What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (55 Viewers)
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Brake fluid flush this past Sunday.
Today I visited my mom and had my new tires mounted (Falken AT3W LT275/65/18). She recently had her driveway graded so all the interesting bits were gone (the uphill part took the front bumper of an LS430 off years ago) plus drove around her property much to her chagrin; all the ground was soft due to the rain and melting snow we had and parts of it turned to a muddy soup which I tried to avoid as part of this field is her front lawn... I miss being home sometimes!
Today I visited my mom and had my new tires mounted (Falken AT3W LT275/65/18). She recently had her driveway graded so all the interesting bits were gone (the uphill part took the front bumper of an LS430 off years ago) plus drove around her property much to her chagrin; all the ground was soft due to the rain and melting snow we had and parts of it turned to a muddy soup which I tried to avoid as part of this field is her front lawn... I miss being home sometimes!
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
200k mechanical refresh is DONE. New shocks, new upper and lower ball joints, new tie rod ends, new sway bar bushings front and rear, swapped in refurbished OEM CVs, timing belt, water pump, t-stat, upper/lower rad hoses, heater t's, new coolant. All that for $2k. I've had the truck for 100k miles, now it'll go another 100k easily, well worth the cost.
Once it warms up it'll get a cosmetic refresh and spa day. Clean up the seat belts, go to town on the leather, remove the final bits of wood trim, deep clean carpet.
Once it warms up it'll get a cosmetic refresh and spa day. Clean up the seat belts, go to town on the leather, remove the final bits of wood trim, deep clean carpet.
I swapped out my two smaller amps and extra wiring/ RCA's and installed a single JL RD900/5, it's absolutely amazing.
I removed the NAV ECU and the factory amp to make room. i left the back up camera computer underneath it all in the stock position. If anyone wants either the JL 400/4 or the fosgate 500/1 from the pic, I will sell for 66% of list, shipping included, receipt, and I can throw in some ofc 4 gauge wire with a crimped lug on one end if you want. Both are about two months old.
View attachment 1413170
I removed the NAV ECU and the factory amp to make room. i left the back up camera computer underneath it all in the stock position. If anyone wants either the JL 400/4 or the fosgate 500/1 from the pic, I will sell for 66% of list, shipping included, receipt, and I can throw in some ofc 4 gauge wire with a crimped lug on one end if you want. Both are about two months old.
View attachment 1413170
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I completed my full lighting upgrade on my 01 Lx470. Led's for the whole interior. Top of the line Led projector bulbs for the brake, tail, reverse and signal lights. Led side marker lights, license plates and replaced the rear bumper reflectors with LED's. To finish it off. I went with HID's with clear TRX lenses for the low beams. HID fog lights and LED DRL,High beams!
Complete newbie to Land Cruisers (bought a 98' a few months ago) and DIY but I was able to knock out the following in the last three days:
-Timing belt - Yes a complete newbie did the timing belt job (I did have help in a few areas like making sure the timing was right). I will post a deeper description of my experience in hopes to give more people the courage to do this themselves.
-Water pump
-Thermostat
-Serpentine belt
-Wheel bearing replacement, both sides
-Front and rear Brakes (Pads and rotors)
-Lubricated the driveline (Which did get rid of a "thunk" I had)
I went from googling "How to disconnect a battery" to completing all of that....and I'd do it all again tomorrow. Like I said I want to post more details in hopes that more people will get under their truck themselves.
-Timing belt - Yes a complete newbie did the timing belt job (I did have help in a few areas like making sure the timing was right). I will post a deeper description of my experience in hopes to give more people the courage to do this themselves.
-Water pump
-Thermostat
-Serpentine belt
-Wheel bearing replacement, both sides
-Front and rear Brakes (Pads and rotors)
-Lubricated the driveline (Which did get rid of a "thunk" I had)
I went from googling "How to disconnect a battery" to completing all of that....and I'd do it all again tomorrow. Like I said I want to post more details in hopes that more people will get under their truck themselves.
Nice looking rig. What kinda meats are those?View attachment 1413220 View attachment 1413221 View attachment 1413222 View attachment 1413223
finally its getting there
305-70-16
Nice! I replaced the HU and added a 12 w/ single channel amp. Still getting hiss and was thinking of using a 5 channel and running all new wires to speakers. Do you think that will remove the hissing? I tried a ground loop isolator but no help.
I think it's the metra harnes and using the RCA's to amp will yield better sound.
Yes, I wanted to get to using one amp only. Mostly I was experimenting with all the cheaper stuff to see what I needed. Right now I think the best amp available for landcruisers is the JL HD 900/5 the problem is it's a $1000. BUT it has the perfect dimensions for under the pass seat, even if you kept factory nav and amp. It will be cheap eventually.
user, supra tnut, or something like that said it best. I think you know this thread. You posted in there.
Speaker grounding loop-whine with engine
That's the best explanation of toyota's BS right there.
For less than a thousand dollars you can remove, replace, all of it. Even in my 2006. (almost). Trying to retain anything in the whole system is a waste of time- except the wires going to the doors, Which I use, AFTER the amp. In the case of the left front---NAV ECU for that one channel. The other three channel's speaker wires come from the output of the amp.
To maybe answer your question, yes. You don't need to run new speaker wires though. Get your yellow and red wires ONLY from the stock harness behind the deck. You can use a metra adapter for that. Use you own ground though, that's important. There are 4 good ground points under the seat. Two in the pic are good. All my stuff is grounded there. Deck, brake bypass, steering wheel control box.
Low level rca to new amp. This crud about manufacturers moving to RCA high level speaker wire adapters to save costs on amp production is only confusing people. There's more confussion about whether the stock HU output wires are low or high leve. Different argument for a different time.
I'm rambling now sorry
If you send me more info I could elaborate more. I don't need to write a book here. But I'll help if anyone wants.
user, supra tnut, or something like that said it best. I think you know this thread. You posted in there.
Speaker grounding loop-whine with engine
That's the best explanation of toyota's BS right there.
For less than a thousand dollars you can remove, replace, all of it. Even in my 2006. (almost). Trying to retain anything in the whole system is a waste of time- except the wires going to the doors, Which I use, AFTER the amp. In the case of the left front---NAV ECU for that one channel. The other three channel's speaker wires come from the output of the amp.
To maybe answer your question, yes. You don't need to run new speaker wires though. Get your yellow and red wires ONLY from the stock harness behind the deck. You can use a metra adapter for that. Use you own ground though, that's important. There are 4 good ground points under the seat. Two in the pic are good. All my stuff is grounded there. Deck, brake bypass, steering wheel control box.
Low level rca to new amp. This crud about manufacturers moving to RCA high level speaker wire adapters to save costs on amp production is only confusing people. There's more confussion about whether the stock HU output wires are low or high leve. Different argument for a different time.
I'm rambling now sorry
If you send me more info I could elaborate more. I don't need to write a book here. But I'll help if anyone wants.
I used black with the gloss finish. Worked out great.
Is that a 2003+ 100?
I'm in the process of amplifying my speakers after doing a subwoofer install and speaker swap. My plan was to add an audiocontrol dq-61 after the factory amp and run RCA's to amps in the back. How can i tap into the system and get rid of the boxes under the seat?! that'll enable me to use a better amp and not have to fabricate mounts in the back, retaining the stock look.
I have the electrical book, and it seems all the processing happens in the amp as i only found right/left outputs going into it.
Or am i completely wrong and you just use an aftermarket head unit?
I would absolutely not hook up a nice big fancy LOC. If It was free you could try it. It depends on what your final goal is.
All the processing does happen in the amp. Intercepting the speaker wires between the stock deck and the amp input leaves you dealing with toyotas ground nonsense.
A small amp fits behind the stock NAV unit fine, with that back cover protecting it. It just doesn't sit on the mounting studs. But it does protect it from spastic 8 year olds. If you don't care about the NAV, take it out and set an amp in it's place. Same outcome. Just no connected nav message. IF you do that you absolutely need and should use low level inputs to the new amp. IF you use high level inputs off the stock DECK to a modern amp that takes high level inputs you still have toyotas BS ground thing going on. That's where the noise comes from. Then you're back to square one. (new deck needed) So..
If you wanted to go audio control LOC's I would set it up right after the stock deck wires close by somewhere, like passenger foot well. I'd go with a smaller cheaper one. 4 channel only. Then take a five or four channel amp, bridge a four and use two for the sub. Or get a small 5 to fit the space behind the nav and wire it normal, channel for channel. There are some out there that sum the 3 and 4 channels to create a sub out. LIke how you would take a stock deck with two speaker out wires and turn it into a 5 channel system, or 3 for that matter.
You have to know what you want to accomplish, where you're going to place it and wiring set up.
I wouldn't put anything that cost money behind this stock amp, look at it.
All the processing does happen in the amp. Intercepting the speaker wires between the stock deck and the amp input leaves you dealing with toyotas ground nonsense.
A small amp fits behind the stock NAV unit fine, with that back cover protecting it. It just doesn't sit on the mounting studs. But it does protect it from spastic 8 year olds. If you don't care about the NAV, take it out and set an amp in it's place. Same outcome. Just no connected nav message. IF you do that you absolutely need and should use low level inputs to the new amp. IF you use high level inputs off the stock DECK to a modern amp that takes high level inputs you still have toyotas BS ground thing going on. That's where the noise comes from. Then you're back to square one. (new deck needed) So..
If you wanted to go audio control LOC's I would set it up right after the stock deck wires close by somewhere, like passenger foot well. I'd go with a smaller cheaper one. 4 channel only. Then take a five or four channel amp, bridge a four and use two for the sub. Or get a small 5 to fit the space behind the nav and wire it normal, channel for channel. There are some out there that sum the 3 and 4 channels to create a sub out. LIke how you would take a stock deck with two speaker out wires and turn it into a 5 channel system, or 3 for that matter.
You have to know what you want to accomplish, where you're going to place it and wiring set up.
I wouldn't put anything that cost money behind this stock amp, look at it.
The system i have now consists of factory jbl system, going to infinity speakers.
In the back i removed the DVC factory woofer and plugged in an audiocontrol LC2i to a jl MX500/1 in the factory sub enclosure and a jl w6 in a box.
My source is a USA spec bt45 for BT audio.
i love the Eq and the way it sounds, i just want it to get louder and stay clean.
My plan was to line drive the signal after the factory amp and send it to a jl MX500/4 that will go in the old factory subwoofer location.
The only reason i'm going with a dq-61 is that i'm getting it from my dealer for about $200. a little more than a basic lc7i.
Now if i start getting noise by doing this, then this project will get scrapped. The only reason i'm pushing ahead is because my subwoofer is CLEAN. no electrical noise whatsoever.
i don't mind the stock equipment and i like it's look. so if i can do it without adding an aftermarket HU, then i need to go back to the drawing board.
In the back i removed the DVC factory woofer and plugged in an audiocontrol LC2i to a jl MX500/1 in the factory sub enclosure and a jl w6 in a box.
My source is a USA spec bt45 for BT audio.
i love the Eq and the way it sounds, i just want it to get louder and stay clean.
My plan was to line drive the signal after the factory amp and send it to a jl MX500/4 that will go in the old factory subwoofer location.
The only reason i'm going with a dq-61 is that i'm getting it from my dealer for about $200. a little more than a basic lc7i.
Now if i start getting noise by doing this, then this project will get scrapped. The only reason i'm pushing ahead is because my subwoofer is CLEAN. no electrical noise whatsoever.
i don't mind the stock equipment and i like it's look. so if i can do it without adding an aftermarket HU, then i need to go back to the drawing board.
