love this look, does it rub while you wheeling?
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (82 Viewers)
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Finally got everything I've spent the last 4months researching and acquiring installed! Thanks Georg @ Valley Hybrids! Double posted in mud photo thread, sorry!
^^looks great!
@tchart - that is a helluva transformation. Looks great! The truck looks dead-level... could be the angle of the pic. If your steering feels very light and twitchy, or if the front suspension feels overly stiff, dial some rake back in. When I lifted my 100, it sat close to dead-level and drove/rode horribly. Dropping the front 1/2-3/4" made a tremendous (thanks Trump) difference.
Ditto.
It is dead level, and you're absolutely right, steering is light. Georg @ valley hybrid told me to give it a week, let it settle then dial it back and take it in for an alignment. I don't commute on a freeway so I'm ok waiting a few days. Probably wouldn't wait if I did.
I doubt you're going to see much (any) settling. No harm in putting a few miles/days on it though.
The ride was surprisingly different after just dropping that 1/2-3/4". When I first lifted the 100 (Ironman TBs, springs, shocks), my first thought was "Well &$#*. No more comfortably Land Cruiser. I've got a damn truck now". Dropping the nose down that little bit returned it to that awesome ride we love about these things.
This is the before and after - day 1 with the lift vs "after" dialing it down. The bumper and winch were added after dialing it down, and yielded less than a 1/4" drop.
The ride was surprisingly different after just dropping that 1/2-3/4". When I first lifted the 100 (Ironman TBs, springs, shocks), my first thought was "Well &$#*. No more comfortably Land Cruiser. I've got a damn truck now". Dropping the nose down that little bit returned it to that awesome ride we love about these things.
This is the before and after - day 1 with the lift vs "after" dialing it down. The bumper and winch were added after dialing it down, and yielded less than a 1/4" drop.
Manhattan, I know every rig is different but how many full turns on the tb's do you recall it took. Granted I'll be measuring as well, just curious.
@tchart, I wish I could remember how many turns I took out. I do remember spending a while doing it - jacked the truck, took a couple turns out, drop the truck, drove around the block (turning hard side to side, on and off the brakes hard), back to the driveway, take a measurement, repeat. If I were to guess... I'd say it was 4 turns. But, I think your gut is spot on - just ignore my (and others') findings and take your time (and measurements). Post your results - the pics at least
Thanks for the advice. I took the tires, wheels and old tb's out the back of it. Front end already feels better but still need to lower it a bit. Alignment scheduled for Monday. Had a few beers and ordered new front seat covers from Landcruiserheaven last night.......didnt mean to do that yet. Bought this car for 8k sight unseen off ebay. Almost have another 8k into her already! 133k miles
I doubt you're going to see much (any) settling. No harm in putting a few miles/days on it though.
The ride was surprisingly different after just dropping that 1/2-3/4". When I first lifted the 100 (Ironman TBs, springs, shocks), my first thought was "Well &$#*. No more comfortably Land Cruiser. I've got a damn truck now". Dropping the nose down that little bit returned it to that awesome ride we love about these things.
This is the before and after - day 1 with the lift vs "after" dialing it down. The bumper and winch were added after dialing it down, and yielded less than a 1/4" drop.
Has anyone ever used a digital level to convert the rake (1/2" - 3/4") to a degree value?
I've got a really nice digital level that could pull a reading off the bottom of the framerail, or off the body side mouldings.
I'm guessing it's probably in the 2 - 3 degree range???
-G
I doubt you're going to see much (any) settling. No harm in putting a few miles/days on it though.
The ride was surprisingly different after just dropping that 1/2-3/4". When I first lifted the 100 (Ironman TBs, springs, shocks), my first thought was "Well &$#*. No more comfortably Land Cruiser. I've got a damn truck now". Dropping the nose down that little bit returned it to that awesome ride we love about these things.
This is the before and after - day 1 with the lift vs "after" dialing it down. The bumper and winch were added after dialing it down, and yielded less than a 1/4" drop.
Any chance you'll post your measurements from fender to the center of the hub front and rear?
Thats a good digital tool for measuring your drive line operating angles output flange- driveshaft- pinion. But for rake adjustments you'd get better measurement conformity to consistently measure the difference between front & rear using top edge of the wheel/rim to the fender lip. 1" seems to be a good starting point. Hub center measuring is not as precise but many use it here and it works too.
So if rear is 11" (top of rim to the fender lip), the front should be set to 10" (top if rim to the fender lip). I run about 1.5" difference between front & rear. Tip: If you don't have adjustable upper control arms, you can gain a tad bit of positive caster back by dropping the front end a little more.
I suspect the number of turns required for height gained or lost varies between brand of TB's based on diameter, and spring rate. With the Ironman TB's on my truck with each full turn of the adjustment bolt will yield about 5mm after settling ( 3 turns is just a bit more than 1/2"). You don't need to drive it a week to wait for the front end to settle, just around the block, then re-measure, & adjust some more if necessary.
We experienced similar issues on my son's vehicle, and no doubt that dropping the front end, just a little, helped tremendously.
Here on Mud, I often see "rake" being described as the issue.
I know lifting the front end can reduce caster, (making the steering light) and lack of "droop" can make a vehicle ride like crap. I also know that if I load my son's LC with (rear) cargo until it sits level, I don't seem to have issues with light steering or harsh ride.
Is the "rake"really the issue, or is it just having the front end too high?
So I love the level look and am hoping the it takes care of itself which is not going to happen. Ill be lowering the front and have no problems taking measurements......quick question...... i know it would be best to lower then do the alignment, but would it really effect it to have the alignment done, get the toe out as far as possible, then adjust the t bars? Its not going to get the alignment in spec anyways without aftermarket arms, if anything i would think after lowering the front it would put it more in spec that anything? Thoughts? If that makes sense....
