YezusLX
SILVER Star
It looks like you had a slow few days. Haha
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (23 Viewers)
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Pretty self explanatory. I ran the (+) wire along the drivers side frame rail and tucked it into the plastic tabs that would have held the AHC lines. Remember you'll want to use at least 12 gauge wiring per the instructions, butt connectors and ground connector. I removed my underneath spare tire carrier since I have a swing out so I just used the existing hole/bolt for a ground as shown in the pic.
Recommend using a circuit tester to make sure all your connections work and clean them as well as you can especially if you have corrosion/rust. I ended up using a little dielectric grease too.
Overall a 1 banana job with very minimal "wiring" needed. Just some crimping of heat shrink butt connectors.
Was wondering how the top was supposed to snap in as it currently doesn't. Reusing the clips makes sense, will do this tomorrow!
Edit: Decided not to wait for tomorrow since it only takes a minute. Used two of the clips from the OEM unit and it looks much nicer now as there's no gap on top. Thanks for the tip!
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The garage does wonders in regards to slowing the aging process of the truck. Or any car/truck for the matter. The garage prevents accelerated rubber/ FIPG gasket ageing under CA sun. The ARACO Japan built Mall Cruiser has 0 leaky OEM oil/fluid gaskets to date and they all still seal perfectly after 23 years
I’ve got a beater 2nd gen FWD Sienna sitting on the driveway all life, looking probably 10 years older than the “00 LX when the Princeton built Sienna’s 5 years younger with leaky seals.
While CA sun vs garage matters, I think a Japanese built automobile’s really hard to beat on quality control that holds up well under extended use even though America built Yotas are still great.
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Replaced my timing belt this past week. Following @OTRAMM ‘s YouTube tutorials almost made it easy.
Two tips for future DIYers.
1. Going 50 degrees past TDC per the instructions for a 2002 added a lot of stress. The cams jerked a few degrees once the belt was off. I panicked thinking I botched it. Turns out it’s easily recoverable though. Next time I’ll try removing at TDC instead of 50 degrees past it.
2. Those fan clutch nuts are a PITA. Only tool I had that worked to keep the thing from spinning was one of those HF ball joint separator forks.
Two tips for future DIYers.
1. Going 50 degrees past TDC per the instructions for a 2002 added a lot of stress. The cams jerked a few degrees once the belt was off. I panicked thinking I botched it. Turns out it’s easily recoverable though. Next time I’ll try removing at TDC instead of 50 degrees past it.
2. Those fan clutch nuts are a PITA. Only tool I had that worked to keep the thing from spinning was one of those HF ball joint separator forks.
Like sauce box said, keep the nut loosely on for sure.
It also helps to push, not just pull. Yank-push-yank-push. It’ll give eventually. Removed mine a few times, never needed a proper puller (although I’m sure that would make life much easier).
@saucebox @Beto Cruiser done and done. Thanks for the tips gents. Still have 'muh grill. And a pretty damn skimpy new wheeel if I must say.
I suffered that in a bad way last summer starting in early August. My problems started with an aftermarket reservoir and cap that would not properly seal. So without an airtight seal, dirt and mud were sucked up into the reservoir. The clogged reservoir and particulate caused the pump to fail. Then it turned into multiple system flushes and another damaged pump until I could get the system cleared up. Make sure your cap seal o-ring is tight. I use a fluid extractor like MitiVac to keep an eye on fluid quality since then.
Had to order a battery. It drove just fine on Sunday, and Dead as a door nail Monday morning. No lights were left on, as far as I could tell. It was also a cheap matter and the wrong group size. Ordered a 27F Optima Yellow today. I’ll have to look for a voltage leak this week.
GTV
SILVER Star
The only problems I’ve had with this truck was with the AHC right when I picked it up in Michigan and the booster pump in Yellowstone on my way back home to Washington. It’s been flawless for nearly 30k miles and almost exactly two years until last Wednesday when I got near Yellowstone again. At the exact same time I find the LR caliper was sticking and the fuel pump starting to go out. Fingers crossed I’ll get to Michigan without further incident.
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Another long day of wrenching on the War Wagon. I’m really looking forward to taking it on an adventure instead of working on it.
Yesterday I changed the radiator and coolant and flushed the brake fluid. The radiator was original and lasted 17 years and 252k miles before it started to leak. Despite all common sense, I couldn’t bear the price of an OEM radiator (now seems to be made in Mexico), so I ordered a Denso (made in Taiwan) from Rockauto. I also swapped the upper and lower radiator hoses and the thermostat with OEM Toyota.
The brake fluid was of unknown age and a pretty nasty dark green. I replaced it with Toyota DOT 3. I had no way to actuate the ABS in my garage, so I tried the slam on the brakes in a gravel parking lot method. I think it worked. The fluid came out a bit green during the second bleeding after being pure clear before.
Yesterday I changed the radiator and coolant and flushed the brake fluid. The radiator was original and lasted 17 years and 252k miles before it started to leak. Despite all common sense, I couldn’t bear the price of an OEM radiator (now seems to be made in Mexico), so I ordered a Denso (made in Taiwan) from Rockauto. I also swapped the upper and lower radiator hoses and the thermostat with OEM Toyota.
The brake fluid was of unknown age and a pretty nasty dark green. I replaced it with Toyota DOT 3. I had no way to actuate the ABS in my garage, so I tried the slam on the brakes in a gravel parking lot method. I think it worked. The fluid came out a bit green during the second bleeding after being pure clear before.
The CA climate has a lot to do with it as well.
Either way, love how clean it is. Congrats!
Finally got the steering rack out! My lower bolt just below the steering shaft u-joint came out east enough, but a couple hours of pulling, hammering, digging farther into the timing belt/ water pump stuff, and I couldn’t get it to release. Re-read the steering rack thread and saw someone had pulled it out with the shaft attached…out in 5 minutes…this would have been ZERO fun without pulling out all the other stuff I already did (shroud, fan, radiator, pulleys, etc). Now, to degrease… Also, one big question; I measured the inner tie rods as it came out, centered, but the ds one is 11” out from the boot band, and the ps one is 10”.(?) any ideas?
awesomeissquid
SILVER Star
Having completed the engine rebuild not too long ago, we had only really done local trips to limit our exposure incase something went wrong. Feeling confident in my work, it was finally time to take it out there. Spent 6 days on the road covering ~750 miles. Camped and went off-roading to some cool spots. Truck handled everything like a champ.
Right before we left I finished up a custom tray in the engine bay for the air compressor. I decided to relocate it here since it was getting caked in dirt while mounted under the vehicle. Pretty happy with the spot, just need to touch up a few areas and finalize the wire mounting.
Our favorite part of the trip was heading up to Leavitt Lake. It has a decent amount of trail to make it up and we saw a bunch of vehicles that had to turn around, so it felt pretty good to make it all the way. Our original plan was to just do a day trip, but it was too beautiful so we stayed the night. Overall trip was a success and we made it home safe and sound. For fun I calculated our average mpg to be 14.1mpg.
Right before we left I finished up a custom tray in the engine bay for the air compressor. I decided to relocate it here since it was getting caked in dirt while mounted under the vehicle. Pretty happy with the spot, just need to touch up a few areas and finalize the wire mounting.
Our favorite part of the trip was heading up to Leavitt Lake. It has a decent amount of trail to make it up and we saw a bunch of vehicles that had to turn around, so it felt pretty good to make it all the way. Our original plan was to just do a day trip, but it was too beautiful so we stayed the night. Overall trip was a success and we made it home safe and sound. For fun I calculated our average mpg to be 14.1mpg.
I went through all that with a new rack and didn't change the intermediate shaft to get a new u-joint. It started failing (binding) last fall on turns. It has just been replaced. If you're going to this much trouble, go all the way.
I celebrated 200K miles, and 12 years of ownership with:
ARB/OME 1.5” lift:
OME Coil Spring - Rears - '91-07 Land Cruiser - PAIR - Slee Off Road - https://sleeoffroad.com/products/ome2865/
OME Torsion Bar Set - '98-07 Land Cruiser - Gas - Slee Off Road - https://sleeoffroad.com/products/ome303001/
OME Nitrocharger Sport Shock - Front - '98-07 Land Cruiser - Slee Off Road - https://sleeoffroad.com/products/n60000-s/
OME Nitrocharger Sport Shock - Rear - '98-07 Land Cruiser - Slee Off Road - https://sleeoffroad.com/products/n60002-s/
Lexus 200K Club Badge from:
toyotahighmileageclub@gmail.com
Last but not least a full wash, wax, and detail.
ARB/OME 1.5” lift:
OME Coil Spring - Rears - '91-07 Land Cruiser - PAIR - Slee Off Road - https://sleeoffroad.com/products/ome2865/
OME Torsion Bar Set - '98-07 Land Cruiser - Gas - Slee Off Road - https://sleeoffroad.com/products/ome303001/
OME Nitrocharger Sport Shock - Front - '98-07 Land Cruiser - Slee Off Road - https://sleeoffroad.com/products/n60000-s/
OME Nitrocharger Sport Shock - Rear - '98-07 Land Cruiser - Slee Off Road - https://sleeoffroad.com/products/n60002-s/
Lexus 200K Club Badge from:
toyotahighmileageclub@gmail.com
Last but not least a full wash, wax, and detail.
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awesomeissquid
SILVER Star
Nice job with the detail! It looks brand new.
Weee new car
