What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (54 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Installed the Air pump By-pass mod.

I did not have a pump failure. I did because this our travel vehicle and I did not want to ever have to talk my wife through how to by-pass a air pump CEL that puts it into limp mode (~30mph max), ever.

I went with plug and play by-pass because I saw no need to do the other available by-pass that requires wiring. After reading about how the by-pass works the only is if you turn your vehicle on (not acc) for over 15 sec the bypass be activated. O'course I turned the key to the on position for 30 and started the LX and nothing happened. :meh:

The install is EZ - I removed the existing cable and plug the by-pass in and routed using the existing factory clamps to look OEM. After I plugged the by-pass into the factory connector I hide the connection under the air box. It will take a real LX expert to notice it.

I found the install of the block off plates EZ also. Use a 10mm wrench and 10 minutes under the LX it was all done. No pics of the block off plates install but once under the vehicle it clear where they go.

IMG_8722[1].JPG
IMG_8725[1].JPG
IMG_8729[1].JPG
 
Gojira doing what it was built to do:

040217_water.jpg
 
LandCruiserPhil said:
Installed the Air pump By-pass mod.

I did not have a pump failure. I did because this our travel vehicle and I did not want to ever have to talk my wife through how to by-pass a air pump CEL that puts it into limp mode (~30mph max), ever.

I went with plug and play by-pass because I saw no need to do the other available by-pass that requires wiring. After reading about how the by-pass works the only is if you turn your vehicle on (not acc) for over 15 sec the bypass be activated. O'course I turned the key to the on position for 30 and started the LX and nothing happened. :meh:

The install is EZ - I removed the existing cable and plug the by-pass in and routed using the existing factory clamps to look OEM. After I plugged the by-pass into the factory connector I hide the connection under the air box. It will take a real LX expert to notice it.

I found the install of the block off plates EZ also. Use a 10mm wrench and 10 minutes under the LX it was all done. No pics of the block off plates install but once under the vehicle it clear where they go.

View attachment 1433547 View attachment 1433548 View attachment 1433549
Click to expand...

LCP, did you use the eBay one from TexasCrane's thread? (linked in case anyone hasn't seen it) I had a limp-mode happen twice last summer, no codes were thrown and hasn't happened since – very strange. I do have the high-pitched whine on start ups though. I'm thinking this is a must-do item for me soon. Did you notice any symptoms, or was this purely preventative?
 
LXColorado said:
LCP, did you use the eBay one from TexasCrane's thread? (linked in case anyone hasn't seen it) I had a limp-mode happen twice last summer, no codes were thrown and hasn't happened since – very strange. I do have the high-pitched whine on start ups though. I'm thinking this is a must-do item for me soon. Did you notice any symptoms, or was this purely preventative?
Click to expand...

I dont know if you have a pump failure if or what codes would be set.

IH8MUD says:rolleyes: when you hear high pitch sound like an airplane taking off at start up its the first clue.

Sounds the by-pass my be for you.
 
Daisy 53 said:
Pulled and cleaned up my power steering reservoir. Not perfect but at least I can see the fluid now!
Cleaned the seat belts in the front row, man they were nasty!

Projects

Projects


Belts retract like new now!

Daisy
Click to expand...

Is that a secret formula in the bucket?
 
It took me to Death and Panamint Valleys (actually today it brought me home). Mostly a hiking trip, though
 
It has been a busy week.
First a full detail... then off with those pesky running boards!
IMG_1675_zpsi4al5gid.jpg


Then a new Speski Cargo Barrier
IMG_1677_zps6ijly4ez.jpg


Finished the install of an in-dash USB for the ApplePlay receiver that I installed a couple of months ago.

And topped off the week with the Gamiviti rack that has been sitting in my garage for months!
IMG_1681_zpsqvlvl4tp.jpg


Nice warm days in the valley mean lots of work to get done! Next is the IronMan suspension, Tundra rims (at powder coating) and new tires!

Tom
 
Changed the oil last week, got another oil report from Blackstone Labs:

032417_2003_LC_oil_report.png
 
That's pretty slick man, for real!


Let's see I attacked replacing all six light bulbs for my gauges two weeks ago and replacing all the light bulbs behind the HVAC and such. All went well until I had an issue with the bulb near the 2-3 on the tach, turns out I may have rushed and chewed up the circuit board up there.

Honestly I was really upset I made such an error as I'm usually pretty slow and research way to much before doing things but having been into guages in the past I was cool once I realized Mr T has a part number for just the upper section of the circuit board that holds those six bulbs.

So after a phone call to Mc George I found out there were only three, UM two left in the US... lol...

So I now have a wonderfully fully lit console and gauge cluster.

IMG_1006.PNG


IMG_1007.JPG
 
Last edited:
I finally got the powerstop pads and rotors finished up. I got a lot of satisfaction from doing it all myself. The FSM makes a huge difference in the confidence level that your doing it the right way.

Why did it take so long you ask.......well it turns out there is actually no 54mm axle nut in the factory tool kit. :doh: I had to order a 54mm socket and wait for it to get here today.

The last time I did a brake job was drums on a 1972 Dodge Dart in college.

The early report is the powerstop brakes are way better than what ever the PO had on there. The modulation is better and I was actually able to get right to the edge of locking them up.
 
Got bars welded to the dissent rear wings. I was very nervous about this as the bumper is already perfect... but I'm happy with the results. It mimics @benc initial prototype, which I absolutely love. NOW TO POWDERCOAT!!

20170403_192819.jpg


20170403_192816.jpg
 
crimsonaudio said:
Changed the oil last week, got another oil report from Blackstone Labs:

032417_2003_LC_oil_report.png
Click to expand...

I just did an oil change after 11,500 miles on Mobil 1 5w30 with a Napa Gold filter. I could have run this out to 12-13k based on my Blackstone report, but was getting ready to go on a 3500 mile trip. The new oil is same EP as yours with a Purolator "Boss" filter. I was going to perform a UOA at about 10k miles (conservative), but based on your findings I am encouraged to do it at 12k+. Next OCI I am going to run this:

Mobil 1 Annual Protection

Supposedly this is being phased in to replace the EP. However since it is so new it was only available at wally world and I have not stepped foot in that place in 7 years. One interesting observation on the switch between the two Mobil 1 products, the oil pressure is slightly different. The oil pressure gauge does not have a ton of hash marks, but at idle and at cruising speeds my pressure is running just a touch higher.
 
Last edited:
I considered the new M1AP oil, but it was $45/5q vs $25/5q for the M1EP, which doesn't make sense when it's only rated for an extra 5k miles, so I'm sticking with the M1EP as long as possible.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

C
What mods do you regret on your 100 series?
3 4 5
Replies
97
Views
16K
razzman1
R
huuunnnt
What is the 100 Series stock ride height?
Replies
9
Views
741
Manhattan
Manhattan
G
I have a what does it go to question….
Replies
5
Views
487
oakback
O
H
What services should I get done to baseline LC?
2 3
Replies
46
Views
5K
Bisho
Bisho

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 55 (members: 2, guests: 53)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom