What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (41 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Tstx92 said:
Yeah, you can remove the castle nut and then put it on upside down until the base is even with the stud. Then hammer the housing that the ball joint is pressed into. Pound that sucker hard a few times and it should pop out.
Click to expand...
Perfect, I’ve had good luck so far getting all the ball joints free with just a few good whacks. Just more concerned about it now that I have all new ball joints (lower, upper ball joint and tie rods)

Thanks!
 
Last edited:
Put on a used steering wheel from ClassyJalopy! It was way better condition than the one I had, and I want the whole thing to look more original, so its a huge improvement for me.

IMG_3439.jpg


IMG_3437.jpg
 
Heater T's and some YODA Pink to top things back up this afternoon... My Slee spacers will soon be on their way so I can get my RWs and Falkens on the rig.
 
Tstx92 said:
Yeah, you can remove the castle nut and then put it on upside down until the base is even with the stud. Then hammer the housing that the ball joint is pressed into. Pound that sucker hard a few times and it should pop out.
Click to expand...

If you're lucky, this will happen. I have big hammers and pretty much just gave myself a great core workout trying to get mine to release.

Here's a thread about what to do when the BJ's don't just magically pop loose: Lower Ball Joint really screwing with me
 
crustyLC said:
Spent last couple days installing ARB Sahara bumper (plain Jane w/no buffer or bar) and Smittybilt XRC 9500 lb winch. No room under bumper for control box so mounted it on top. Bumper install more tedious than complicated. This forum much more helpful than included instructions.View attachment 2435115

View attachment 2435121Few hours on the trail today but no need to test the winch.
View attachment 2435122
Click to expand...
Looks really good without the hoop. I have been trying to nail down which bumper to get. Thought I had ruled this one out but it looks really good on your truck. I have a black 99 myself. Which ARB part number did you go with? The 3913140 which is for our model years or the 3913160 for the newer model years. I know I have heard to get the newer year part number for the bull bar. Not sure on the Sahara bar. Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks.
 
Loaf said:
Looks really good without the hoop. I have been trying to nail down which bumper to get. Thought I had ruled this one out but it looks really good on your truck. I have a black 99 myself. Which ARB part number did you go with? The 3913140 which is for our model years or the 3913160 for the newer model years. I know I have heard to get the newer year part number for the bull bar. Not sure on the Sahara bar. Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks.
[/QUOTE

I have the 3913140. This one doesn't require frame cutting. Two part installation that I was able to do by myself without lifting help. I chose this bumper because I wanted low profile w/no frills. First choice was TJM13 but back order issues for winch plate caused a change of plans. I would rather have the Slee Blueberry or Dissent but those were not in my budget. Drawback of Sahara is no jack points or recovery points on bumper. Due to the two part installation, the actual bumper is likely to shift if loaded. The OEM recovery points remain in their original location under the frame.
Click to expand...
 
Thank you for the feedback. Definitely some good points. Appreciate it.
 
neckbone said:
Have a local guy that does some fabrication at his house. Gave him a few pictures that I had seen and this is the result. It's not perfect, but I'm pretty damn happy with the result. We did a bit of horse trading for it, but for the swingout, he's thinking somewhere around $600-700. I just didn't want to drop $2k+ for a full bumper.
Click to expand...

When is the group buy ;)
 
Got the CV axle out to prep for the new hardware and looking at the tear it almost looks like a puncture? IDK, I'm not a forensic CV axle boot investigator. Oh well... Should be back and running tomorrow.

IMG_9101.jpg


IMG_9103.jpg
 
ElHefe said:
Finished repainting the front bumper. Clear coat was completely gone and base coat was toast, very chalky. $15 color match spray can and 2K clear coat. The hood is next.

View attachment 2435455

View attachment 2435457
Click to expand...

I need to do this - what's the brief run down on parts/paint and process? (Assuming its not color matched to the color of the LC.)

Trunk Monkey said:
Apparently if you work @cruiseroutfit you spend part of your paycheck on goofy things that are in front of you all day.

View attachment 2436062
Click to expand...

Ooh, I want. Are you working at CO now Trunk?
 
Eighteen11R said:
That is Bad Ass... Does it have a quick disconnect for the lamp wire too @RFavuzza ? Assuming it would seeing the D-ring double wire hitch safety pin for quick removal in the event you need the spare...?
Click to expand...
Hmmm, I don’t know for sure. There is a link to the install instructions on the web page. I haven’t pulled the trigger on it yet because I’m not sure if I’m going to keep my cheap hitch mount spare carrier or wait till I can hoard enough cash to buy a Dissent bumper.
 
SmoothLC said:
I need to do this - what's the brief run down on parts/paint and process? (Assuming its not color matched to the color of the LC.)
Click to expand...

There are 11 bolts that hold on the front bumper; 8 on the front crash bar and 3 below the grille (on a 2001). Disconnect the fog lights. Remove these and the bumper slides up and off. Remove the fog lights. One bolt and a clip each. Mask off the black insert. Clean the bumper. Used 180/220/320/scuff pad in sequence. Clean the bumper again. Prep work is key.

Used 1D2 paint from Color Tone in San Antonio. It is a 97.5% match with the residual variation probably driven by 20 years in the sun. They mixed 3 cans for $45+tax. You can buy the 2K clear coat on Amazon for ~$20 per can. Follow the instructions carefully.
 
Just replaced the upper radiator hose with new clamps , tstat housing, tstat gasket, fuel pressure regulator (just because I did fuel pump and filter a few weeks ago), Vsv valve for charcoal canister and a few misc small hoses. When it fired it up I got 2 codes and wasn't happy - I unplugged battery, manually moved throttle body and unplugged maf, vsv valve Installed and the wire harness for throttle body. The codes were p2111- throttle actuator control system stuck open and p2103 - throttle actuator control circuit high. The butterfly was closed when I reinspected so not sure what exactly caused it. But it's all good now!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

C
What mods do you regret on your 100 series?
3 4 5
Replies
92
Views
15K
hoser
hoser
huuunnnt
What is the 100 Series stock ride height?
Replies
9
Views
683
Manhattan
Manhattan
G
I have a what does it go to question….
Replies
5
Views
479
oakback
O
H
What services should I get done to baseline LC?
2 3
Replies
46
Views
5K
Bisho
Bisho

Users who are viewing this thread

  • ... and 4 more.
    • Total: 42 (members: 13, guests: 29)

    Share this page

    Back
    Top Bottom