What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (65 Viewers)

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Started to baseline my recently purchased (March '21) 2001 LX470. It came with service records until about 5 yrs back when the PO stopped using the dealership for service. So, I figured a baselining was needed.

  • Replaced the Engine Oil
  • Replaced all the air filters - Cabin & Engine
  • Washed up the engine bay in preparation for some more work in the upcoming week. Waiting on parts & materials
    • Change out spark plugs.
    • Considering replacing coil packs as well. Should I?
    • Timing belt replacement - AISIN TKT021 on the way
    • Replace Fan belt
    • AHC Flush
    • Transmission oil flush
    • Diff oil flush
  • Removed the engine skid plate, cleaned the rust and painted the inside with engine enamel paint
 
Finished up rewiring the trailer harness so I could tap the signals for the Jason @TRAIL TAILOR rear bumper lights and install towing adapter directly in the bumper. I cut the factory towing harness and then used molex ring terminals. I mounted the trailer box on the spare tire cross member. I also routed in the 7 wire trailer cable to go to the new in bumper towing adapter and from the LED lights integrated in the bumper and the license plate frame light I got off amazon.

In the picture below the oem trailer wiring is coming in from the left. I used some deka 7 wire trailer cable to run to the new trailer connector (in the bottom right). The bumper wiring is coming in from the bottom left. The junction box came with grommets that I added a bit a silicone to waterproof the entry points. There isn’t a gasket on the lid, so I will go back and add a bead of dielectric grease or silicone to seal it too.
6F006307-FC8A-4B45-967D-1DC8216240A8.jpeg

My factory harness was SAE J2863, I ran conduit over the wires to better protect them after finishing the wiring.
1621831076295.png


I was super nervous about cutting into the bumper, but wanted the towing adapter to be cleanly routed and protected from dragging unlike the factory one. I used a 2 1/4’’ hole saw and then drilled 1/8” diameter holes for the towing adapter mounting bolts. I went with the Hopkins 48470 which has the 4/5 pin included with the typical 7 blade.
651E6DC5-3CBC-47B1-ADF2-197B6A2AEDA8.jpeg
 
Last edited:
blackohio said:
Took some pictures as i decided to sell it this weekend since we have 5 different trucks and sprinters at work i can use
to take the utv out and my new work commute is a bit longer than i want until our new house is ready so i decided to get back into an audi. gonna buy a 4.0tt s6, rs7 or s8 next.

View attachment 2680813View attachment 2680814View attachment 2680815View attachment 2680816View attachment 2680817View attachment 2680818
Click to expand...
Looks DAMN GOOD! Rear bumper source??
 
Super flush! The passenger side engine block drain is a PITA to reach in…didn’t tighten enough during one flush and dropped some fluid on the driveway. Fortunately it was on flush 3 so minimal damage and I just got a power washer 💪🏼
576DA245-5608-448C-9718-CB92501262FE.jpeg
C3A6795A-DBCC-46A5-B7F2-E2F5C09D9B15.jpeg
 
Just finished the brakes all around, New DBA slotted rotors, factory calipers, DBA pads, stainless brake lines, bearings, seals, damn near complete rebuild of the AC (as far as I'm concerned), new drier, evaporator, a few sensors, full vac/refill, this all after the rebuilt alternator, new radiator, hoses, belts, new "military grade/style" battery cable terminals, probably 40 feet of new vacuum lines and a good bit of heater hoses that have seen better days. (23 years is a long time on rubber especially down here in sandland., and full flush of every fluid I could think of, oil, trans, coolant, brakes, power steering, Oh and did those darned heater hose Ts. Those were lots of fun since both of them fell apart in my hands (just like the alternator plug did) on removal. Lots of fun getting all the crap out but feel like I got all the little pieces. Next is the dual battery system and mount/battery/etc. 4 new 285/75/16 BFG TA KO2s going on Wednesday. (Its hell to try to go with the same tires that have been run for the last 7 years only to find the manufacturer stopped making them and the replacement is made two sizes smaller) and then looking to find someone that does a nice job powder coating as the wheels look like pure crap. Going to go flat black unless they show me something that makes me feel tingles....Next up is to decide on a drawer set up in back/buy or build. With the cost of lumber now it may be better to buy a premade set up. Oh and soon I have to have the hood painted due to no clearcoat left and actually losing some paint so,,,want to match the color yet matter/flat finish it as opposed to factory. Hopefully soon will be the rear bumper/tire/can carrier, OME lift, dig drop, and some other goodies. I figure after this it should be good for a few more miles.
 
Last edited:
RoughOne said:
Strong arms became Weak arms, replaced with No name arms.
Click to expand...
I've had the same experience. Not impressed. Looking for a stronger option - seemed like the cold/freezing weather took the piss out of them.
 
7toy9 said:
Super flush! The passenger side engine block drain is a PITA to reach in…didn’t tighten enough during one flush and dropped some fluid on the driveway. Fortunately it was on flush 3 so minimal damage and I just got a power washer 💪🏼View attachment 2682995View attachment 2682996
Click to expand...
My year takes the Pink non-dilutable coolant. So it has been suggested not to flush with distilled water since you can't get 100% out. I'm trying to figure out the best way to evacuate as much old coolant as I can. So my question is :
1) Does it help to raise the front end to assist in draining the blocks?
2) Any suggestions on the best way to access the PS block drain.
 
menancyandsam said:
My year takes the Pink non-dilutable coolant. So it has been suggested not to flush with distilled water since you can't get 100% out. I'm trying to figure out the best way to evacuate as much old coolant as I can. So my question is :
1) Does it help to raise the front end to assist in draining the blocks?
2) Any suggestions on the best way to access the PS block drain.
Click to expand...
I'm far from a mechanic...so take my experience with a grain of salt:
1/ I had the front end on wheel ramps, raised about 8-10 inches off the ground...seemed to push out almost 3.33 gallons (between engine block and radiator)
2/ Get a u-joint socket...helps maneuver in there. But honestly it's tough and you can't see so even with that tool I am not looking forward to the next 2 flushes....and make sure engine is cool!

and I'm in a 99 LC, so takes the red 50/50 mix
 
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