What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (72 Viewers)

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Stereo system complete and lift installed. Bumpers and roof rack are up next, but may take a couple weeks.

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Looks really nice.

Any details on the build?
Lift brand, height, components.
Tire size, wheel brand/model/size/offset.
Ride quality, issues you've encountered, opinions/impressions. ???

Future bumper brands, etc

If you have time - We all love the details.
 
Christ man how do you afford a 2 year vacation? lol, so jealous. Please document the trip if you got other pics, make a thread for that so we can all see, appreciate the response. Have fun on the rest of the trip, so what now? You've reached the ends of the earth, turn back around and go home? Or take a ferry to Antarctica?

Haha...I need to update my spreadsheet but at last check it is less expensive to travel the Americas in a Land Cruiser than it is to live in downtown Chicago. I'm probably averaging 2K per month if that.

Yeah, I headed north up the Atlantic coast to Buenos Aires. Going to Uruguay next week, looking to ship the Land Cruiser to Miami from Montevideo. Still working on getting an agent and somebody to share a 40' HQ container but hopefully by the end of the month. Then looking to spend some time traveling around the US, seeing family and friends.

I've got a blog but only covers North and Central America so far, need to catch up with South America.

Chris Deegan
 
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Converted my AHC to conventional with OME 860s, Fox 2.0 and sway a way T bars. Messy job first corner was messy, the rest went smooth. Kudos to the guys that fight their way from the bottom to remove their rear shock. What a Pain. Said screw and made some nice holes. Now to remove as much of the AHC as possible
 
If you live in the rust bowl there’s no way to get it out from underneath. I broke my strut bolt trying to get it out. I don’t see the big deal about drilling into the tub, there’s already a bunch of holes in it for access so it’s not like you’re compromising any structural integrity of the vehicle. Bore a hole, use an impact gun, boom, done, no headaches no cursing.
 
If you live in the rust bowl there’s no way to get it out from underneath. I broke my strut bolt trying to get it out. I don’t see the big deal about drilling into the tub, there’s already a bunch of holes in it for access so it’s not like you’re compromising any structural integrity of the vehicle. Bore a hole, use an impact gun, boom, done, no headaches no cursing.
no joke.... I put a 4in hole in it... made it so much easier and 10x faster
 
If you live in the rust bowl there’s no way to get it out from underneath. I broke my strut bolt trying to get it out. I don’t see the big deal about drilling into the tub, there’s already a bunch of holes in it for access so it’s not like you’re compromising any structural integrity of the vehicle. Bore a hole, use an impact gun, boom, done, no headaches no cursing.


I don't have any experience with rust, but just for some added perspective I think the vehicle is rust-free if is definitely worth a try to remove the rear shocks from the bottom. From everything I had heard on the forum, I thought I would definitely need to drill holes but I was able to remove my rear shocks from the bottom relatively easily using a small ratcheting wrench. No drama or heroics necessary. Removing my drawers to drill holes would have taken 3x as long. Although I do agree, drilling a hole in the floor for access would not give me any heartburn.
 
I don't have any experience with rust, but just for some added perspective I think the vehicle is rust-free if is definitely worth a try to remove the rear shocks from the bottom. From everything I had heard on the forum, I thought I would definitely need to drill holes but I was able to remove my rear shocks from the bottom relatively easily using a small ratcheting wrench. No drama or heroics necessary. Removing my drawers to drill holes would have taken 3x as long. Although I do agree, drilling a hole in the floor for access would not give me any heartburn.


You californians have no idea what we go through lol. It's bad here, i had to use heat to free up my torsion bar adjusting bolt. You have an LC without AHC so removing the strut is easier than an LX with the 2 retaining 12mm bolts holding the fluid stuff in. Very hard to reach.
 
You californians have no idea what we go through lol. It's bad here, i had to use heat to free up my torsion bar adjusting bolt. You have an LC without AHC so removing the strut is easier than an LX with the 2 retaining 12mm bolts holding the fluid stuff in. Very hard to reach.
On top of those damn 12mm bolts are tubes galore too on the driver side bad design imho
 
Took over IH8mud’s top spot in cheapest, most insightful and most useful mods. :clap: Took off my unneeded trailer brake controller and now use bracket as a perfect iPhone 6s Plus holder.


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Got the Android radio installed.

I used some epoxy to mount the radio brackets. I screwed the radio in from the back.

Screen is tilted lightly upwards and almost flush with panel.

Also installed rear camera, dashcam, DAB+, GPS antenna and external microphone.

There is a small gap on the left & right, but other than that it's perfect. (Previous owner enlarged the gap).

More pics will follow, but for now:
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I will also install a front camera, just because I have one input left. (Or is there a better place?)

The front camera will be next to the fairlead. So I only have to buy a winch, mount it behind the stock bumper, install the fairlead and mount a camera next to the fairlead.
 
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Picked up a set of Method NVs in 18x9 ET +25 from a fellow mudder today. This offset should bring the tire out just a tad more than my current oem wheels with 30mm spacers.

We both need a truck wash badddd, but it's been in the single digits here lately so all the water pipes froze, and automatic carwashes would be like driving your truck through a cactus field.

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Scuffed up the wheel and cleaned it with degreaser, like my makeshift paint booth? Hard to paint when it's 20 degrees in the garage, the little heater helped to warm up the metal before rattling it with some matte black wheel paint.

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Once it's dried it'll be flat black, to match the outer part, lucky for me the inside of the wheel has already been powder coated black, didn't have to paint that.

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Picked up a set of Method NVs in 18x9 ET +25 from a fellow mudder today. This offset should bring the tire out just a tad more than my current oem wheels with 30mm spacers.

We both need a truck wash badddd, but it's been in the single digits here lately so all the water pipes froze, and automatic carwashes would be like driving your truck through a cactus field.

24697349637_281ed93f03_h.jpg


38856286824_0b90b6efe0_h.jpg


Scuffed up the wheel and cleaned it with degreaser, like my makeshift paint booth? Hard to paint when it's 20 degrees in the garage, the little heater helped to warm up the metal before rattling it with some matte black wheel paint.

38856287004_15ad872b5e_h.jpg


39564853271_790335037e_h.jpg


Once it's dried it'll be flat black, to match the outer part, lucky for me the inside of the wheel has already been powder coated black, didn't have to paint that.

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Interested in selling your stock 18s?
 
I don't have any experience with rust, but just for some added perspective I think the vehicle is rust-free if is definitely worth a try to remove the rear shocks from the bottom. From everything I had heard on the forum, I thought I would definitely need to drill holes but I was able to remove my rear shocks from the bottom relatively easily using a small ratcheting wrench. No drama or heroics necessary. Removing my drawers to drill holes would have taken 3x as long. Although I do agree, drilling a hole in the floor for access would not give me any heartburn.

I take my shocks out from underneath. I just sit under there criss cross apple sauce style (no spare) and turn a wrench. No choice since I have drawers in the back also.
 
Interested in selling your stock 18s?


Yeah but you're too far, i have the OEM tundra ones though, in 18s. Set of 4, mint/like new shape with no scratches. $250 is what i'm looking to get for them. I can throw in my 30mm spacers for an extra $50, they're no brand, but they work well and doesn't vibrate or anything.

im]
 
Yeah but you're too far, i have the OEM tundra ones though, in 18s. Set of 4, mint/like new shape with no scratches. $250 is what i'm looking to get for them. I can throw in my 30mm spacers for an extra $50, they're no brand, but they work well and doesn't vibrate or anything.

im]
No problem, I thought yours was the black LX in the pic...my bad
 
Painted the rear bumper and prepped it for baby mode. Wife and I are currently at the hospital getting ready for delivery!

Also, replacement upper hatch should arrive this week sometime.

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