me. The other side works just fine but it always bugs me that it is a bit off. How do you plan to handle it? Just going to replace the other side so they match?
I'll throw some polishing compound at it and buff it clear(er) again. If it needs it, maybe some light sanding. It doesn't bother me $500-$600 worth lol
Had time to get the winch in. WARN synthetic 10k. Feet forward and clocked it so the clutch is easy to reach.
I managed to do a quick semi brake fluid drain and fill from the break reservoir. I didn't do a full brake refill. I. E. Pumped the brakes to take out all the liquid. That'll be for another time.
Basically I had one of brake fluid readers/testers. It said my fluid had up to 3% water. So I just suctioned out the fluid via my Mityvac. It was able to go deeper than with just a turkey baster.
Refilled using dot 4 fluid. Did the break tester test again which showed fluid was ok after refill. Pumped my brakes and made sure everything is working good.
Basically I had one of brake fluid readers/testers. It said my fluid had up to 3% water. So I just suctioned out the fluid via my Mityvac. It was able to go deeper than with just a turkey baster.
Refilled using dot 4 fluid. Did the break tester test again which showed fluid was ok after refill. Pumped my brakes and made sure everything is working good.
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Rebooted my passenger CV axle this evening. Shoutout to buddies with the space, tools and knowledge to make it an easy process! Went about as smooth as one could hope.
Did a brake fluid flush/ complete replacement. The engine off, I pumped the brake pedal 40 times to relieve all pressure and fluid from the accumulator. The fluid level in the brake reservoir rose a little over 1”. Used a turkey blaster with a small hose attached to slip through the forward slot and into the bottom of the reservoir… was able to remove all but 1” of the reservoir fluid. Refilled with DOT3. Then hooked up my power bleeder filled with more DOT3. Opened each brake bleeder until it ran clear.
But I do not have tech stream so as to clean out the brake fluid from the ABS system reservoir. Other members had spoken of finding an open field to haul ass and stomp the brakes to activate the ABS… But I thought to myself, self, why not let A-Trac activate the ABS to flush the fluid? So I did… I went to my local giant earthen berm parking lot, and rolled up a very loose and steep dirt hill… Four wheel low, center diff locked, and let A-Trac do its business to try and help me climb…
Came back home and, using the power bleeder again, I flushed all 4 wheels brake bleeders one more time… after a few ounces of clear fluid, I actually got some more discolored fluid out until it ran clear again.
As it sits now, the reservoir fluid is completely new and clear, and I feel confident that >99% of the fluid in the brake pistons, brake lines, accumulator and ABS has been exchanged for new fluid.
But I do not have tech stream so as to clean out the brake fluid from the ABS system reservoir. Other members had spoken of finding an open field to haul ass and stomp the brakes to activate the ABS… But I thought to myself, self, why not let A-Trac activate the ABS to flush the fluid? So I did… I went to my local giant earthen berm parking lot, and rolled up a very loose and steep dirt hill… Four wheel low, center diff locked, and let A-Trac do its business to try and help me climb…
Came back home and, using the power bleeder again, I flushed all 4 wheels brake bleeders one more time… after a few ounces of clear fluid, I actually got some more discolored fluid out until it ran clear again.
As it sits now, the reservoir fluid is completely new and clear, and I feel confident that >99% of the fluid in the brake pistons, brake lines, accumulator and ABS has been exchanged for new fluid.
Removed the rear cover of the transfer case to get at the loose dust shield that has been making noise. Got it fixed and went ahead and put a new seal in.... Having some trouble getting it back on though, seems like it isn't sitting flush by a tiny bit on the drivers side. All the videos I've seen show them doing it with the whole tcase off the car... Hmmmm, gonna call it quits and take another stab at it tomorrow.
TRDdrew
SILVER Star
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Well after having these on the shelf for 2 years lol I finally got around to installing my VX led taillights
TRDdrew
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make sure the oil pump drive cog is lined up perfectly or it won't sit flush
Oh man I really love that 4WD emblem, ordering one now!
TRDdrew
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it looks sharp Andrew ,
i installed them on both front side door of SUPER HILUX too .....
i installed them on both front side door of SUPER HILUX too .....
OEM NON-USA TOYOTA 4WD Side Door Badges EMBLEM BADGE FJ60 FJ62 FZJ80 FJ80 FZJ70 BJ70 - VintageTEqParts.com
- OEM NON-USA TOYOTA 4WD Side Door Badge emblem - FJ60 FJ62 FZJ80 FJ80 FZJ70 BJ70 HILUX - SUPER HILUX - ...
vintageteqparts.com
So my tailpipe to resonator broke off at the muffler and partially fried the harness to my rear elocker. New muffler arrives today, hope to drop the old one, try to solder broken wires back together and get the new one hung.
YezusLX
SILVER Star
Huge shout out to @ClassyJalopy and @MongooseGA for being generally awesome and having some fantastic ideas to help me along. I had that super sweet cold start 007 Bond smoke screen going on. After eliminating the scaries like head gasket failure or compression loss we came up with this. Thanks, fellas you rock! Burned coolant temperature sensor. I owe you guys some non-HR-approved contact at a later point. Or adult beverages.
Stuff used:
P/N 89422-20010 $57 + new copper crush washer
pick for releasing the plastic clip
19mm (left loosey/righty tighty)
PB blaster for 15 mins.
rag to wipe off the coolant and PB blaster
brake clean to clean up the mess after
One creative curse word
wash your hands you filthy animal.
Stuff used:
P/N 89422-20010 $57 + new copper crush washer
pick for releasing the plastic clip
19mm (left loosey/righty tighty)
PB blaster for 15 mins.
rag to wipe off the coolant and PB blaster
brake clean to clean up the mess after
One creative curse word
wash your hands you filthy animal.
Those wires running up to that sensor experience a lot of heat cycles and become brittle, you may want to wrap the end there with some extra electrickity tape
YezusLX
SILVER Star
Good call sir. That will be next. Thank you. I have some spare loom lying around from that awesome alternator mess so I'll throw that on there for safekeeping along with the electrical tape.
View attachment 3138124
It may be the angle of the photo… but it looks like extra slack in the throttle cable…?
I already know @ClassyJalopy will pass on the drink so I'll take that, you can give him the adult contact.
