What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (89 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Repainted all the skids after scratching them up this year and last.

IMG_20190703_153309651.jpg


Ready to add more scratches at Coal Mine Cruiser Classic next week!
 
Totally understand the purpose of the CDL and that it has zero impact on trans temps. My 98 auto-locks the CDL in 4Lo and I don't want that. I want to use 4Lo without creating unnecessary binding on the drivetrain in situations where the extra grip isn't necessary. Saw elevated temps on short off-road climbs (4Lo did produce lower temps and that makes sense to me). Also saw temps over 200 while climbing a longer highway hill at 60mph in 3rd with OD off. I tried to hold the pedal to keep the TC locked, but it would continually slip and temps would rise again. Really takes a lot of pedal modulation to keep the TC locked while climbing at highway speeds with OD off. In Texas, that's not that big a deal as our climbs are no more than a mile long, mostly below 2000ft and fairly shallow. That will become something entirely different in CO where climbs can me 10 miles long (or longer), 6000ft and higher and 7%+ grades.

You've stated at least twice now that you are aware that the pin 7 mod will allow you to have low range without the CDL engaged, so I don't understand the confusion. Do the pin 7 and eliminate the binding. Or are you just stating that you do understand it, and have simply not done it yet?

Also, I agree with @savirc that it doesn't sound like you should be having trans temp issues. Sounds like there are deeper issues.
THanks, did these work for you, description says to 19" high, ours is 21" top of frame to bottom of moulding.

I'm assuming you meant to quote a different message?
 
You've stated at least twice now that you are aware that the pin 7 mod will allow you to have low range without the CDL engaged, so I don't understand the confusion. Do the pin 7 and eliminate the binding. Or are you just stating that you do understand it, and have simply not done it yet?

Also, I agree with @savirc that it doesn't sound like you should be having trans temp issues. Sounds like there are deeper issues.


I'm assuming you meant to quote a different message?
You sent a link about window nets
 
You sent a link about window nets
Ha ha ha... Yes I did. Sorry about that. I run them on my 80 and they fit great. They do not come down as far as the custom ones that @Ayune posted, but they do come down past the bottom of the window. I got the recommendation from a friend @Odyseuss who uses them on his 100 with a very similar (to mine on the 80) fit. I'd recommend them for sure, especially for the money.
 
Installed the goosegear rear plate system and 60% rear seat delete. Pretty happy with the results. Fridge slide and drawer go in next.
IMG_20190703_153209.jpg
IMG_20190703_153159.jpg
IMG_20190703_153233.jpg
 
Installed some slightly less used rear springs. Originals 269k miles, found a set on eBay with approx 100k a while back. Didn't notice anything wrong with the originals but since I was installing 30mm coil spacers after AHC lift might as well freshen them up.

Got these spacers on eBay as well from AUS. Solid item for a decent price.
 
Finally repaired my A.C. An avalanche of bad juju last year on a Colorado/Utah/Nevada trip which would take forever to write out meant we had no AC while driving through the desert in July.Replaced condenser and a couple of hard lines that stripped out when removing. Just in time for our trip to Kentucky in afew weeks..
 
Finally repaired my A.C. An avalanche of bad juju last year on a Colorado/Utah/Nevada trip which would take forever to write out meant we had no AC while driving through the desert in July.Replaced condenser and a couple of hard lines that stripped out when removing. Just in time for our trip to Kentucky in afew weeks..

What was the cause of the failure?
 
What was the cause of the failure?

Initial failure was an o-ring on the lower hardline to the condenser. Purchased one at a Toyota dealer put it on but it continued to leak. While tightening the bolt further to try and get it to seal, the bolt snapped. Upon closer inspection of the parts bag they had given me the wrong o-ring.Despite me calling ahead,giving them the part number and them verifying they had it.The counter guy just eyeballed it and gave me an o-ring for a door lock according to the package. Frustrated and without a way to extract a sheared bolt I took it into an AC shop in Vegas. Who promptly cracked the mounting boss on the hardline while removing the bolt. Called around and was told a week minimum to get a new hardline. The shop said they could patch it temporarily and like a dumbass I ok'd it without verifying what they meant. I thought they were going to tig weld it. Nope. They put a ball of epoxy the size of a baseball over the hardline mount and onto my up to this point perfectly fine and functional condenser....and it still leaked. So, I continued my trip without AC and a 30 cent o-ring became a several hundred dollar fix.
 
You've stated at least twice now that you are aware that the pin 7 mod will allow you to have low range without the CDL engaged, so I don't understand the confusion. Do the pin 7 and eliminate the binding. Or are you just stating that you do understand it, and have simply not done it yet?

Also, I agree with @savirc that it doesn't sound like you should be having trans temp issues. Sounds like there are deeper issues.

Sorry for the confusion. I am doing the Pin7 mod this weekend. That mod should alleviate any off-road concerns since I'll be relieving a lot of the stress on the transmission by running the lower gears. Going to do that mod while I have the glove box off to replace the cabin filters pre HIH :)

The transmission was serviced a couple months ago and they said everything looked great. I checked the fluid again today and it's a nice red color. I can feel fluid moving through the lines and the transmission cooler fins all appear clean with no bent fins. The transmission fluid has less than 8k on it at this point.

On level highway, with OD on, my temps are low (140-150ish) at 70mph. With OD off and cruising in 3rd at 70mph, temps are 160ish. On hills is where the problem starts to occur and temps rise pretty quick. They also lower very rapidly. If I turn off OD on a descent, the temps steadily decrease back below 170. Here in TX it's not a problem at all, but CO will be a different story I fear. When I don't tow, I rarely see anything above 170 on the trans temps.

Water temps stay between 188-190 typically, but climb to 200 when under serious load. Again, as with the transmission temperatures, they lower back to normal levels rapidly. I do have both a new fan clutch and fan bracket as I installed them when I did the recent TB/WP job.

Perhaps, like many things, I'm overthinking this and stressing about something that is likely completely normal.
 
Last edited:
2020587


Finally got my OPOR sliders on from Metaltech!
 
Initial failure was an o-ring on the lower hardline to the condenser. Purchased one at a Toyota dealer put it on but it continued to leak. While tightening the bolt further to try and get it to seal, the bolt snapped. Upon closer inspection of the parts bag they had given me the wrong o-ring.Despite me calling ahead,giving them the part number and them verifying they had it.The counter guy just eyeballed it and gave me an o-ring for a door lock according to the package. Frustrated and without a way to extract a sheared bolt I took it into an AC shop in Vegas. Who promptly cracked the mounting boss on the hardline while removing the bolt. Called around and was told a week minimum to get a new hardline. The shop said they could patch it temporarily and like a dumbass I ok'd it without verifying what they meant. I thought they were going to tig weld it. Nope. They put a ball of epoxy the size of a baseball over the hardline mount and onto my up to this point perfectly fine and functional condenser....and it still leaked. So, I continued my trip without AC and a 30 cent o-ring became a several hundred dollar fix.


Thanks for the details!
 
I finally got around to fixing a little thing that's been bugging me for a few years. The carpet hook grommet had pulled out and the mat kept sliding around.

I used this: Toyota carpet repair grommet and luckily I was able to find the hook stashed at the back of my desk drawer.

It's a pricey little piece of plastic but it's fixed. It only took about 5 minutes.

One of these days I'll get a new set of oem mats. I've worn through the carpet on the driver's side.

Chris


20190704_105637.jpg


20190704_110041.jpg
 
Installed an attic

AAFC68BD-B636-4319-8516-58E4E46FA2E9.jpeg


7D08BD6B-ABC7-431E-8DF9-5F1CFB43D051.jpeg


FBC2EE89-64F1-44C1-813A-FA39A4867EB1.jpeg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom