What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (38 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I got her back.
She left South Florida over 3 weeks ago. Went to Denver, drove to Ouray, did most of the trails, back to Denver, and then shipped back home. She’s a little worse for the wear( I have some work to do) but I cannot think of a better vehicle to do it in. Glad to have her back and time to start planning the next one. #sanjuanmountainrally.
77A6046B-1EE5-43CE-B1E9-9CCC3AB0F41A.jpeg
 
Did you plan on shipping her home, or did some things pop up? Long trip from FL for sure.
I shipped her out to Denver, then back to South Florida after my time out there. Unfortunately my occupation makes it a little tough to take two weeks off, so I cannot drive her out there.
 
Replaced drivers side ball joint have to do passenger side another day. Also picked up almost a brand new set of BFG KO2 from my friend who’s building up his new GX460. Got the set for $400

B691A483-8745-49EE-8413-C9344F235FDF.jpeg


EF3D0C17-4AE3-49AC-B459-97C5F5BB2AA4.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Finally fixed my Drive/Reverse clunk.

After cross country trips, I bit the bullet and replaced the aftermarket CVs with OEM Toyota axles. At the same time I had the front wheel bearings replaced and the front diff support bracket replaced (using OEM part with the integrated bushing). I wish I could say I did these repairs all myself. $2300 parts and labor for a Land Cruiser specialist to replace the CVs with OEM, new bearings and new diff support. It was not an easy pill to swallow, but I believe their labor charges were fair and I sleep well knowing it was done the right way. With one CV boot torn flinging grease, and the other boot heavily cracked plus a vibration around 70 mph that was not tire related - it was time. With the repairs above, all of these issues are gone. Hoping this is the last set of CVs this truck will need, and I will rebuild if needed from here on out!



PS - previously, using advice from others on this forum, I drew a chalk line on my CVs and pointed a camera at them while I sat parked, engine running and shifted through DNR. You could see and hear the CV move and clunk within the drive flange. That is how I knew the source of the clunk on this rig - plus a friendly point in the right direction from Ryan at OTRAMM.

View attachment 2752192
Do you have the part number for the diff support?
 
Do you have the part number for the diff support?
Sure thing: 52380-60030
SUPPORT ASSY, FRONT DIFFERENTIAL
Partsouq has the full arm for $86 (easier install)


There are three support points w/bushings on the front diff. Kits from Cruiser Outfitters/Teq carry them all. You have the choice of replacing the support arm as one piece (OEM) or cutting/punching out the bushings and pressing in a new one. Here are the Cruiser teq options if you want to see those


-or-


There are some good threads out there on diff support bushings replacement. I found CV replacement was night and day better on my rig, the front diff support arm likely just soffened shifting by getting the hardened rubber swapped out.


Good luck!
 
Last edited:
Hauled 2,200lbs of vinyl plank flooring + trailer weight (~1,100lbs) to the new house and she didn’t even break a sweat. 98° air temps and cruising at 65mph around 2200rpms caused it to briefly touch 188° coolant and 150° trans but it didn’t hang there for long.

9BA523A3-E7C6-4180-A4B7-A29A60BBB351.jpeg


0113835A-3F85-4B0A-82AC-5A68820CAEE7.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Sure thing: 52380-60030
SUPPORT ASSY, FRONT DIFFERENTIAL
Partsouq has the full arm for $86 (easier install)


There are three support points w/bushings on the front diff. Kits from Cruiser Outfitters/Teq carry them all. You have the choice of replacing the support arm as one piece (OEM) or cutting/punching out the bushings and pressing in a new one. Here are the Cruiser teq options if you want to see those


-or-


There are some good threads out there on diff support bushings replacement. I found CV replacement was night and day better on my rig, the front diff support arm likely just soffened shifting by getting the hardened rubber swapped out.


Good luck!
Thanks for the help!
 
Was scheduled to get a new OEM TOYOTA windshield this morning (surprisingly my insurance company approved the $1K cost for genuine TOYOTA and I have no out of pocket on glass), but understandably, Safelite wants the rust addressed first. So I got some estimates and scheduled the work to be done.

After the windshield is professionally removed by Safelite, the collision shop is going to sand down the rust around all four corners of the opening, treat it with POR-15, and then prime, paint, and blend it. I also asked them to paint the rock-chipped grille winglets. $535 is what it’ll cost me. Sure, I probably could’ve gotten it cheaper at some hole-in-the-wall shop, but good work isn’t cheap and cheap work isn’t good.

View attachment 2751975View attachment 2751976View attachment 2751977

What look like grind marks are apparently some jack hole’s carelessness with a knife edge to remove the moulding and treat the rust prior. I have the receipt from the previous owner and he didn’t spend very much to address the rust then. It shows.

View attachment 2751979

Rock chipped winglets.

View attachment 2751980
Fit the acoustic insulated windscreen glass if you able to as it reduces sound and increases comfort levels considerably. Its standard for most of the Lexus models
 
Replaced this little conveniently located evaporator case seal.. Man that's a tight fit. 184k miles and she'd had enough. No more passenger floorboard drip *the Toyota engineers really dropped the ball on that whole design..
1.jpg
2.jpg
 
Hauled 2,200lbs of vinyl plank flooring + trailer weight (~1,100lbs) to the new house and she didn’t even break a sweat. 98° air temps and cruising at 65mpg around 2200rpms caused it to briefly touch 188° coolant and 150° trans but it didn’t hang there for long.

View attachment 2753161

View attachment 2753163
Would you please let me know the X-Code inputs you have to get transmission temp working? Used some that I found in another thread but it didn’t work. I have an 02 and yours looks close enough.
 
Would you please let me know the X-Code inputs you have to get transmission temp working? Used some that I found in another thread but it didn’t work. I have an 02 and yours looks close enough.
I believe I used this one


ScanGaugeII supports Landcruiser transmission temperature. Here's a pic I took today:

2013-08-29


Model year 2000. I'm not sure if I can pull the code I used, but I recall that I found it on the Internet. I think this is the one that worked:

TXD: 686AF101B4
RXF: 044105B40000
RXD: 2808
MTH: 00090005FFD8

You can try that and see if it works. You can also label it however you want, I chose TM* (Transmission Degrees) but you can make it any 3 letter code you want.
But if that doesn’t work try these

This code worked on my 05

Scangauge:
TXD: 686AF121B4
RXF: 046105B40000
RXD: 2808
MTH: 00090005FFD8

Heres a thread to research other options: I think the codes that work on the newer 100's are backwards compatible

Transmission temperature on a late model 100 series

And then a more in-depth thread:
Torque app plus bluetooth adapter in my 100

Thanks, I have the code necessary (should have stated that). Looking for the procedure to enter the code (Xcode) into my ScanGauge.


TXD – 686AF101B4

RXF – 044105B40000

RXD – 2808

MTH – 00090005FFD8 for deg Fahrenheit
 
Spent entire day gutting the interior, to sound deaden and dye the carpet black. Neither needed to be done, carpet looks new and there's no excessive noise into the cabin, just got bored. Driver's seat is at the upholstery place getting a new bottom cover, should get it back mid week.

51365440783_c88556efe1_b.jpg


51366202974_ac2ca7137c_b.jpg


51365465811_7fc2c27960_b.jpg


51365440848_b1c8c860ce_b.jpg


51365953664_8bba3e5649_b.jpg


51365960876_3499484f52_b.jpg


51365201942_b7df509186_h.jpg


51364460447_9d785073aa_b.jpg
 
Spent entire day gutting the interior, to sound deaden and dye the carpet black. Neither needed to be done, carpet looks new and there's no excessive noise into the cabin, just got bored. Driver's seat is at the upholstery place getting a new bottom cover, should get it back mid week.

51365440783_c88556efe1_b.jpg


51366202974_ac2ca7137c_b.jpg


51365465811_7fc2c27960_b.jpg


51365440848_b1c8c860ce_b.jpg


51365953664_8bba3e5649_b.jpg


51365960876_3499484f52_b.jpg


51365201942_b7df509186_h.jpg


51364460447_9d785073aa_b.jpg

Going to be whisper quiet in the cabin now.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom