What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (102 Viewers)

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bad news. CVs shot. :frown:
PO mechanic surely ruined them by improper service when replacing rotors. i unscrewed the bearing lock nuts by hand!

thinking about whole new shafts vs outboards only. 295k miles on these possibly. over $900 for 2 complete CVs from dealer. less than half that for outer shafts. any reason besides convenience to get compete shafts? will i be served better by getting a new inter joint and new splines.
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bad news. CVs shot. :frown:
PO mechanic surely ruined them by improper service when replacing rotors. i unscrewed the bearing lock nuts by hand!

thinking about whole new shafts vs outboards only. 295k miles on these possibly. over $900 for 2 complete CVs from dealer. less than half that for outer shafts. any reason besides convenience to get compete shafts? will i be served better by getting a new inter joint and new splines.
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What was the issue before pulling everything apart?
 
What was the issue before pulling everything apart?
i was replacing brakes and rotors and intending to do a bearing service. it also has the infamous driveline clunk. here is a video from a couple days ago before i tore it apart...
 
what did it take to pull that thing?

I followed the instruction sheet that I downloaded from this site. The trick for me was to remove the high-pressure line and to have the engine lifted up so the rack would clear the oil filter housing on the way out.
 
bad news. CVs shot. :frown:
PO mechanic surely ruined them by improper service when replacing rotors. i unscrewed the bearing lock nuts by hand!

thinking about whole new shafts vs outboards only. 295k miles on these possibly. over $900 for 2 complete CVs from dealer. less than half that for outer shafts. any reason besides convenience to get compete shafts? will i be served better by getting a new inter joint and new splines.
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So what's actually bad? Your pics don't show anything too obvious (at least to me...) other than dirty grease and maybe worn drive flange splines? Why do you say the CVs are bad? The axle splines are harder than the drive flange, so they shouldn't wear out as quickly, and the seal surface looks OK to me. The spindle nuts coming off by hand is fairly common and not necessarily an indicator of destruction, especially with lots of miles on a set of bearings. How long since your last bearing service?

Your video also makes it look (to me) like you've got worn drive flange splines. And maybe it's time to replace the diff mount bushings since they look a bit mushy.
 
Covercraft. Excellent fitment! But a bit pricey, $80ish

Best dang windowscreen available for sure. I love mine here in the Central Texas summers. Keeps the rig bearable when having to park in direct sunlight. Well worth the coin IMO.
 
Just got it in the mail, waiting for a nice day. Is this as much of a one banana job as it appears?
Mine was sitting on the shelf for months. Just yesterday as I was waiting by the truck for the missus to come out, I installed it - took about 5 minutes! And that includes adding the Cruiser Garage sticker to the rear window.
 
🚨🚨🚨 CHEAP WINCH ALERT! 🚨🚨🚨

I got my new Apex 12000 installed over the weekend in my LX470.

Winch talk here: New Badland Apex 12,000 lb. Winch

I needed to remove the control box and mod it to fit my Dissent front bumper but other than that it bolted in just fine you can see how I did that in the video below. All in all I think it's great value for a 12k winch alone, then add in synthetic rope, nice hook, fairlead, wireless control, waterproof, etc it is really good. With the COVID situation HF might be taking a big hit on their manufacturing and supply chain so we might see products like this disappear or go up significantly in price so that's why I decided to go for it now.



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So what's actually bad? Your pics don't show anything too obvious (at least to me...) other than dirty grease and maybe worn drive flange splines? Why do you say the CVs are bad? The axle splines are harder than the drive flange, so they shouldn't wear out as quickly, and the seal surface looks OK to me. The spindle nuts coming off by hand is fairly common and not necessarily an indicator of destruction, especially with lots of miles on a set of bearings. How long since your last bearing service?

Your video also makes it look (to me) like you've got worn drive flange splines. And maybe it's time to replace the diff mount bushings since they look a bit mushy.

thanks for taking a look. i do have new diff bushings on the way. i have new drive flanges to put on but the axle splines are too far gone. the tops of the splines where they engage the drive flange are sharp. they should look like the end of the shaft after the snap ring with flats on top. here its a picture of a new axle i found posted by 2001LC
FDS axle new.JPG
and mine again for comparison
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sorry for the dirty picture. it wasn't worth cleaning when i saw how bad it was.

the axle nuts were driven on by a chisel and all the lock washer tabs were bent the same way. the nuts were literally free spinning in the hub. I realize now that i had detected the slightest shimmy at high speed in the steering wheel. i wonder if this is the cause.
BTW ordered new compete axles. will retain these and later replace outer shafts to have as spares.
 
thanks for taking a look. i do have new diff bushings on the way. i have new drive flanges to put on but the axle splines are too far gone. the tops of the splines where they engage the drive flange are sharp. they should look like the end of the shaft after the snap ring with flats on top. here its a picture of a new axle i found posted by 2001LC
View attachment 2262514and mine again for comparisonView attachment 2262515
sorry for the dirty picture. it wasn't worth cleaning when i saw how bad it was.

the axle nuts were driven on by a chisel and all the lock washer tabs were bent the same way. the nuts were literally free spinning in the hub. I realize now that i had detected the slightest shimmy at high speed in the steering wheel. i wonder if this is the cause.
BTW ordered new compete axles. will retain these and later replace outer shafts to have as spares.
part time kit? now would be the time!
 
part time kit? now would be the time!
ha! I'm reading that thread right now!
but honestly sooooooo broke now. i think id be down for the hubs only when they go on sale by themselves. it would be cool to maintain ATRAC since I'm moving to CO.
 
thanks for taking a look. i do have new diff bushings on the way. i have new drive flanges to put on but the axle splines are too far gone. the tops of the splines where they engage the drive flange are sharp. they should look like the end of the shaft after the snap ring with flats on top. here its a picture of a new axle i found posted by 2001LC
View attachment 2262514and mine again for comparisonView attachment 2262515
sorry for the dirty picture. it wasn't worth cleaning when i saw how bad it was.

the axle nuts were driven on by a chisel and all the lock washer tabs were bent the same way. the nuts were literally free spinning in the hub. I realize now that i had detected the slightest shimmy at high speed in the steering wheel. i wonder if this is the cause.
BTW ordered new compete axles. will retain these and later replace outer shafts to have as spares.
Definitely smooth and worn across those top edges. Mine had 247k miles and still had the tiny ridges on them, but had worn out the actual joints. I went all new, too.
 
🚨🚨🚨 CHEAP WINCH ALERT! 🚨🚨🚨

I got my new Apex 12000 installed over the weekend in my LX470.

Winch talk here: New Badland Apex 12,000 lb. Winch

I needed to remove the control box and mod it to fit my Dissent front bumper but other than that it bolted in just fine you can see how I did that in the video below. All in all I think it's great value for a 12k winch alone, then add in synthetic rope, nice hook, fairlead, wireless control, waterproof, etc it is really good. With the COVID situation HF might be taking a big hit on their manufacturing and supply chain so we might see products like this disappear or go up significantly in price so that's why I decided to go for it now.





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STRONGLY considering that winch! I have the Ironman Bullbar on my rig. Was thinking of just mounting the winch controller in the "blank" space left by the vacated AHC pump and then just making longer cables.
 
Was thinking of just mounting the winch controller in the "blank" space left by the vacated AHC pump and then just making longer cables.

Yes, much better than blocking airflow to AC condensor and radiator.
 
Yes, much better than blocking airflow to AC condensor and radiator.

That's what I'm thinking. I've got room to mount it on top of the bumper. But, since I already have 2 9"LED lights on there, adding the winch controller would just add that much more blocking air getting into the grill.
 

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